[electricjay]

SO last year, I replaced the thermostat in my R/T, and since I had to have the plenum off, I replaced the plugs and coil packs. Put everything back together and it ran like crap. Hard misses, stalling at idle, just garbage. In warmer weather, it would run like it was missing on half the cylinders. When it would stall, the transmission would take forever to engage, then it engaged HARD. Most of the time, shutting it down and letting it sit for a few minutes fixed everything for a few days. Then it'd start that crap again.

I replaced the cheap coil packs and plugs with better ones and platinum plugs, had no further issues except twice; I lost all acceleration power on the freeway until I shut it off and let it sit for about 30 seconds, then no more issues. It had a slight undervolting problem until I tightened up the positive battery cable, then it ran like a champ.
Until a few days ago.
Driving to the next town over (12 or so miles) was fine, but coming back I felt a good hard "miss," like the motor just shut off and came back on for a half second. Then the battery light came on. Pulled over and lifted the hood to see if I still had a serpentine belt, everything was fine. Got back on the road, and Every. Single. Dash. Light came on. The truck was running so rough, I felt like I was on a tractor. CEL was blinking, tachometer was bouncing between 0 and 3000.
Got it home, but it stalled at every stop, and the transmission did it's trick again.

Let it sit overnight and started it up. No change. Checked the battery and alternator, both good. Checked the battery connections, all tight. Checked the battery connection to the TIPM, solid. I can hear a ground loop through the stereo speakers.
Pulled codes this morning, and here's what I have:

ENGINE
P0456: EES leak (very small leak detected)
P0300: Random/multiple cylinder misfire (I have two of these codes come up)
P0303: Cylinder 3 misfire (two of these as well)
P0430: Catalyst system efficiency below threshold Bank 2 (two of these as well)
P0113: Intake air temperature sensor 1 circuit high
U0141: Lost communication with Body Control Module A
P0339: Crankshaft Position Sensor A connection intermittent

A/T
U0002: High Speed CAN communication Bus Performance

Here's a video of the dash lights and such: Link

Thanks for reading my novel. I cannot believe that all these systems went to crap just because I replaced my plugs/coil packs.

 

[2ndgen]

Have you had the battery tested?
Faulty power can cause crazy symptoms.
I had a battery with just one bad cell--usually ran okay, but then one day the dash went batsh*t crazy and nothing worked.

 

[electricjay]

Have you had the battery tested?
Faulty power can cause crazy symptoms.
I had a battery with just one bad cell--usually ran okay, but then one day the dash went batsh*t crazy and nothing worked.

The battery is barely a year old, and it shows fully charged on the voltmeter, even under a load.

 

[2ndgen]

The battery is barely a year old, and it shows fully charged on the voltmeter, even under a load.

I'd still take it in and get a thorough test at the parts store--at least rule it out. Wouldn't be the first time a battery failed early. Ground zero is clean power--no point in chasing anything else until you're 100% sure. 2nd would be all the ground straps.

 

[Nitrogen]

when all the dash lights come on like that it's normaly an issue with the TIPM,

 

[electricjay]

when all the dash lights come on like that it's normaly an issue with the TIPM,

I sincerely hope not.

 

[Nitrogen]

sorry but true,
i would certainly start by putting the original coil packs back on, just to rule out the new coils been bad,
with the engine running look for a bad electrical connection, wiggle the battery cables and wiring harness (you might get lucky),
under the battery tray on the chassis there is a large ground point, it's very common this gets corroded, mine was so badly corroded i had to drill out a new one and re-crimp all the ground wires,