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Hope this helps.
Head layout red O = cylinder.
Bolts 1 through 8 require clean oil added to threads.
* requires sealant added to threads.
Left bank shown, right bank is a mirror image.

Head bolts; Torque in sequence 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8, 9*,10*,11*,12*
Torque using the following steps:
First step; torque bolts 1-8, to 20 ft. lbs.
Double check all bolts 1-8 are still at 20 ft. lbs.
Torque bolts 9-12 to 10 ft. lbs.
Second step; rotate bolts 1-8, 90°.
Third step; rotate bolts 1-8, 90° again. Torque bolts 9-12 to 19 ft. lbs.

-----11*----9*-----10**
,,,
|¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯|
7..|_______.| 5----12*
,,,|___O__._|
3..|______...| 1
,,,|___O__._|
2..|_______.| 4
,,,|___O__._|
6..|________| 8
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hope this helps.
Head layout red O = cylinder.
Bolts 1 through 8 require clean oil added to threads.
* requires sealant added to threads.
Left bank shown, right bank is a mirror image.

Head bolts; Torque in sequence 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8, 9*,10*,11*,12*
Torque using the following steps:
First step; torque bolts 1-8, to 20 ft. lbs.
Double check all bolts 1-8 are still at 20 ft. lbs.
Torque bolts 9-12 to 10 ft. lbs.
Second step; rotate bolts 1-8, 90°.
Third step; rotate bolts 1-8, 90° again. Torque bolts 9-12 to 19 ft. lbs.

-----11*----9*-----10**
,,,
|¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯|
7..|_______.| 5----12*
,,,|___O__._|
3..|______...| 1
,,,|___O__._|
2..|_______.| 4
,,,|___O__._|
6..|________| 8
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
07Lifted,4X4,6sp-man,3.7L
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30,638 Posts
yes that really helps thank so much. Do you have the intake and exhaust specs also?
Intake, Torque in sequence 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8 to 105 in. lbs.
Right front to rear. 5,1,3,7
Left front to rear. 6,2,4,8

Exhaust; If the studs came out when removing, you need to replace the studs with new. You will need to add sealer on the coarse threads of the new studs.
Start at the center arm and working out. Torque to 18 ft. lbs.
Exhaust pipe to manifold 25 ft. lbs.
Both sides are the same.
 
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Seeing good info in this thread, Thanks

Here's my story then the question.

I was told that after a leak down test that I had bad cylinder head gaskets. Pulled the heads and gaskets looked fine Also noticed that cylinder 3 exhaust valve wasn't moving and sealing like it should which is the same cylinder that is giving an engine code. Not prepared to replace the left head I put the engine back together with new gaskets and new head bolts. during the torque sequence (20lbs, check 20lbs, 90deg, then another 90deg), specifically during the second sequence of 90deg turns, a couple of bolts (at about an 1/8 turn) all of sudden got easier to turn; I would say a reduction of about 40lbs of effort to turn the bolt. All other bolts maintained a consistent level of torqueing effort to complete the last 90degs. Have you experienced such a thing? Am I Screwed? Did I just over stretch the bolt or possibly strip threads? I've pulled and installed a few heads in my home garage mechanics carrier but I've never experienced this before. I since have started the engine and it started right up; runs the same as it did before and still getting the cylinder 3 engine code. I have not run the engine since, trying to decide what to do next. Hoping to just replace head bolts and left cylinder head.

Would appreciate any and all comments and feedback
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
07Lifted,4X4,6sp-man,3.7L
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30,638 Posts
Did you oil the threads as instructed above?
When was the last time your torque wrench was calibrated (assuming you used a clicking type)?
Only way to know what happened for sure is to pull the head again, and hope all the bolts come out.
 

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Unfortunate for me, no on both accounts. Perhaps a costly rookie mistake.
After many phone calls and talking to some local Auto Machine Shops, they agree with you in that the only way to really know is to pull the bolts out. I have to replace the left head anyway so I will start there. One shop thinks I may have gotten lucky in that I bought cheep after market bolts and they may have stretched prematurely. I have my fingers crossed. I'll post my findings in a few days.
 

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I am going to be doing head gaskets and timing chain replacement. This will be on a 2010 Dodge Nitro 3.7 4x4. Are the above torque specs the same for this year? I am new to this as well. What is the preferred sealant for the head bolts. Does anyone know of a site I could get all the torque specs? Head bolts, exhaust manifold, front timing cover, ect?
Any feedback will be greatly appreciated. I have read many articles and forums on this make, model and job. The main thing that I have read about is to be 100% with the timing and take your time with the exhaust manifold bolts #soakinPB. Thanks again.
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
07Lifted,4X4,6sp-man,3.7L
Joined
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30,638 Posts
I am going to be doing head gaskets and timing chain replacement. This will be on a 2010 Dodge Nitro 3.7 4x4. Are the above torque specs the same for this year? I am new to this as well. What is the preferred sealant for the head bolts. Does anyone know of a site I could get all the torque specs? Head bolts, exhaust manifold, front timing cover, ect?
Any feedback will be greatly appreciated. I have read many articles and forums on this make, model and job. The main thing that I have read about is to be 100% with the timing and take your time with the exhaust manifold bolts #soakinPB. Thanks again.
My manuals are all 2007-08 manuals. Can't say for 100% sure all are identical. But not sure why they would change.
I bought the book versions(4 books) of the OEM manual from E-bay(ones used by Dodge service techs), and the OEM Cd from Dodge.
Beware of the E-bay knockoffs, many are incomplete and have pretty major errors in them.
 
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My manuals are all 2007-08 manuals. Can't say for 100% sure all are identical. But not sure why they would change.
I bought the book versions(4 books) of the OEM manual from E-bay(ones used by Dodge service techs), and the OEM Cd from Dodge.
Beware of the E-bay knockoffs, many are incomplete and have pretty major errors in them.
Thank you
 
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