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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So about a year ago I started noticing a couple of problems coinciding with my 07 SXT.

I noticed that for at least 3 cranks in a row my 4WD light will come on during crank and stay on for a solid 10 seconds or so. It will then turn off and things appear normal. After those 3 trips I'll get lucky for anywhere between 5 and 10 trips before the cycle starts all over again.

About the same time I noticed an odd rumble that I can feel under the driver seat and through my floorboard under my feet. It's subtle but as I reach highway speeds I feel like the old girl has a lot more vibration than she should.

I had the front wheel bearing and hub assemblies for both sides, the driver brake caliper (it was found to be seized up during the bearing swap), and the front drive shaft replaced last year. The bearings were shot when they pulled them and the front driveshaft had way too much play in it.

What would cause my 4WD light to come on and then go off like that? I've engaged and disengaged and everything sounds like it's working as it should.

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
07Lifted,4X4,6sp-man,3.7L
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Check the CV boot at the transfer case.
My 4x4 light will also stay on for 5+/- seconds after the rig starts. It's just doing a self test. But during this time I feel nothing.
You may want to check the transfer case fluid level.
 

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The 4wd switch. Gets detected when you start. Disconnecting this switch will show you being in 4wd.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well, the company is honoring their limited lifetime warranty. Part should arrive Monday. How safe/unsafe is it drive with the old girl like this for the time being?

Also does anyone have access to a repair guide for changing the front driveshaft and swapping the fluid in the transfer case?

A lot of folks, family and close friends included, have been getting screwed over by the only 2 reputable shops in the area. A trip to the dealership is out of the question as I'm still waiting on them to fix damages sustained to my vehicle following 3 botched heater core replacements since the very end of last year.

Basically I don't trust anyone to work on my rig anymore unless it's way out of my element.
 

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Well, the company is honoring their limited lifetime warranty. Part should arrive Monday. How safe/unsafe is it drive with the old girl like this for the time being?

Also does anyone have access to a repair guide for changing the front driveshaft and swapping the fluid in the transfer case?

A lot of folks, family and close friends included, have been getting screwed over by the only 2 reputable shops in the area. A trip to the dealership is out of the question as I'm still waiting on them to fix damages sustained to my vehicle following 3 botched heater core replacements since the very end of last year.

Basically I don't trust anyone to work on my rig anymore unless it's way out of my element.
"can you keep driving"
if there is grease inside the rubber boot and around the joint then it's going to get lubrication (good), BUT if you get any dirt inside whist driving the joint will not last very long.
looking at you pic the joint looks pretty dry ?
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
At this point I'm pretty sure it's bare metal in the joint. When I'm on the highway every now and then I'll hit a bump on hill and I get a sensation that feels like there's something binding up that shouldn't be. Seeing as how the part won't be here til Monday I'll need to restrict the driving to a mininum.
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
07Lifted,4X4,6sp-man,3.7L
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Drop the shaft unless you "need" 4wd. You can drive it without it in there.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
You know I'd wondered that for a while now. How difficult is it to remove? Also will the exposed attachment points be susceptible to damage in the mean time?
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
07Lifted,4X4,6sp-man,3.7L
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MOPAR AFT+4-- Plugs, drain/fill 9 - 11 Ft. Lbs. Remove fill plug and add till it just drips out.
Locations; https://www.nitroforumz.com/threads/updated-know-your-nitro-part-1-and-now-part-2.9073 Post 18

CV joint retainers and bolts, 22 ft. lbs.
Axle flange bolts, 80 ft. lbs
Easier if in neutral so you can rotate shaft to gain access to all bolts. Just don't get run over! :eek:

Q, Not really, both sides are sealed and you can't go wheelin... ;)
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Welp looks like the transfer case in is coming undone pretty easily but I'm running into an issue where I cannot get the bolts taken out of the front end, the driveshaft keeps moving while I try to take it off. The car is off and in park, with the parking brake on set up on ramps. Suggestions?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Nvm, found out a bit of elbow grease, a well placed socket with a wind chime slid over it, and a strategically wedged pry bar did the trick.

Sadly I had to move the truck quite a few times and wound up getting impatient and burnt myself on the exhaust adjacent to it.

Found a ring of grease thrown on the heat shield so I highly doubt she's in a position to be driven. Gonna see about fishing it out in the morning giving it time enough to cool down.

Any trick to fishing it out of the compartment it's so neatly wedged into?
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
07Lifted,4X4,6sp-man,3.7L
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Glad you got it loose.
No real trick, just wiggle it out. If you need a little extra room, you can try jacking up just the drivers side on the frame to allow the axle/tire to drop a little lower.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Update - had to take out the O2 sensor and the driveshaft managed to come out fairly easily.

After looking over the problem end it looks like the driveshaft could have been too short by an inch or so. Either that or it was installed and the bolts were torqued improperly.

I'm getting an exact replacement for the shaft so I'm wondering if I should look into a spacer for the replacement. When I went to pull the end of the shaft out of the transfer case it looks like the cv joint is overstretched.

The boot was completely torn. When I got it out it looked like it was in a permanently stretched state and there was way too much play in the joint.

Suggestions?
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
07Lifted,4X4,6sp-man,3.7L
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Hum, interesting. I'd be curious to see what the new one looks like.
You should not need a spacer if it is designed for the Nitro.
What was the brand, part # of the one you have/getting?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I have never had a problem with 1Aauto and part matching OEM specs, so it should be " no shim required " .
What products have you purchased for your rig from 1AAuto? I've been looking at getting quite a few things from there but I've gotten hesitant seeing how cheap most of their products are compared to nearly every other retailer.
 

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brakes and rotors set, water pump, passenger front caliper. for my nitro. brakes and rotors set for my brothers jeep liberty and 1 other part for his ( I can't remember it was 4 years ago )
 
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