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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, looking for some assistance on a problem with my 3.7 L 08 Nitro. I only experience this problem in the cold, never happens during the summer. The blower motor will run for maybe 5-10 minutes and then completely shut off, no matter which fan speed is selected. After maybe 20 minutes it sometimes will briefly turn back on but most of the times it doesn't. I replaced the blower motor and blower motor resistor. The blower motor did have a squeal to it so I was planning on replacing it anyways, but that did not correct the issue. I swapped a known good HVAC temperature control module from another vehicle and the issue did not go away, so I know that the blower motor switch is not the issue. Anyone else experience this problem before or know where to look from here? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
 

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hi Mhass56,
next step would be to test the Positive and Ground wires at the blower motor,
when the motor has stopped working is the time to test, you can use a 12v test light or a multimeter, there are 2 wires going to the blower motor
pin 1: DK BLU/GRY is Ground (goes to resistor pack)
pin 2: GK BLU is 12v Positive (no fuse, direct feed from TIPM)

ignition switch ON
blower motor ON high speed
check pin 1 has a good Ground and check pin 2 has a good 12v Positive, if the ground and the 12v+ are good then its the blower motor or the blower motor connector that is faulty,
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok so I waited for the blower motor to shut off before I tested it. I have ground, but I do not have 12 volts on the blue power wire at the blower motor connector. So it appears that either I have a damaged supply wire or a bad TIPM. My next train of thought was to load test that wire from the blower motor connector to the TIPM to see if the problem is in the wire itself. Is there a fuse or relay I can remove to access the other end of the wire?
 

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No fuse or relay, and just to complicate things Dodge used the same Dark Blue wire in several other circuits,
at your own risk you could try and supply a direct 12v+ to the Dark Blue wire see if the heater powers on,
if you are not 100% sure then don't risk causing any damage, just get back and we can find another way around this,
 
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