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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Greetings! My lovely 2010 Nitro had the A/C blower replaced about 2 months ago, and now it seems the diverter wants to only go to the floor or the defrost - I live in Florida and, well, it is summer - and not getting air circulation at face level is as good as no a/c at all! Is there some DIY solution for this, or is this another $$$ repair? If given the choice, I'd choose to permanently put the vent on face level!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Do you hear any movement when you turn the dial to the different fan positions?

I do hear a change when switching positions - like it is muted when I switch to the face level position, then the rush of air when I switch to floor/face, floor only and defrost positions.

Its the first position of the dial, and the air is blowing (I can hear it) but it is not getting out - the diverter isn't opening to the face level vents but it closes to the floor vents (and defrost vents). Even in the combo position, only the floor vents are blowing.
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
07Lifted,4X4,6sp-man,3.7L
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There is a single actuator which controls the def, and vent doors. It is possible the vent part simply came out of the cam. But the only way to tell is to take the cover off the drivers side of the HVAC housing.
I have not attempted to do this in my rig, so I can not tell you if it can be done with the HVAC housing installed.
If it simply came loose then it is an easy fix. But if it broke, depending on where it broke, Externally; replace the broken cam/gear, Internally; the whole HVAC housing will have to come out.
Also if something got jammed inside, causing the vent cam to come loose, again you may have to remove the HVAC housing to get whatever it is out.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Update - Mode Door?

I literally crawled underneath the steering column and took about 20 pix before I finally got the angle focus and flash right, but the result is attached: Product Auto part Engine Fuel line Metal


The servo/motor appears to work fine - I see it rotate but the white plastic arm in the photo appears to be disconnected/broken. If I push on it while in the face level mode air comes out face level. I know darn well a mechanic is going to charge me an arm and a leg to dismantle to get at this! I would give my eye-teeth to have a diagram of what this sucker is supposed to be attached to/with so that I can do a decent rigging!

I am hopeful at least now that I can shove something to hold it in place temporarily and keep the knob in the one position so I don't do even more damage...
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
07Lifted,4X4,6sp-man,3.7L
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This is very good news! At least it is not internal. :smileup:
As far as a diagram... Good question. The SM only shows a general view from the outside and does not show how panel door gear works/ is connected.
Once the actuators and outside plastic covers are removed the SM simply states to Remove the defrost door lever and gear assembly, mode door cam, panel door gear, blend door gear, blend door lever and the blend door cam from the driver side of the housing.
Nothing said about any other connectors, clips, or screws holding it in.
The problem will be whether the plastic covers can be removed without taking the HVAC unit out of the rig. It is pretty tight under there as you know...
 

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it just clips back into its housing, the problem is trying to locate the hole when you can't see it, laying on your back. however it may be worn and thats why it came out in the first place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Up and running!

I was a little nervous to apply much pressure to the white arm piece, but it seemed that it should seat under the motor/wheel. My neighbor is a mechanic and got under there and popped it back in. PRESTO! I have working air flow at face level again. Yes, it may be wear that popped it out, but I know what to do now!

Thanks for the support gang!:Racing:
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
07Lifted,4X4,6sp-man,3.7L
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Yeah! glad you were able to get it working again!
Thanks for getting back to us with the fix. :rep:
 

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just had the same problem ,went back to dealer where i just bought the truck used and they are looking into it. Called dodge dealer about this and they told me that the whole air box may have to be replaced because inside the box could be causing the gears to break,also 6-8 labor for this repair ,very upset with this news ,poor design
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Egads - yes, the pin is popping out on a daily basis now. Over the winter, I had no issues whatsoever and the arm stayed in place. Now I can hear a loud "POP" emanating from my dash board - and it is NOT the pin popping out of place, it is something else related. I put the arm back in place, sat in the driver's seat with the key out of the ignition and heard the "POP" a few minutes later. Then I turned the car on and sure enough, the arm slid out of place. What is under so much pressure? I sure wish I could get a diagram of this stupid thing so I could understand what is going on!

I can pop the arm back in place in under 30 seconds now from shear habit, but daily is just ridiculous, and the air is not that cold! I suspect there is a secondary issue at hand.

I am not in a position to throw money unchecked at the dealership, and frankly I'm a bit suspicious that when they fixed the blower, they didn't put it back together properly, resulting in my current problem. But I can't seem to locate a service manual for this model year...any tips on finding one?
 

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I see this post is from a while back but I was curious as to whether or not there was ever a solution to your issue? Currently on my nitro, the white arm piece is broken. It was constantly popping out of place and I was able to get it back in with no issue until one day it snapped in half when it popped out. So my question is this: is there a way to replace the arm without replacing the entire module? And if so, where would I go about searching for the white arm piece? I appreciate any help in advance! Thank you
 

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Sorry Amorris0013 the parts list only shows a complete heater housing which contains the new links, it costs around $150-$200.
hopefully someone else knows where you can get the links from.
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
07Lifted,4X4,6sp-man,3.7L
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Not sure if the actuator mounting plate comes with them. Maybe a dealer can tell you.
Part # 68004034AA, but there is another part #. Not sure exactly which one you would need. Again a dealer can tell you...
Other option would be a junk yard.
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
07Lifted,4X4,6sp-man,3.7L
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Disconnect the Neg(-) battery cable and isolate it.

I have not had mine apart. That being said;
The 2 actuators on the drivers side, are held in place with 2 screws each, and they each have a wire plug you have to remove.
So NOT mix up which actuator goes where! They have to be installed in the same location and all components have to be in exactly the same configuration as when they came apart!

The actuator mounting bracket has three screws holding it to the HVAC housing.
Take lots of Pics when taking things apart, so you will have a reference to use to get things back exactly as they were.
From this point you are on your own. The SM does not have any instructions for removing any of the individual components within the actuator mounting bracket.

After everything is back together, then, and only then, reconnect the Neg(-) battery cable.
 
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