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Khaki Nitro Nut
07Lifted,4X4,6sp-man,3.7L
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I appreciate all the words of wisdom. I've been having the same problem. Only I'm just getting air out of the defrost vents
Have you looked at post 6 & 9 above? Have you checked it on your rig?
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
07Lifted,4X4,6sp-man,3.7L
Joined
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30,657 Posts
Hi everyone,

Having the same issue on my sons 2008 Nitro... your posts will help me resolve this, Hopefully.

With my regards
Welcome to the forum @Stephan. When you have a chance, head over to the Newbie Section and say "Hi".
Tell us a little about yourself and your ride.
That way we can welcome you all proper like.

Good to hear you have found useful info here on the forum! Keep us posted on the outcome.
 

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Greetings! My lovely 2010 Nitro had the A/C blower replaced about 2 months ago, and now it seems the diverter wants to only go to the floor or the defrost - I live in Florida and, well, it is summer - and not getting air circulation at face level is as good as no a/c at all! Is there some DIY solution for this, or is this another $$$ repair? If given the choice, I'd choose to permanently put the vent on face level!!
Diverter door has a habit of not working. First check plug connection at servo motor located under dash next to steering column on right side. Verify good contact. If motor is not rotating pinion
Buy new one on Amazon website for about $35.00. Its output shaft is complete with pinion. Male and female shaft flats line up at assembly. Third screw is difficult to reach but other two do just fine to hold in position.
 

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Up and running!

I was a little nervous to apply much pressure to the white arm piece, but it seemed that it should seat under the motor/wheel. My neighbor is a mechanic and got under there and popped it back in. PRESTO! I have working air flow at face level again. Yes, it may be wear that popped it out, but I know what to do now!

Thanks for the support gang!:Racing:
I have the same issue. It's really hard to see exactly where the white arm piece snaps together. Is it best to be snapped together with the mode selector set to defrost, heat or some other position?
If I could see the backside of the actuator I would probably be able to see where the two parts mate together. I think you have to be a contortionist to get to this thing.
 

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Up and running!

I was a little nervous to apply much pressure to the white arm piece, but it seemed that it should seat under the motor/wheel. My neighbor is a mechanic and got under there and popped it back in. PRESTO! I have working air flow at face level again. Yes, it may be wear that popped it out, but I know what to do now!

Thanks for the support gang!:Racing:
How did you get access to pop it back in without removing the actuator and bracket it mounts to?
 

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dont remove the actuator, unless you are confident you can reinstall it back in the exact same position, if its not installed in its original position then you have to get the actuator recalibrated, also runs the risk of damaging some of the teeth on the plastic gears, some members have been lucky enough to mark the actuator and get it back in the exact same position, an some members have some how popped it back on, i personaly have never dealt with this but know it can be very difficult
 

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dont remove the actuator, unless you are confident you can reinstall it back in the exact same position, if its not installed in its original position then you have to get the actuator recalibrated, also runs the risk of damaging some of the teeth on the plastic gears, some members have been lucky enough to mark the actuator and get it back in the exact same position, an some members have some how popped it back on, i personaly have never dealt with this but know it can be very difficult
Mounted to the side of the steering column under the dash, I see what I believe to be the transmission control module or gearbox controller. It has a label that says... "Siemons VDO p05150549aa 5wp20125aok".
If I can remove that out of my way I can probably get access to remove the actuators and actuators mounting plate. Are there any special precautions I should take when removing that other than disconnect the battery?
 

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workshop manual says disconnect Negative battery lead before working on any part of the electrics, ALL the electrics must be reconnected before you reconnect the battery lead, any module which needs special precautions ABS etc normaly has a bright warning label,
wiring diagram says transmission control module (nag1) is behind left side of dash,
 
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I managed to get this thing apart and get the mode door gear white lever thingy snapped back into place. Now it will only blow out the panel where as before it would only blow out the defrost or passenger side floor. Still no heat or AC either. I think this thing managed to throw it's self completely out of calibration. I did a heater core flush, that was fun (not). I think the heat issue I'm having is blend door related because bot inlet and outlet heater core hoses get hot to the touch after engine reaches operating temp. I'm going to rip back into this thing again tomorrow. There has got to be a way of getting this back to where it needs to be without a dealer (I hope). Any tips or advise would be much appreciated. Wish me luck!
 

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an advanced scan tool can recalibrate the blend doors dosn't have to be a main dealer,
i don't know if this will help But, but when the ignition is switched off the all the blend doors rest into the closed position,
 

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So, I ripped this apart again and inspected closer. All of the teeth on the doors and levers are fine. I can open and close the mode/blend doors by hand. They don't seem to be binding anywhere. Once everything is back together, It seems to heat a small amount better than before but nowhere it will need to be when hard winter comes. The mode doors will work on defrost and out of the panel registers which it did not before but no air to the floor. I wonder if a recalibration will fix that or if the mode cam needs to be manually repositioned somehow. I wish there was a way to recalibrate without special scan tools. I know you can do a trick on a 2010 RAM to recalibrate by pressing the fan control for 10 seconds twice in a row. I wonder if there is some sort of trick like that on the Nitro.
Good grief, this thing is a nightmare.
 

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Good question, i have a Autel Maxi Pro MP808TS (was 800€), which shows heater calibration option but i have never tried it,
however you need to check the scantool options before you buy, because there are different options for different countries,
although i would not advise anyone buying a scantool like this because, you can only get updates for the first 12 months then Autel asked me for 500€ a year for futher updates, its like i paid 300€ for a very basic tablet, and 500€ for an advanced app, all the big companies are doing the same, if you buy a vehicle newer than your scantool then it probably will not work unless you do an update, so not worth 800€ IMO,
everyone these days seems to be using a smartphone and obd app for alot less money, hopefully someone else will chime in with more info,
 

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Good question, i have a Autel Maxi Pro MP808TS (was 800€)
Wow, that thing costs nearly 1K!
I wonder if there is some sort of blue tooth gadget with iPhone app I could get.
I'm reluctant to have a local garage or dealer calibrate it for me because I have to ask myself the question "why did the cam and levers on the mode doors get jacked up to start with?".
It looks like everything is operating normally but I would hate to pay for a recalibration just to have the levers go sideways on me again.
 

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So, I took my Nitro to a local shop that has a scan tool.
The guy performed what he called an actuator relearn to calibrate my HVAC blend door and mode door actuators.
He said the scan tool indicates the actuators are in the correct position matching the position of the dash controls when changing from hot to cold in all the different modes.
This did nothing to help my situation and I’m back where I started.

I still only get medium air flow thru defrost mode and panel mode, still no floor air flow and still medium to low heat output.
Seems to me something is going on inside the HVAC housing that may be causing a binding somehow.
Obviously something caused the mode door leaver to pop out of place from the mode door cam.
But then again, if there were a binding I would think I would hear abnormal noise from the actuator motors which I’m not.

When I had the actuators off I was able to turn the mode and blend doors by hand but not a easily as I thought I should be able to turn them.
Not sure how stout they are to turn when new.
Are they generally hard/medium or easy to turn by hand?
Is there anything I can do with these things to free them up to turn more easily just short of pulling the HVAC housing?

I think I may have to just bite the bullet and replace the entire HVAC housing.
As we know, that’s a big job that requires a dash and console removal/reinstall procedure.
Given the intensive labor involved in that I ask myself if I should go ahead and replace the heater core at the same time?
I also have an AC refrigerant leak in the system somewhere because I’ve had to add a can of refrigerant every summer for the past 3 years.
So I figure I might as well replace the AC evaporator while I’m in there.
And If I’m going to all that work, might as well replace the coolant thermostat and flush the entire system too.
Throw in an oil change and a car wash and hopefully I'll be done.

I have a feeling this is going to cost me big bucks at a dealer.
Any tips or suggestions appreciated.
When I fix this and I will, I will post an update.
 
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