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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Guys,

weird issue kicked off today whilst driving through a safari park. Due to the animals considering us humans as lunch we had to keep the windows shut. So as it was a warm day I turned the aircon on only to find it blowing warm air. No matter what I did with the controls I could not turn off the heat. Ultimately we had to turn off the fan as we were being cooked, and cracked the windows to get some ventilation.

I can understand the aircon maybe ceasing to function, what I cannot understand is why with the temperature dial set to cold I was getting heat.

anyone have any ideas what the issue might be?
 

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the "always getting heat" issue,
is because the Nitro's heater core constantly has engine coolant flowing through it, when you switch the heater to cold, the heater blend doors (flaps) switch direction and the external cold air flows directly into the cabin, and bypasses the hot heater core,
my guess would be that the connection between the blend door and the blend door actuator has somehow seperated and the blend door is not operating (a few members have had this issue),
there is a knack to reconnecting everything, but sorry i'm not exactly sure what it is, maybe best to wait for some more info before you try and reconnect it, because it can end up misaligned, then the blend doors will need to be calibrated ,

if there is a plus side to this, then your A/C is probably OK,
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ah that makes sense, I thought I was going nuts for a minute. I’ve watched a few YouTube vids for the Jeep Liberty KK which is pretty much the same as the Nitro.

I’ll add this to the ever expanding list of jobs, thankfully the ‘old fella’ is no longer my daily ride.

thanks for your help Nitrogen 👍
 
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Khaki Nitro Nut
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Usually the little white cam fell off the blend door connection. If it is not broken, then you should be able to press it back on.
See this thread.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Thanks Scar0, I remember looking at this years ago and lying upside down in the footwell...time to throw my out back again then:(.

I also suspect the aircon charge may need redoing as it's performance has fallen off over the past couple of years. I've read somewhere it should be checked every year or so. Mine was recharged about 5 years ago so well overdue.

So that's two jobs on the HVAC now on the list; the blender door operation and the recharge. The list sure isn't getting any shorter, when one job gets done 2 new ones pop up...mind you the same can be said for me when one ache is resolved two new aches pop up...I guess the Nitro and myself have synchronised (real togetherness 🥰)!

Wish I could say the same about the Jag E Pace we don't connect, it's just a boring sanitised car. It hasn't moved off the driveway for the past 6 months due to Covid lockdown, which makes it one of the most fuel efficient vehicles I've ever owned (6 months/gallon 🤣).
 
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Discussion Starter #6
Aircon test gauge arrived in the post today, connected it to the test/charge point on the low pressure side and ran engine with aircon on.

the gauge read as 20psi and well below the “good” shaded area on the gauge. This shaded area is generic, does anyone know what the reading should be?

I’m also assuming that R134a should be used to top up?
 
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i don't realy know anything about A/C, maybe it about time i learnt, our motorhome does'n't seem to blow very cold, and the local garage charges 90€ to recharge it, any chance you could post a link to the A/C test kit you bought,
 
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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Yeah sure:
Latinaric R134a Air Conditioning Refrigerant Charging Measuring Hose Recharge Kit With Gauge: Amazon.co.uk: Car & Motorbike

Hope the link works!

the push connector fits onto the low pressure line valve by removing the dust cap. Make sure the end with the turn screw is closed fully otherwise you’ll lose refrigerant from your system. Once connected, I ran the engine with the AC turned to max and fan fully on, I also put it in recirc mode.

once it stabilised the gauge gave me a reading of 20psi which apparently is well below the 33-38psi good working range.

the Nitro full charge is 18 ounces (510 grams). Top up cans of R134a vary wildly in price but the one I’m aiming to buy is 453G costing £19.99 off eBay.

I haven’t yet worked out what charge I need to add but if go by the guide I’ve seen suggesting 33-38psi I’ll judge it by this.

if there are no other problems I should notice a cool air improvement. I only tested the pressure quickly today, but wasn’t sure I heard the compressor engaging. I’ll be doing a more thorough job tomorrow and let you know what I find.

the other end of the test line connects to the recharge can by screwing on, but this doesn’t need connecting just to test the pressure
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Ran the truck up to normal operating temperature turned on the AC, recirc and fan left doors open to prevent cycling...and the compressor did not engage at all. Stood there for 20 minutes, nothing nada.

so this could be due to insufficient refrigerant, but other issues might be present.

worth spending £20 to recharge DIY, and then see what happens ☹
 
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Discussion Starter #10
Just realised I don’t think I can add refrigerant unless the compressor is running...anyone know if this is correct, or have got this wrong?
 
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Engine running, yes. Compressor will not turn on without adequate charge.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Just had a look for the evap AC probe, can’t see how this can slide out as it’s tight up against the bottom glove box cross member. Any ideas whether this can be removed and how?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Here’s the latest update.

After crawling in under the dash I found the evap temp probe (all opposite due to RHD). Couldn’t see a way of pulling the probe out due to the dash cross member being hard up against it. Anyhow, after spending more time under the hood, and playing around with the electrical connections to the sensors, pcm, TIPM and compressor the clutch is now engaging (dodgy dodge electrics yet again).

now the compressor clutch has engaged I test the low side pressure and after running up to operating temp with ac full on in recirc mode the ac pressure stabilised at 10psi when it should be between 33-38psi. Quit clear the system needs a recharge and possible leak seal. I don’t have the means of pulling a vacuum.

so to me everything that should working is doing just that, I may have leaks or it could that I haven’t had the ac serviced for about 5 years and just need a recharge.

with leak seal and a recharge R-134a can costing the same as a local ac specialist to do the job properly. I’ll be booking it in on Monday as DIY is false economy.

I’ll keep you posted on what happens!
 
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interested in what type of dodgy electric issue you came across ?,
i have only come across a badly corroded ground cable (really bad) on the inner chassis leg under the left headlight.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Generally due to the ageing of the harnesses and effects of corrosion from road salts, most of my harnesses are in a poor state with corroded and/or poor connections. The issues I had with the ABS warning lights is a good example.

Unfortunately I didn't do one thing in isolation under the hood to enable my compressor clutch to 'wake up' and start doing it's job. I systematically went through every connector and wire cleaning up with a fine rotary wire brush, checking for breaks or stressed connectors. Once I completed this exercise the compressor clutch started working as it should.

As the harnesses have aged they have become rigid and less flexible, vibration and heat will be affecting literally everything electrical under the hood. I now have all of the split flexi conduit and TESA tape to completely renew all harness protection and will be doing this job when I get around to it. Hopefully this will alleviate some of the issues i'm getting. I also think the LPG installer caused me a few issues he located the presssure reducer and all the associated relays + control module tight up against the PCM and it's wiring connectors, vibration here won't be helping me.

I've also noticed the general condition of my engine bay and certain components like the alternator/AC compressor (alloy castings) have corroded far more in the past 12 than the rest of the 8 years i've owned it. Up to this point the engine bay had always been remaked upon by MOT inspectors as unusually like new. I have a suspicion the UK local authorities have been spreading more corrosive stuff on the roads in winter than in previous years. It's just odd how this has happened in such a short space of time.

Virtually all Nitro's in the UK were shipped in through Bristol docks during the financial collapse in 2007. They sat at the docks for 12 to 18months before being pushed out to the dealers on a '2 for 1' deal to get them moving. As I live in Bristol I drove by the storage compund many times looking at loads of lovely new Nitro's. As a consequence the amount of rust underneath to be found all our UK Nitro's is horrendous.

I'm pretty sure corrosion will be the death of much loved truck. I have several patches of rust bubbling growing below the painted surfaces on the roof and tailgate not due to any previous damage such as stone chips etc.

This may not help you Nitrogen, but if I do eventually nail down the exact gremlin i'll let you know (y)
 
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