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Discussion Starter #1
Well I spent quite a bit of time today trying to install this Alpine amp, and sub. Tried facing the cold to get it done completely, but ran into trouble as I figured I would. I had to use a LOC as you all know. I wanted to keep factory stereo for right now. But I think I might have to upgrade after wasting? all my time tonight... :shakehead:

I ran the power from the battery, grounded to a seat bolt in the rear, and then ran the remote from the 12v accessory plug in the rear cargo. I tapped into the drivers rear speaker which I found was the Gray/Light Green (+), Gray/Dark Green (-) for the LOC, connected the two wires from the LOC to the OEM speaker wires. Hooked the amp up and everything seemed to be working just fine.

And then.... Ran the sub speaker wires to my amp, plugged in my RCA's, turned the car on.......

Sub doesn't come on, no bass, no sound AT ALL, rear OEM speakers sound like they are getting somewhat amplified.

Please if anyone has any idea's let me know because I'm at a loss. I just don't understand why the f'n thing isn't working! Well enough about my rant for this sub/amp hookup for the night. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 

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The Univalent Radical
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Did you check the fuse for your rear power outlet? :confused:

Maybe instead of using the seat belt anchor for a ground (the seat belt moves), actually drill a hole in the body, scape the paint away to make sure that you are getting a good ground.

:cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well it's not actually the seat belt bolt. It's a a bolt/bracket that is coming from the rear seat underneath the the load n go. I'm getting good power/ground but why the sub isn't getting any power is beyond me. Checked all the fuses and they were good.
 

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The Univalent Radical
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What function is supposed to turn on the amp? Does it have a separate on/off switch, or is it designed to come on when you power up the radio? :confused:

I'm just trying to think this through for you.

:cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well yesterday I got the sub to start working. I manually had to strip the wires on the LOC and connect it to the speaker wires that were connected by "quick connect, t-tap fittings". I think those quick connect t-tap fitting is what the problem was. Don't think it was or still getting the direct contact it should be getting.

Sub sounds a bit off and a little distorted. I tired messing w/ all the settings and got it to where it sounds decent. I'm gonna mess with it a tad bit more and see if I can get it to sound like it should. Probably not gonna try to hard since I have that double din Pioneer and everything else on the way.

Thanks for your input and trying to help! :D
 

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Do u have any pic on where u tap into the wire and a luck to the convertor would be frat trying to install my subs as well on a stock headunit
 

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The Univalent Radical
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Well yesterday I got the sub to start working. I manually had to strip the wires on the LOC and connect it to the speaker wires that were connected by "quick connect, t-tap fittings". I think those quick connect t-tap fitting is what the problem was. Don't think it was or still getting the direct contact it should be getting.

Sub sounds a bit off and a little distorted. I tired messing w/ all the settings and got it to where it sounds decent. I'm gonna mess with it a tad bit more and see if I can get it to sound like it should. Probably not gonna try to hard since I have that double din Pioneer and everything else on the way.

Thanks for your input and trying to help! :D
I wish that I could have been more help. I do not like to use those quick connects because of issues like this. I always cut my wires, and solder everything together to know that I am getting a good connection.

Please post a picture(s) when you are done. I am working on another project now, and am thinking that maybe my sub will be next. But, my list is getting shorter! :D

:cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'm pretty sure the issue was and still is the difference in the speaker wires outside protective covering. The door speaker wire is a thin 16-18g while the speaker wire that came with my amp install kit is a thick 16-18g. When I used the quick connect fittings for the aftermarket speaker wire to the LOC I got very faint signal from my OEM speaker which caused the problems with my sub not working correctly. So when I cut the quick connects off, stripped the sheathing and wired the LOC to the aftermarket speaker wire with male/female connectors I received a much better connection.

This didn't solve my issue with the sub sounding half ass distorted or not being powered to the fullest because I still have quick connect fittings from my oem door speaker to the aftermarket wires. I would change this but seeing how I have my aftermarket double din coming I'm simply just going to remove the aftermarket speaker wires from my kick plate, and use straight rcas.

However today maybe I'll document some pics while removing those wires to make a "How to" thread for those who aren't familiar with where or how to tap into the stock oem speakers. After Wednesday I will let you guys know an update with my new system.

Cheers!
 

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The Univalent Radical
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Thank you for the update. I, for one, will patiently await your next post. :popc1::popc1::popc1::popc1:

:cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
It was an LOC from my local Advance Auto Parts store. I'm pretty sure it's made by Metra.

New updates, pics, and a new thread coming very soon. (Like tomorrow or Thursday!) :D
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks! I still have minor stuff to finish up with the install. Still have the mic for the bluetooth, and minor stuff with the sub/amp.

I've been slacking on the LOC thread, but hopefully tomorrow or this weekend!
 

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I like the face plate of your new head unit goes very well with the existing round controls.
:rep:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks man! Kind of why I went with this Pioneer head unit, that and the bluettoo thank Pandora controls. I love the hands free bluetooth and the mic for taking and making phone calls, it all works quite perfectly!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
EDIT**

Bluetooth and Pandora controls**

Wow phone went crazy with different words! There's no edit button??
 

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What function is supposed to turn on the amp? Does it have a separate on/off switch, or is it designed to come on when you power up the radio? :confused:

I'm just trying to think this through for you.

:cool:
Running high input to your amp. From you oem radio will never meet your expectations for you systm. It's real easy to make a good system sound like walmart. Your sub is most likely distorting and excurting to the max because your running ypur new amp with an amped high input line. But that all you got to work with. It's def worth not trying to hold onto. Oem deck
 
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