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Khaki Nitro Nut
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
As the title says, who wants a bigger throttle body on the cheap?
Well we all want HP gains, as well as possible MPG increases, don't we?
I looked at fastman as a possible option a long time back. But the cost of $265 was holding me back. Then I kinda forgot about it...
Then the other day I was reading another forum (KK Jeep) and came across a thread that did the same thing as the fastman, but used Dodge/Jeep OEM parts. When installed, they are saying they are getting about 2-3 more MPG and can definitely feel the power gains, Just like Johnny posted in the link above. Some of the guys there have had this Mod for a few months and consistently say they have better mileage when they keep their foot out of it vs stock. CAI and Muffler Mods are a must with this!
:thk:Hum, "Wonder if it would work on my Nitro?", I said to myself...
Then the search was on. It took about 2 weeks to locate a used TB on e-bay that I was willing to pay the price of ($75, free shipping).
It arrived today and tonight I installed it. Only time will tell if it will help my lousy MPG.

"Well,", you say, "What is it!?"
It it a TB from a 4.7L Dodge or Jeep.
The 3.7 OEM TB has a 2.75"(approx) opening.
The 4.7 OEM TB has a 3"(approx) opening.
Here are a couple of side by side Pics. 3.7 on right.



Now the Jeep guys said you have to install it upside down for it to fit.
But the only thing keeping it from installing right-side up, is the 2 alignment pins on the intake manifold. (If you install it upside-down the alignment pins are outside the TB mounting surface.) So what I did was to simply ream the holes on the 4.7 TB to match up with the pins on the intake. I did not want to Mod my intake by removing the pins...
In the following Pic, at the tip of the red lines, you can see the original alignment pin holes on the 4.7 TB.
The yellow line tips are where I had to ream them out, to get it to work on my 3.7 intake. The bolt holes line up perfectly and the gasket still seals it.


Here is a Pic of it installed.


It fits right where the original TB was located, I was a little concerned because it is a little larger on the bottom, but there was enough room to fit just like it was made for it.
Couple more Pics of the install.
Right side.


Left side.


Now comes the issue of the air tube.
My DIY CIA uses a 3" smooth bore RV sewer pipe for the connection to the TB. But 3" ID needs to go to a 3.125" OD TB.
I was hoping to be able to heat up the sewer pipe and stretch it over the new TB... But it did not work. So tomorrow I will need to get a new intake tube to go from the air box to the TB. For now I used the same coupler I was using on my OEM TB which makes the inside diam 2.75"(approx). Kinda defeats the purpose of the new TB, but at least I can drive it.


The other thing I thought of was the intake manifold opening. What good does a larger TB do if the intake hole is the same size as the original TB? To my surprise the intake manifold opening is actually larger then the original TB opening, and just a hair smaller then the new one. :D
Now I have the little bugger installed and hoping the rig will run.
WOW fired right up on the first try! YEA!
I was warned by the Jeep guys the RPMs seem to hang a little longer, which they did. Each time I reved the engine the RPM would hang there, rev a little more and the RPMs go up again and stay there...
Finally at 4000 RPM it broke, and dropped to a 1000 RPM idle. A few more revs and it dropped to a 700 RPM idle with very little hanging at the top RPM. I think the Nitro was just getting a feel for it. Anyway, it is acting almost like normal again. Tomorrow comes the road test.
After I get a new air tube, I will post back on the gains [MPG and noticeable power (if any)] and will include more Pics.
I do not know if this Mod will work on a 4.0 or CRD!
Now for the obligatory warnings.
Caution:
DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK!
This post/thread and any others related to modifying/repairing your Nitro in any way are here for informational purposes only.
It is your sole responsibility to verify the information is correct, accurate, and safe to use.
What you choose to do with the information is up to you.
If you are unsure, please consult a professional.
Before doing any work on the Nitro, disconnect the Neg (-) battery cable and wait 10 minutes!
This will allow time for the airbag capacitors to discharge.
You don't want to have your airbags go off accidentally.
It has already happened to a few members here...
 

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Thanks for this great info!!! I have this down for my future mods list (after the cAI and Catback are done). I am curious as to it having an effect on emissions inspection though.
 

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2,309 Posts
Hey ScarO, I bought 1 of these from a former member and a JS1 chip and stock fit K&N filter for my 10 liberty they are awesome. I think I'm gonna convince the boss to get a new exhaust soon.
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
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29,827 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Just for clarification, this is not a fastman throttle body. It is an 08 Dodge Durango 4.7L throttle body.
We do not have emission testing here so I do not know how, or if, it would effect it.
One could surmise that since the amount of fuel being injected is regulated by the computers, MAP sensor, and O2 sensors, that it should be just fine at a test.

Really all this does is let more air "in" easier. The less work the engine has to do to get the air "in", the more HP there is to use elsewhere, and in theory, the better mileage you will get. Also because the throttle valve is larger, your throttle response is much improved.

I did not make it to the parts store to get a new intake tube today. But I did drive it.
With only 1 day of driving 20 miles, the system is still learning.
Not real sure on power gains as my airflow is still restricted. But I did notice that I do not have to push as hard on the pedal to maintain speed. I also noticed that the compression braking is much better. Once I get the new intake tube I will fill up and report on mileage gains, if any.
 

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:999: Dang it, another mod to add to my list. Nice work and pics. I'll start looking for one soon. I can add it during my CAI mods.


Hey, about a trip to the car wash!! I dislike dirty engines. :57:


What's the part number on it? I'm seeing TB up to '07 are cable driven. If so, then '08 and newer will work. I also see it's possible that the same size was used on V10, 5.7, and other engines.
Is it: #53032837AA Made in the USA
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
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Discussion Starter #8
I did not look at the part # before I installed it.
In the e-bay listing I got mine from it stated;
This part will fit these makes and models with these options;
VIPER 13 Throttle Valve Assembly
COMMANDER 08-09 4.7L
DODGE 1500 PICKUP 08-13 Throttle Valve Assembly; 4.7L
DAKOTA 08-11 Throttle Valve Assembly; 4.7L
ASPEN 08-09 4.7L
DURANGO 08-09 Throttle Valve Assembly; 4.7L
GRAND CHEROKEE 08-09 Throttle Valve Assembly; 4.7L
VIPER 08-10 Throttle Valve Assembly

After reading several threads about interchangeability... the above coincided with what I read.
 

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Your fourth pic has the part number visible: 53032837AA
A new part number 53032837AB is probably an updated version.
When I do mine, I'll say it's a Viper TB.:Racing:
Sounds cooler than a RAM 1500 TB. :SHOCKED:
 

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Awesome mod Scar0! I've been eyeing something like this since I got my '11 4.0L. If you get positive results then I'll have to take a serious look into this. Looks a lot easier than changing the sparkplugs was! :SHOCKED:

Thanks for the great wright up!

:rep:

Cy
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Good eye NitroChemist! I totally missed that! :rep:

Not sure if this will work on the 4.0. Only way to know is if someone tries it.

The install was a breeze. 4 bolts out, 4 in. It took longer to clean the used TB then it did to install it. To ream the holes out, I hand held the TB, chucked in a drill bit the same size as the hole in my drill press, and pushed sideways till it fit. Not the best way to do it, but it works.

I did not drive anywhere today, life got in the way...
So, I will have to wait another day to get a larger diameter intake air tube from the air box to the TB.
 

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SCARO that is a very cool mod. You said the Nitro was learning. How is the rpm hang during shifts? I have a 6spd like yours. Where I want to see improvement is throttle response in 1st gear from a stop. My Nitro seems to have a soft spot in the throttle when I hit the gas and release the clutch to get moving. It seems to lag and then picks up much stronger. This is only noticeable in routine driving. If I hit the gas hard its not as noticeable.
Have you ever noticed this in your Nitro? Will a larger TB help this? Thanks for the pics and info!
 

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The Univalent Radical
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FYI. I had a 2006 Jeep Commander with the 4.7, so I know something about this engine. In 2008, the engine received major modification, to make it more in line with the Hemi and give it almost 100 more HP. The heads were changed, it went from 1 to 2 spark plugs/cylinder, and the throttle body may have changed also.

So, if anyone is considering this, I would look for a 2008 or newer. I believe that this engine is still available in the Ram.

:cool:
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
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29,827 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
The RPM hang is almost not noticeable again after my one short drive.
I haven't driven enough to really get a feel for it yet. With the old TB I would calibrate it about once every 1-3 months by doing method 1 of this post. This alone helped a lot. I plan on doing this after I get a few 100 miles on this TB.

The 4.7 TB used for this Mod is compatible with the vehicles I listed above. You can not use one from an 2007- 4.7, different TB all together.
 

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Scar0 great job

Have to look at those pix in great detail.
And like you said you need to adapt bigger tube.
Going to look at mine to se what I may need with the K&N intake attached.

Well done
 

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I looked at the part numbers of the new larger TB.
So your original was 04861661AA ?
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Yes original TB was 04861661AA
Small update. I still do not have a larger intake tube.

Today I took a 116 mile trip. 65% freeway @ 72 MPH, 18% stop and go rush hour, 16% city, 1% idling in a parking lot, all with the A/C on.

Raw data. 116 miles, 7.395 gallons = 15.7 Mpg
Mpg calculated with compensation for my over sized tires.
Revolution per mile; Stock 716.56/mi My tires 681.88/mi = difference of 34.68 Revolutions per mile.
Circumference of my tire = 95.83" X difference of 34.68" = 3323.3844"
3323.3844" / 692260" in a mile = .05 mile farther traveled per each mile on speedometer.
116 miles x .05 = 5.8 miles.
116 + 5.8= 121.8 miles total.
121.8 miles / 7.395 gallons = 16.47 MPG.
Not taking into account the fuel used when idling in traffic and in the parking lot.

On average, back when I was calculating my mileage, I was getting about 13-15 Mpg Raw. So this has already shown me a gain of .7 Mpg Raw data, with the intake tube still slightly restricted.

Not as good as I hoped for, also not the best conditions for a test, but at least I now have a starting point, and can go from there.
I did not calculate my mileage immediately prior to doing this Mod. So I have to start somewhere. I will continue to use Raw data as it is easier to calculate by hand.

There is still an RPM hang when revving the engine (while in gear) and putting in the clutch. If I shift it drops right down, if I just put in the clutch and are still rolling fast (over 30Mph) it will hang for about 1-2 seconds.
 

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What ya need is an ELM 327 and an app. I have 6000+ miles logged with fuel milage. If I get this TB soon, I can compare directly with app info I have now. I only have about 1000 miles with app info.

Any small improvement adds up over time!!
 
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