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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Need a meeting of minds to help with my Turbo Nitro project. I'm in the works of getting a list together of the parts that need to be swapped, as well as forged etc..., cause my goal is to slap a Turbonetics T66 turbo on my Nitro and to ultimately run around 10-12 psi of boost. Thoughts?
 

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Well talking turbos

the 3.7 has a mechanical compression ratio of 9.1 to 1
the 4.0 has a mechanical compression ratio of 10.2 to 1

I am running Twin Turbos on a 388 inch LT1 that has been built to handle the power i am running 8.4 to 1 compression and running 93 octane pump gas with a huge Intercooler i am running 12 lbs of boost (with 100 octane i run 22 lbs of boost) and i can do that because of the better fuel

The Stock compression ratios in both the 3.7 and 4.0 would be to high to allow you to run and kind of boost, you may get away with 5 lbs or under on the 3.7 but that wont even work on the 4.0

If you want to run a turbo on either the 3.7 or 4.0 you are going to need to beef up the inners of the motor and drop the compression ratio to 8.5 to 1 or below
 

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I think the goal of 10-12 is a bit high unless you are planning on pulling the bottom end apart and replacing the crank and pistons.

That is of course unless there is a tuner produced before you get there. You will certainly need the ability to pull some timing out if you get above 10 pounds of boost.

Other than that, I'm sure the turbo will be a huge improvement over the lack luster performance that it has now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well I turbo'd (dont laugh) my saturn ion and thats exactly what i Had to do because there is o tuning available for that 2.2l Ecotec engine and was able to achiev around 11psi after replacing the pistons and what not .. But I'd LOVE to have a racing nitro so any suggestions?
 

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I am considering turbocharging my wife's Nitro. Probably do something like a GT35R Killer from Turbonetics. Maybe a 60 series (60-1 or 62-1). Probably won't go all out for the T-series, no real need to go T4 on this engine.

As for tuning, I was thinking either a custom tune using a reflash device (SCT) or a AEM FI/C piggy back.

Basic kit, i/c, single turbo, 6-8 psi, nothing crazy.

We just put a GTK450 on the boss's FJ Cruiser..
 

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Well talking turbos

the 3.7 has a mechanical compression ratio of 9.1 to 1
the 4.0 has a mechanical compression ratio of 10.2 to 1

I am running Twin Turbos on a 388 inch LT1 that has been built to handle the power i am running 8.4 to 1 compression and running 93 octane pump gas with a huge Intercooler i am running 12 lbs of boost (with 100 octane i run 22 lbs of boost) and i can do that because of the better fuel

The Stock compression ratios in both the 3.7 and 4.0 would be to high to allow you to run and kind of boost, you may get away with 5 lbs or under on the 3.7 but that wont even work on the 4.0

If you want to run a turbo on either the 3.7 or 4.0 you are going to need to beef up the inners of the motor and drop the compression ratio to 8.5 to 1 or below
You can run 10 psi on either of those compression ratios on pump gas. I ran 15psi on a 10.5:1 miata for years, it's all in the tune.
 

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you ran 15 psi with 10.5:1 cr? on pump gas?

:SHOCKED:
It's pretty typical these days. It all depends on the turbo size, but yeah. No problems.


Sorry, I rechecked.. it was 10.0:1, not 10.5:1. But still. It's like turboing a 99-00 Civic Si, they are 10.2:1 from the factory, and with the right tune, you can double the horsepower on the stock engine.
 

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i asked this question to the guys over on the liberty forums and they said the 3.7 couldn't handle ANY boost because the pistons will blow apart, and I'm talking only 3-4 psi here.

Something about the rings on the piston being too high up? I dunno, I am a dummy when it comes to turbo stuff.

All I know is this 3.7 is pretty weak - unfortunately it was the only available engine in the liberty. No 4.0 for us.
 

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High ring placement are pretty common on most late model vehicles, for emissions. Makes the ring lands susceptible to cracking.

That's not to say you can't boost it, just means you need to be conservative on the timing, and avoid knock like whoa. ;)
 

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5-6 depending on the tune will give you up to 20% more HP.

The problem is the engine will not last like that. At minimum, your talking about new pistions / rings and some extensive pipe work. While you have it apart, if you don't work the heads you are throwing money away.

Do it all or don't do it at all. Just my opinion.

Putting real power to the ground on a turbo'd Nitro would be a task as well. The suspension is SUV'd to the max. This thing would have to be channeled and lowered by 3 inches minimum to keep it from wanting to get away from you.

It can be done. But we are not talking about a tuner add on here.
 

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I'm not a 'tuner', I'm an old school engine guy.. Motorhead. Car Nut. Mopar Fanatic.

First, if you have the 3.7, I don't think I'd bother turboing it. If you have the 4.0, here's what I'd do..

Pull the motor, have custom rods and pistons built for it, that dish and at the same time, improve the swirl. This lets you get more boost without detonation. Next, I'd say drop the engine CR while you're doing this to around 8 to 8.8, no higher.

You'll need to seriously alter your timing and fuel curves for this, so I'd suggest whacking the stock computer and going with Megasquirt, or something similar.

The weak spots in this plan are:

1 crank - high boost will result in some broken bits.
2 trans - if you have the auto, there's going to be issues with power and controlling it. If manual, that'll help some.
3 emissions inspections.

if I REALLY wanted the horsepower, I'd just shoehorn a Hemi under the hood and run with it.

The 4.0 is a relative of the 3.5, which was a respectable and decent engine. But they were not overbuilt like Mopar engines of old - gotta be all light and "modern" you know.

I have the old 2.5 buzzy 4 cylinder in a caravan with a 5 speed - all factory. And that engine WILL take a heap of abuse and keep running. And I have an old Poly 318 in a Power Wagon. Built like it was meant to keep a ship from drifting at sea... Forged steel crank, rods that would make Chevy blush in embarrassment, massively thick bearing webs in the block, full floating piston pins, cylinder wall thickness so massive you can bore nearly 1/8 inch and still have a solid wall. Heads made of so much iron it's all one man can do to lift them. It wasn't enough to have a forged crank. They HARDENED THE JOURNALS on top of that! That motor doesn't make a lot of horsepower in stock trim, but it can be hopped up, and it'll make full horsepower, WOT, for hours and hours and hours. The engine was used in agricultural equipment. The mechanics told me a 350 chevy would die in less than a season of use, these engines lasted multiple years and rarely ever broke.

Now, the difference is, that 318 made 160 horsepower in my truck, and 240 hp in the harvester. And it weighs a LOT more than the 4.0. You can't have "indestructible" and "light" at the same time.

One of the most bulletproof V6's on the road today is the chrysler 3.3 pushrod engine. Many of them run several hundred thousand miles and still are healthy. But people have tried turbocharging them and the result is that they break themselves into smallish parts.

So, while I love the idea, and I know you could make it "work", do you REALLY want something you can break easily? It would be a lot of fun when it wasn't broken... But how much are you willing to pay for that "fun"? Find an old Neon and make it a project instead. Faster, more fun, and less costly.
 
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