[Myke]

I've been working on my nitro for about 4 months now trying to get it to work I clicks but won't crank but a lot has happened to it in the past 4 months.

It all started with the engine dying abruptly in september. Mechanic swapped the battery and everything was fine. I ran good till the car began overheating. Me and my infinite knowledge decided the sensor was broke cuz there was no smoke coming from the engine. I drove it for another 60 miles till the engine blew and coolant came out the rear. Heads werre warped and the gasket was blown, so I resurfaced the heads and swapped the gasket.

When I went to check the engine job I started the car, put it into drive and heard a massive thunk. Pulled a P0753 code, The shift solenoid A was damaged. I opened up the tranny and swapped the solenoid, but also broke the conducter plate in the process so that was swapped.

I went to turn on the car to test the tranny it needed a jump and started very weakly and wouldn't stay on. I swapped the starter first and same thing, I swapped the alternator and now it won't start. All I'm getting is clicks from the solenoid. I swapped the fuse and same thing happened, BUT I put a wire across the fuse connection and the starter cranked. Any ideas as to what is going on?

 

[Blue ram]

I would check the battery voltage when you try to start.
Light work OK? Still check voltage then.Nitro never happy with low battery.

 

[Scar0]

Wow, you have done a lot.
Check all the relays. For function and location see. https://www.nitroforumz.com/threads/fuses-relays.37544/
I'd look at ASD, Run, Start.
Also look at the fuse holder prongs in the fuse hole in the TIPM. Poor connection.

 

[Myke]

every time I try to start I'm connecting it to another car and the multimeter says 13.7v on the battery connection. I tested the relays this morning and found out that all of them have a good resistance at ~75 ohms. I hooked em all up to a dc power supply set at 12 V and they all clicked and I read an ohm reading across 30 and 87 of under .5 ohms. I tested all the Fuse box connection and all of the hot lines read at the battery level 11.5V except for the PCM relay socket where the voltage read 10.5

 

[Myke]

I'm at a deadend so im going to try the obvious. I took the battery in to autozone to charge it fully, they said volts were fine but amps were nill. Im gonna slap myself in the face if its just the battery at this point

 

[Myke]

It was the battery

 

[Scar0]

At least your back on the road now!
Thanks for getting back to us with the cause and fix.