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Well here goes...Been battling the beast for awhile, and I'm about to give in. Replaced the oil sending unit a few months back due to some dry starts after the wife took it to Valvoline to have the oil changed :-\ ... Long story ending with flushing the engine, replacing the filter twice and now...well, let's just say "Hell hath No Fury..."!!! So I started getting errors p303, then p305...replaced plugs with coppers and coil packs on the offenders...Then code p300, followed by a p2110 if I remember correctly...Removed the fuel component and cleaned it to remove any carbon, etc. then made sure it was working properly and reinstalled...Ran some Seafoam through the intake, as well as added Lucas to the fuel and got rid of all the error codes. Now, As the misfires were occurring, the rpms would drop at idle and cause the oil light to chime and stay on...It sounds as though it is not getting oil on the top side, and the oil pressure light stays on even after I clear the codes. Removed the filter and replaced the sending unit again to make sure it was working properly...Still same issue...I'm assuming I have a plug somewhere, but don't know if I should try to check at the topside first by removing the valve covers, or just go ahead and take a run at the oil pan(pick up tube)? Would I be better served by trying to flush it again, or just bite the bullet and go for the pan? Any direction would be greatly appreciated! (Then we can discuss the copious amounts of Tranny fluid underneath my rig ;-) ... But that's for another day!)
 

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I'd start by actually reading oil pressure. I'm sure I can find the location they want you to use for diag purposes. But if you have real oil pressures issues it either a bad pump,sludge or your bearings are junk.
 

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07Lifted,4X4,6sp-man,3.7L
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Since the pressure sensor is located at the beginning of the oil flow cycle(above the filter), I'd check the pressure there.
After reaching operating temperature; Idle 4 psi (25 kPa) minimum. At 3000 rpm 25-110 psi (170-758 kPa)
If your pressure is low there, then it is either a partially blocked pickup tube/screen, or the pressure relief valve is stuck open (part of the oil pump housing).
 

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How would you attach a gauge? Without accessing the interior,
could you route the wires (or tubing if you go mechanical)
up to the engine bay? Thanks, douglas
 

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07Lifted,4X4,6sp-man,3.7L
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I'm not aware of an external access point to the oil system.
One could add a "T" into the block, where the sensor is, add tubing off the "T" to the mechanical gauge, put OEM sensor on end of "T".
I would not move the sensor more then is absolutely necessary to accomplish your goal. The closer to the original location it is, the more accurate it will read.
I'm not sure if there is an aftermarket electrical type gauge you can add to the system to pull the pressure. Honestly I have not looked into it...
The Nitro requires an accurate pressure signal from the sensor, or the computers take notice...
 

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I sure wish the factory would have put an oil gauge. On a truck like this, to me, full set of gauges should have been delivered. Thanks douglas
 
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