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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Thought I'd post up some pics of the recent service I had done to the Nitro. The dealership was charging $340 + taxes for the front and rear diff service. I wasnt going to pay this knowing it was an easy job.

Total cost of the oil's (including the auto trans oil) was $100 at my local napa store. I used what was recommended in my owners manual:

Front Axle SAE 80W-90 Multipurpose Type, GL-5 Gear Lubricant or equivalent.
Rear Axle SAE 75W-140 Synthetic Gear Lubricant or equivalent.

Total time was about an hour.

This can be done on the ground with jacks, but make sure the truck is level for this. You want to drain out as much fluid as possible.

Starting with the front diff. Pretty easy. 1st pic is your drain plug. this is located on the bottom. Undo this to drain all oil.



Second pic is your fill plug.



screw back in your drain plug, and sqeeze in your new oil through the fill plug until it poors out.



checks for leaks, use brake cleaner to clean it up and your done the front!

Rear diff



undo all bolts to the diff cover



let her drain



clean all the old gasket maker residue with a razor blade and brake cleaner. apply RTV on the diff cover, and re-install it once the fluid has been drained.

Refill the rear diff until it poors out, just like the front.





plug her up and yer done!

Since i had the hoist for another 10 minutes, figured i would drain the transfer case oil.

very easy, 2 bolts. 1 drain and 1 fill. drain is on the bottom.



drain fluid out, screw back in drain plug, fill her up till she poors out and yer done!



Hope these pics help out some people who want to save a couple hundred bucks!
 

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WOW Great pics and how to write up. I'm sure it will help people in the future. :rep:
 

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Great pictorial.

I just did all of this 2 weeks ago. Just so others won't be confused, when you say "auto trans oil", your talking about the ATF+4 that's in the 4x4 transfer case, not the transmission.

Instead putting RTV back on the rear diff, I got a dodge 8.25" diff gasket. After cleaning up the old RTV it sealed up tight, and I shouldn't have to scrape anything off the next time.

Also, there is a square magnet in the bottom of the rear diff that you'll want to clean off before sealing it back up.
 

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I'm curious I've changed tranny before in a manual tranny but isn't it true you can't get all the fluid out of the transmission because there is fluid in the tourqe converter that won't come out or something along those lines?
 

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Yes the converter is filled with fluid!
 

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I did the same service over the summer.....ver easy. What the garages/dealerships charge for this work is almost criminal.
 
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Reactions: RC's '08 Nitro

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As far as the tourque Conv. being filled, I'd rather drop pan change filter the first time, then the second time, hook up trans cooler lines to fluch system, I'd hate to pay for a flush with and old filter, at least with new filter, you'd get a good percentage of the old fluid out, and have a new filter.
 

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It is typically not recomended to fully flush an automatic transmission. Leaving some of the old fluid in there keeps the friction plates from wearing out prematurely; so I'm told.

Dropping the pan, replacing the filter, then add new fluid to replace what poured out is pretty much the best you can do for it.

I love to use lubelocker gaskets. It's the only one I could get to fully seal the trans pan on the dakota I had. They have gaskets for both the 42RLE auto trans and the 8.25" rear diff. No ATV needed and they are reusable. And if the extra $20 saves me from getting under there a second time to replace a gasket that didn't seal it's well worth it to me.

But to reiterate, no this howto does not cover the transmission; only how to drain and refill the diffs and transfir case.
 

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07Lifted,4X4,6sp-man,3.7L
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The SM recommends;
Mopar Lubricant SAE 80W-90 Multipurpose Type, GL-5 Gear Lubricant or equivalent, for the front (2.6 pints).
Mopar SAE 75W-140 Synthetic Gear Lubricant or equivalent (4.4 pints), for the rear.
There is no mention of a friction modifier/ or limited slip additive for the rear. It won't hurt anything to be in there, but it is not mentioned in the SM.
 
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Reactions: MoniMoni

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Based on my posts, you all can probably see that I am bit a newbie. But the thrill of working on your own vehicle and not paying someone else is really great. I have never changed differential fluid and have a few more questions before I go on this journey.

When screwing the bolts back in, should they be coated with an anti-seize or similar. Also, when using the RTV, do you wait for it to set before adding the fluid? I was looking at Permatex Gear Oil RTV Sealant (3 oz) Part No. 81182. It says the cure time is 1 hour and complete drying is 24 hours.

http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-makers/permatex-gear-oil-rtv-gasket-maker-detail
 

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Anti-seize is a choice you need to make. I do not believe the original bolts came with it...
After you clean all the surfaces, apply the RTV, then finger tighten the bolts until the RTV begins to squeeze out around flange. Allow it to dry for one hour, then re-tighten 1/4 to 1/2 turn before adding fluid.
The "cure time" will allow time for the RTV to get a skin on it so the fluid will not penetrate it. The "dry time" is time for it to fully set.
 
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