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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
I changed the front and rear axle fluids following the instructions. .

I called around and they wanted from $160 to $260 for this!

Materials:

Rear: Quaker State 75W140 Synthetic @ 19.99 X 3L = 59.97
Front: NAPA Premium (Valvoline) 80W90 @ 5.29 X 2L = 10.58
One time purchase of a Suction gun @ 19.99
Total with Taxes included $98.44

Pretty easy really and worth it for the money saved ($60 to $160 depending on where) and the great feeling of doing it yourself!
 

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WOW Great Info. Thanx!
 

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4x4 service

Heads Up...yes the dealership charges a fortune for this service...required at 50.000 km, called a 4x4 service....$530.00 cad.
when my plug was removed they found that the part was defective. only one thread holding the plug in place. Now the dealership tells me the part is on back order and the would like to replace it with an aluminum weld? are kidding me....I am glad we did not do this service our selves the first time....we are all covered under warranty...even the car rental...

be careful....
 

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It's all pretty straight forward:

Front diff service:
  • allen bolt drain plug on the bottom
  • filler plug 3/4 of the way up--crack this first before draining to be sure you can even get it open
  • just fill until it reaches filler plug
  • takes 80W-90 GL-5
  • torque both plugs to 15 ft-lbs
Took 3 pumps of my 18oz suction gun and it was overflowing.
You can also pull the cover and replace the rtv with a lube locker.

Rear diff service:
option 1:
- pop off the rubber plug and use a suction gun to pull out the old fluid and then pump in the new
option 2:
  • drop the spare tire to make easier access (optional)
  • pull off cover, clean thoroughly inside and cover
  • clean off old RTV
  • replace cover with orange mopar RTV or a gasket (I recommend a lube locker)
  • torque cover bolts to 30 ft-bs
  • fill with pump through plug hole till starts to spill out
  • takes 75W-140 full synth

Transfer case:
  • drain plug 3/8" allen, 15-25 ft-lbs
  • takes ATF+4 or equivalent (Mobil 1 Full Synth ATF is fine also)

Note: some of the plugs are not machine screws but actually pipe threads, so do not over torque.

I also replaced the junk gasket on my transmission pan with a lube locker. Seals tight now, no more leaking. Also, if you do your transmission, it's really important to put loctite on the 2nd bolt from the front on the drivers side, otherwise it will leak. It goes into some passage that needs sealing off.

The lube locker gaskets are all reusable--I've read reviews saying they get 3-4 uses out of them each. Much easier than dealing with rtv.
 

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Ty 🙏🏻 Helps tons bro. This Nitro still runs on point proper and was serviced regularly (almost 200k) and I want to make sure it stays that way, snow JUST hit so I think I’m gona just make sure each are topped off and do a full service in Spring as my small track/4x4 test went great.

Also quick question on checking the transfer care fluid level, true that the oil dipstick can be used and (safe) markings line up?

And your advice and link was for the 42rle 4speed-auto, mine is the W5A580 / NAG1 5speed-auto so I’m assuming different fluid&process? Never done this before (embarrassing af lol) so want to make sure it’s done right. Ty!

Great forum 🦾
 
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