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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright guys! I’ve been reading through a few old threads but haven’t found something completely the same about the door locks and central, remote locking that is happening with my 2007 Dodge Nitro SXT.
So basically it’s fitted with an aftermarket alarm, which I tend to use rather than the remote lock on my key.
When using the after market remote or the key fob to lock, all the locks go down and alarm set. I recently learnt that the car in fact isn’t actually always locked. My friend opened the door from the outside whilst it was supposedly locked. Of course the alarm sounded but I have no idea how the locks go down but don’t actually lock.
To add, sometimes when the locks go down they actually do lock the doors.
Has anyone experienced this happen on their Nitro?
thanks, Adam.
 

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My parents have a 2009 Town & Country, and the front passenger door lock actuator went bad on it. It would sometimes partially lock or unlock that door.

Does this happen on all of the doors? When the locks physically go down, but don't lock, can you open any door? I'm wondering if the aftermarket alarm sometimes doesn't have quite enough power to fully lock the doors? Like the plunger looks like it goes down, but it's not fully down?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That’s a good point, it is on every door, the thing is I decided to just try with only the remote locking on the dodge key and even though all locks went down I was able to open the door still. It seems to be intermittent as the doors were locked at one point as I tried to open the door and it was locked. Some sort of a power failure could be it though do you think?
I only really use the aftermarket key fob usually as when using only the dodge key fob in the past when I first got the car I felt like it caused some strange electrical wizardry so thought perhaps that’s why they fitted the aftermarket alarm but now if the locks don’t work maybe it’s all related somehow.
 

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Can you sit in the car, and then try to lock the doors, and then see if you can physically push the plungers down more? Because if the plungers physically go all the way down, then the doors should be locked. If they just move a little, but don't go down all the way, then they probably won't be locked.

This could be a way to pin point what the actual problem is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
i tried it out this morning and they were all the way down, after work I’ll try a few other things out with the locks and see what happens. i know when my friend noticed it I locked the doors from the switch on the inside and he still managed to open the door. At some point I’ll probably take the door panel off and see if I can see anything strange going on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
just a little update on this one, I haven’t yet investigated what’s going on with the locks in more detail as yet due to not having the time, however i have found that manually pushing the lock down from inside the car then closing the door does properly lock the door. I then use the remote to set the alarm after and seems to do the job for now. Hopefully at some point I’ll have some time to try and find out what’s really going on.
 

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it sounds to me like your door lock mechanism is sticky, to get to the locking mechanism is a real pain you literally have to strip the whole door down even seperating the glass from the winder mechanism, you certainly need to read up on the proceedure before hand,
something easy to try first would be to spray plenty of lubricant into the locking mechanism, and you might get lucky,
 
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it sounds to me like your door lock mechanism is sticky, to get to the locking mechanism is a real pain you literally have to strip the whole door down even seperating the glass from the winder mechanism, you certainly need to read up on the proceedure before hand,
something easy to try first would be to spray plenty of lubricant into the locking mechanism, and you might get lucky,
If it's happening on every door, like he stated it was, then it's probably not a sticking lock mechanism. It probably has something to do with whatever computer is responsible for for the power locks. I don't know if that would be the TIPM, or whatever else. I haven't needed to read up on computers issues for my Nitro yet.

I did have a similar problem on my 98 Town & Country, that was caused by the BCM (Body Control Module). Stuff just went crazy when the BCM went bad. The power locks were one of those things. I locked my keys in the van one time after I hit the unlock button, and then shut the door. It locked the doors instead of unlocking them. I switched the BCM with a junkyard, and the locks worked great, but then I had other weird issues. I finally got a good BCM on eBay, and everything eventually worked again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks guys, i will for the sake of it spray some lubricant on the lock mechanisms and I can imagine the door panels to be a mission to take off, I used to own a Dodge Caliber when I lived in England and I took the door panels off and it took a long time that’s for sure. As NitroHeat said, maybe it is computer related, im not sure fully on the history of the car as bought it used on 130k miles, I have a feeling no it’s been through a few TIPM related things that have lead to it having an aftermarket alarm. It’s been a while since anything odd has happened but sometimes soon as I get in the car before I’ve driven anywhere the locks go down, rarely happens but it does and sometimes it takes a while for the wipers to stop, sometimes I don’t even put them on and they’re on but it’s rare that it happens so until anything major I’ll leave it. Something tells me it had a new TIPM or reset one at some point. For now I’ll manually lock the the locks and hope that no one tries to break in
 

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the TIPM is responsible for supplying power to the door locks, if it was a power related issue i would normaly expect fuse M38 to blow, this fuse can get hot and become loose or burnt, maybe check for that, fuse M38 is linked to all the doors and hatch, then the driver door has its own circuit, and all other doors and hatch are on another circuit,
back in 2013 i bought my Nitro cheap with a locking issue (i thought it would be an easy fix) ended up stripping down te whole locking system, turned out to be a relay issue (SMD relay) on the main computer PCB, however thats not the same issue you are having,
 
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