[Nitrogen]

Hi Chris, this may not be TIPM related (fingers crossed),
next time your blower stops working try giving the motor a sharp tap and see if it comes back to life, if so it could be the brushes within the motor ( another member had the same problem last year), if the brushes are worn they will have low contact with the motor which can cause the résistors to blow.
as for the door locks when you lock the vehicle the TIPM sends 1 signal too locks all doors, so if some doors lock and some don't most likely to be the master switch (drivers door) or the individual door locking mechanism.

at a guess i think Terence is talking about changing the locking mechanism !.

 

[Nitrogen]

keeping things simple:
the master switch only sends signals to the TIPM, then the TIPM sends the power, to check if the power is been supplied to the locking mechanism you need to remove the door panel ( fairly easy ), you will see the wiring harness that goes to the locking mechanism, you can probe the wires at this point, just push the point of your test probe through the wire insulation

TAN/LT GRN: unlock positive feed
TAN/WHT: lock positive feed

please do this at your own risk.

you should also try changing the EVIC setting just to see if anything changes, also try the Vehicle computer reset Disconnect battery NEGATIVE lead for 10 minutes then reconnect.

 

[Nitrogen]

i'm not sure but you maybe able to get to the wiring harness through the master switch opening ?.

can't remember the exact proceedure for removing the door panel, but it's something like this: remove all screws, prise the panel off it's clips around the outer edge and lift the panel UP, there is then a inner panel which covers everthing within the door, and thats a pain to remove, thats why i say try test the wire at the first available point.

we live next door to brittany in Normandy.

 

[Nitrogen]

there should be no chafing in the door shut A pillar, the wiring harness goes to the A pillar then there is a socket connector, then the door harness has a plug, they plug together in the A pillar door shut area, its very difficult to get too, and if you pull the rubber boot off it is quite hard to get back on, however not impossible, you could possibly find the wires behind the lower A pillar interior kick panel ?.

 

[Nitrogen]

you could try generously spraying WD40 into the locking mechanism, it only takes a small amount of resistance for the mechanism to stop working. WD40 is not electrically conductive so don't worry about it getting into the electrics.

i would say the export Nitro lock mechanism is different BUT not 100% sure, normaly you can not order export Nitro parts in the USA, unless they are a common part to both markets.

 

[Nitrogen]

Well done, great info, glad it was not your TIPM.

 

[Nitrogen]

Hi NitroRich, the best plan is, first try every trick to get the door unlocked, because even if you remove the carrier plate i don't think you will get the door open (as ScarO says ). even worse, on EXPORT Nitro's when the door locks, after about 15 seconds the doors then double locks, the double locking system disconnects all unlocking methods from the lock.

my questions now: did the door lock and then refused to unlock ?, did the lock freeze in cold weather, then stop working ?, or did it start with an intermittent fault ?.

 

[Nitrogen]

so does the pin go up and down when locking and unlocking ?.

 

[Nitrogen]

if there is nothing happening from the handle inside or outside then my guess would be the deadlock,
i can help you open the door without breaking anything, but you will need to get down and dirty in the drivers footwell (with the door closed and the seat in place ), or maybe it can be done from under the hood,

 

[Nitrogen]

forget the door card (for now ) you cannot get past the deadlock, the deadlock works electrically within the locking mechanism, see if you can pull off the plastic kick panel in the drivers side footwell (next to the A pillar) there are 2 relays hanging there try switching them over and see if the drivers door opens, if the door does not open, somehow check if both relays are activating, ie: pull one relay press keyfob, switch relays press keyfob, you get the idea, see how that goes,
just one thing i thought of, if the deadlock solonoid in the locking mechanism was sticking, then you could try pressing the unlock on the keyfob whilst lightly thumping the door handle, it could just help free it off,

 

[Nitrogen]

yep they should be there in your photo, i will check my Nitro tomorrow (it was 10 years ago i last looked at mine),

 

[Nitrogen]

not sure what IP is you say right kick panel, 99% sure thats where mine are,
secondary relays are the deadlock relays, Thatcham is the security system, these relays are part of that system,
its common for alot of wiring diagrams not to contain info regarding the security system ( i think its for security reasons ), i didn't take a look at my Nitro yesterday because of the bad weather, will try today,
in your photo of the right kick panel there is a metal plate, the realys could be behind there, i think that plate is a requirment of the Thatcham security standard, But not 100% sure, i think that plate was already removed on my Nitro because i don't remember seeing it,

 

[Nitrogen]

easy way to find the relays, get in the foot well, head first, ( glad its you and not me) lock the doors with the keyfob, after about 20 seconds you will here the relays activate the deadlocks, hopefully you can pinpoint the relays location,

 

[Nitrogen]

also in your photo i see a crimped bullet connector with nothing connected as if something has been modified

 

[Nitrogen]

well i didn't get to look at mine today by time i got home it was dark and raining Again, i was also wondering what the white socket in your pic was for,
anyways have you still got your E-pace, if so hows it going ?.

 

[Nitrogen]

i will take a look for sure but the wind and rain is relentless and getting dark early,
friend of mine has the 2021 discovery he loves it, i'd realy like the new defender (basicly a discovery according to Richard Hammond), but won't be getting anything for a few years my children are starting to leave school and learning to drive so no money in the kitty,

 

[Nitrogen]

the relays are mounted high up on that dash frame, here is a pic

press the keyfob and check if they are both clicking, i think i have a wiring diagram of the security relays, i"ll see if i can find it, bit of luck you won't need it,
i presume you tried the master door switch to see if the door unlocked ?

 

[Nitrogen]

i was really hoping you would not have to go further than the relays, as you probably now know the locking mechanism is bolted to the door from inside the door-shut area which you can't access, next thing i would try is to find the unlocking solonoid wires and feed them direct with 12v and hopefully the door pops open,

 

[Nitrogen]

first job i had to do on my Nitro was mess around with the door locks, and it was a pain in the ass, and what a strange design the carrier plate is,
anyways the deadlock system is activated by a small soloniod within the locking mechanism and i don't believe there is any way of disengaging it other than with a 12v supply,
maybe with your new lock you can work out a way of pushing and proding something that will unlock it,
just remember to service the new lock before installing it, and it should be trouble free after that,

 

[Nitrogen]

looking at some advanced wiring diagrams curtesey of ScarO, and it has fuse J11 marked as Thatcham relay lock feed, the wiring is for several vehicles and the Nitro is listed as one of them, i doubt it is your issue but definitely worth a check,