[Nitrogen]

Hi Chris, this may not be TIPM related (fingers crossed),
next time your blower stops working try giving the motor a sharp tap and see if it comes back to life, if so it could be the brushes within the motor ( another member had the same problem last year), if the brushes are worn they will have low contact with the motor which can cause the résistors to blow.
as for the door locks when you lock the vehicle the TIPM sends 1 signal too locks all doors, so if some doors lock and some don't most likely to be the master switch (drivers door) or the individual door locking mechanism.

at a guess i think Terence is talking about changing the locking mechanism !.

 

[Stig0r]

Hi Nitrogen,

Firstly - thanks for the excellent TIPM thread! Very informative

Just to let you know what I've done so far diagnostic wise. First, I checked the fuses, no only M38, but also J4, J5, J11, J13, M13, M26 and M30. Did it with a multimeter too just in case there was a hairline break in any of them (there wasn't).

The suspicion of the TIPM is down to the other intermittent electrical gremlins we've endured.

FIrstly, as I said, the rear driver side door (not passenger side - mistake in previous post) is intermittent in operation. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't? The other doors (except now the drivers) work fine. We're living with it for now - as I'm reluctant to shell out £70 for a new mechanism when it may be the TIPM - though would have thought this would affect the unklocking of all the 'other' doors?

Then there was the blower. As I said, I replaced the resistor with an aftermarket part. I worked for a month or three, then failed. Fortunately they replaced under warranty and it was fine. But then, the entire AC control panel went dead - that is to say, no light for the AC when pressed, rear fog etc. I fiddled around and pulled some fuses (HVAC ones if I remember rightly) and hey-presto, it started working again? I'd previously checked the blower motor (removed from the car and tested with another 12v source) so know that is OK.

Which brings me back to the drivers door. Following suggestions on other threads, I removed the master switch (drivers door) and opened it up to see if there was any dirt corrosion etc. I didn't expect to find any as the car is my wife's school run car and is very low mileage and gets well looked after (so not a farm hack etc.) I checked the lock/unlock switches on both sides, to no avail. Nothing will make the driver door lock work. I can operate it with the pin in the door and it can be locked/unlocked. For now, that just means leaning in from the passenger side, but need to get it sorted.

Worthy of note is that the EVIC system was previously set for a double unlock for the passenger/rear doors. ie. one click of the fob for drivers door, then another for the rest of the doors. This is because we have kids in the car mostly Mindful of your comments about the high amperage on the relays in the TIPM when 'double-clicked' I've not set this to a single click for all doors. Though perhaps too late to be of use...

The door lock mechanisms don't seem to be a strong point either and it's always best to start with the cheapest fix

Given your extensive knowledge of the electrical system now, I don't suppose you know which pins on the master switch I should be testing that give a feed to the drivers door mechanism?

Finally, whereabouts in France are you? We had a place in Brittany until recently, but the wife's inlaws still live there.

 

[Scar0]

the TIPM sends 1 signal too locks all doors, so if some doors lock and some don't most likely to be the master switch (drivers door) or the individual door locking mechanism.

I agree with this. Most likely the door locking mechanism, if the master switch tested OK.

 

[Nitrogen]

keeping things simple:
the master switch only sends signals to the TIPM, then the TIPM sends the power, to check if the power is been supplied to the locking mechanism you need to remove the door panel ( fairly easy ), you will see the wiring harness that goes to the locking mechanism, you can probe the wires at this point, just push the point of your test probe through the wire insulation

TAN/LT GRN: unlock positive feed
TAN/WHT: lock positive feed

please do this at your own risk.

you should also try changing the EVIC setting just to see if anything changes, also try the Vehicle computer reset Disconnect battery NEGATIVE lead for 10 minutes then reconnect.

 

[Stig0r]

Thanks again Nitrogen.

Forgot to say that I'd already tried a battery disconnect/reset (several times in fact) as part of the diags with the fuses. Same goes for EVIC. Changed from single press for driver door, then subsequent press for other doors, to single press for all. Neither made any difference

Next thing will be to check the locking mechanism wiring with my test light/probe. Thanks for the wiring colour coding!

Will keep you updated as I know it's not an uncommon problem, but the solutions vary....

 

[Nitrogen]

i'm not sure but you maybe able to get to the wiring harness through the master switch opening ?.

can't remember the exact proceedure for removing the door panel, but it's something like this: remove all screws, prise the panel off it's clips around the outer edge and lift the panel UP, there is then a inner panel which covers everthing within the door, and thats a pain to remove, thats why i say try test the wire at the first available point.

we live next door to brittany in Normandy.

 

[Stig0r]

Hi Nitrogen,

I'll have a look later and see if I can locate the wires that go to the lock solenoid from the master switch housing. If I'm reading you right, the switch sends signals to the TIPM and then the TIPM feeds the lock - so need to find the return wire from the TIPM to the lock mechanism.

Will also check for wire chafing on the door shut - but the car hasn't had much use (15k miles!) so would be surprised if it had worn so quickly. Then again, it's a Dodge, so nothing really surprises me

 

[Nitrogen]

there should be no chafing in the door shut A pillar, the wiring harness goes to the A pillar then there is a socket connector, then the door harness has a plug, they plug together in the A pillar door shut area, its very difficult to get too, and if you pull the rubber boot off it is quite hard to get back on, however not impossible, you could possibly find the wires behind the lower A pillar interior kick panel ?.

 

[Scar0]

See this thread to remove the door panel.
Inside door handle replacement Just so you can see how its done.
If you can get to the plug for the lock actuator. Here are the pinouts.(RHD) According to the manual I have.
1 TN/LG DRIVER DOOR UNLOCK DRIVER
2 TN/WT DRIVER DOOR LOCK DRIVER
3 VT DRIVER DOOR AJAR SWITCH SENSE
4 BK/PK GROUND
But most likely you will need to remove the carrier plate to access this particular plug.
I believe these are the pinouts for the A-pillar plug.
2 TN/WT DRIVER FRONT DOOR LOCK DRIVER
23 TN/LG DRIVER FRONT DOOR UNLOCK DRIVER
Of course you will need a ground wire.
But I'm not sure which one.
3 BK/PK GROUND
4 BK/RD GROUND
21 BK/WT GROUND
22 BK/TN GROUND
24 BK/OR GROUND

 

[Stig0r]

Thanks chaps. However, true to (Dodge) form, the flaming lock has started working again!

The wife used the car yesterday and made a couple of short trips. Later in the afternoon she noticed that the lock was operational once more!!?!?

Will monitor over coming days and see how we fare...

 

[Scar0]

LOL Isn't it always that way!

 

[Stig0r]

Sure is! Still getting intermittent operation. As the UK (RHD) models appear to have deadlocks. do you know whether the locking mechanism is different or can I order replacements from the US? I have a feeling drivers door and rear passenger door are both on their way out

 

[Nitrogen]

you could try generously spraying WD40 into the locking mechanism, it only takes a small amount of resistance for the mechanism to stop working. WD40 is not electrically conductive so don't worry about it getting into the electrics.

i would say the export Nitro lock mechanism is different BUT not 100% sure, normaly you can not order export Nitro parts in the USA, unless they are a common part to both markets.

 

[Scar0]

Sure is! Still getting intermittent operation. As the UK (RHD) models appear to have deadlocks. do you know whether the locking mechanism is different or can I order replacements from the US? I have a feeling drivers door and rear passenger door are both on their way out

Nope US and export have different part #.

 

[Stig0r]

Dang it!

Thanks Scar0. I had a feeling that woudl be the case. Anyway, so as a timely update, the lock failed completely yesterday. The pin is now stuck (so can't lock or unlock). Thankfully, it's done it in the unlocked position so I can open the door and get the card off etc.!

Will keep the thread updated with my findings as this seems to be a common issue.

I fear my challenge will be sourcing a replacement now that Dodge have pulled out of the UK. Jeep and Chrysler are still here, so hopefully I can find a local dealer who can order me a new part....

 

[Stig0r]

Hi again - OK, am struggling at the first hurdle, but really because I daren't risk damaging anything as getting parts here int he UK is a pain!

I've got the door card off, no issue there, but am now faced with the carrier plate. I've seen a few threads about removing the one on the rear door, but not the front?

I've removed all the 10mm bolts around the card. But the carrier plate seems to be fixed on the top right (in the area of the door lock pin). There's a small access cover here through which i can see a 10mm nut which I guess holds the exterior handle on? Do I need to remove that?

Also, I guess the glass is mounted to the carrier too - so will need releasing? How do I got about doing that (assuming through the 'sticker' cover on the door shut near the torx screws that hold the latch itself - does it need to be done with the glass up or down?

Some pics which may help (us both)

 

[Stig0r]

OK - after a bit of head scratching, I've got it all off! The hardest part in fact was to disconnect the electrical loom from the B-pillar! The reason being, you can only release the connector blocks from INSIDE the pillar!??!! Great design there Dodge. I ended up having to partly remove the door, then pull out the white plastic 'grommet' block from the B-pillar which then allows you to release the clips. Dumb design if ever there was one unless I've missed a trick somewhere?

Anyway, carrier plate is out and latch mechanism is removed. For reference, for a UK RHD Nitro Drivers Door Lock Latch Mechansimm Solenoid Assembly (for search engines the part number is P04589462AD C

Now the challenge of finding one...

Stay tuned

 

[Stig0r]

Another quick update - fortunately there's a Jeep/Chrysler dealer not far from me and Chrysler have stock of the lock Seems like they have undergone some modification/evolution over the years (unsurprisingly as for this one to have failed in only 24k miles is pretty poor). The new part number is P04589462AG (so from D to G ie. 3 further evolutions of the part). For info, it was £101.50 plus VAT (£121.90 all in). At least the new one comes with a warrantly I guess

One it's here, installed and hopefully working, I'll strip the old one down to see what failed? I'll need to drill out some press fit rivets, so not something I can do and then put back together again!

 

[Scar0]

Sorry I was up at our mountain property today or I would have given you some assistance.
Glad to hear you were able to source the part and get everything sorted.
It is interesting you had to get inside the "A" pillar/ pull out the block to be able to disconnect the plug. None of the SM I have mention that part! Good info to know...

BTW if you search the aforementioned part # leave off the "P0". Also the same latch is used in the KK Liberty (aka Cherokee over there).

 

[Stig0r]

Thanks Scar0.

Yes -the A-Pillar connector is a real pain. I even looked on the inside face (there's a panel you can pull down under the steering column that shows where it is - interestingly this seems to be where the extra lock relays are too), but you are looking at solid steel - no way to access the connectors from that side.

As I said, seems like a dumb design? I managed to find the SM instructions and it just says to 'remove electrical connector' - it neglects to say 'how'

Fortunately I knew that the part was common to the Jeep, which is why I used a local Jeep dealer to source it. Will bear in mind the tip re part numbers though as I think that I will also replace the rear door lock which has also been intermittent, before it fails in the locked position.

On that note, I was fortunate to have it fail whilst unlocked. How the hell would you get the door open if it fails when in the locked position?

Will do my best to post some pics later to help others who may encounter this on UK models. Thanks again for your quick replies - you and Nitrogen have both done excellent jobs helping Nitro owners up - keep up the great work