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07Lifted,4X4,6sp-man,3.7L
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Glad to lend a hand when I can.
Looking forward to the Pics. The more we have the better for all.
My SM says the same.
If the lock pin on the inside won't work then I guess you are just out of luck. Otherwise you could use the fob to unlock all the doors and reach over to the pin.
Oh, wait the key hole is on the passenger side over there. Use the key and crawl over... LOL
 

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All done and working again :)

The lock 'rocker' mechasim on the old unit was seized. I'll try and prize it apart to see what's happened, but the units aren't supposed to be servicable. The two sides are rivetted together for example.

The new part externally looks the same as the old. The only visible difference is that they seal up the casing with some tape. I would imagine that this is to stop water ingress (and corrosion) into the solenoid which sits at the bottom of the case when fitted to the door.

Installation was a heck of a lot easier when you know what you're doing :) The only bind is that again, I had to remove the door so that I could make the connections into the A-Pillar. Without 8-jointed fingers I can't see how else you could do it? This also makes it a 20-man job really as you need a second pair of hands to hold the door to avoid any damage to the paintwork!

As a precaution, I removed all the other door cards and sprayed as much lithium grease (with an injection pipe) into each mechanism as possible. As I mentioned, the rear was intermittent, but hopefully the lube job may provide a longer term solution. I tried to get a new latch but they are on backorder at the moment. The parts guy comments that 'Jeep keeps us busy' (in terms of parts) spoke volumes ;)

For anyone else in the UK who has this issue. Some handy numbers for you - these are all for export models (ie UK) and were found on http://www.moparpartsoverstock.com. The part numbers for the front/rear driver side match those given to me by the UK Jeep Dealer (as per the new lock which I just fitted too).

Drivers (RHD o/s) front door lock mechanism: 04589462AG ; 04589462AA; 04589462AB; 04589462AC; 04589462AD; 04589462AE; 04589462AF
Drivers (RHD o/s) rear door lock mechanism: 04589282AI ; 04589282AC; 04589282AD; 04589282AE; 04589282AF; 04589282AG; 04589282AH
Passenger door (RHD n/s) front lock mechanism: 04589469AG ; 04589469AA; 04589469AB; 04589469AC; 04589469AD; 04589469AE; 04589469AF
Passenger door (RHD n/s) rear lock mechanism: 04589283AI ; 04589283AC; 04589283AD; 04589283AE; 04589283AF; 04589283AG; 04589283AH
 

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Out of curiosity I just stripped out the lock mechanism as best I could. Unfortunately in the process of stripping it I freed off the lock mechanism - but by messing about with it I managed to re-create the 'binding' effect which was the problem (could not lock the latch).

The image explains better than I can. I looked like the pawl of the white cog had almost come out of the gap (made for it) in the black toothed piece underneath. There's a little roller bearing in the end of the white pawl, however, it appears to be possible for the black toothed part to become stuck in the tiny gap between the edge of the roller bearing and the plastic of the pawl. This effectively binds up the mechanism.

In some ways, I can see how this may also give intermittent operation. It wouldn't take much in the way of vibration to free the black tooth off - so the lock would work fine again. I would imagine a similar system is employed in each of the door latches.

Anyway, maybe this was something that was modified in later versions of the latch - I'm not about to strip down the new one to see as it's a one-way operation :)


Hope it helps someone else in future?
 

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07Lifted,4X4,6sp-man,3.7L
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Good news and great info!
Thanks for taking the time to post the Pics. They really help to understand what you were saying.
 

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Great thread everyone! And timely too as my drivers door is locked shut and simply refuses to open.

Any tips for getting things apart with the door in the shut position?

Can I even get the door card off with the door shut?! If so, can I then get the inner panel removed with the door still shut?

I understand I may need to do some damage to various trim panels and I accept that, so if I need to cut a large hole in a piece of trim in order to reach something else I'm ready to do that too.

@Stig0r - some fantastic photos there my man, cheers :)

I'll be starting this job at the weekend!
 

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Oh, and how did you get the carrier plate off in the end? You said you had trouble as it appeared to be stuck at the top?

And is it essential to unplug the loom? Again, I'm thinking I can't actually open the door yet... Can I remove the carrier plate enough to get my hand and some tools in to remove the lock mech? What do I need to unbolt to remove the lock mech?

Soooooo many questions :)
 

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Hi Rich - sorry to hear you're having troubles.

First thing to try is to get it unlocked 'normally'. Try disconnecting the battery for 20mins to see if it will reset.

If that fails, enter via the passenger door and drive it about for a bit. Get the interior nice and warm. Drive down a bumpy track - whatever you can to see if it releases. Ours was intermittent for a while, so I waited until it was unlockable before changing.

You can get the door card off with the door locked - but it will be a faff. Carrier plate too should be removable.

The hard bit will be the locking mechanism itself. This is in the door structure itself, behind the carrier plate and isn't even that visible :( You may have to resort to breaking it to bits inside the door - but hopefully it won't come to that.

Fingers crossed you can get it unlocked somehow - this will make life MUCH easier. Just don't lock it in the meantime!

Shout if you need any more info and I'll help if I can. Some good guides on here for the door card and carrier plate removal. Read first - attempt the job second :)
 

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Fear not, I've read 101 posts on the subject, with this probably being the most comprehensive so far :)

It's been broken for over a week, so it's been through all sorts of weather conditions and all sorts of driving conditions, it's not going to release itself by the looks of things. I've tried the suggested battery disconnect and the 'set the alarm off' trick, no joy.

Is it essential to unplug the wiring loom? This is the bit that worries me as I can't even open the door, never mind unbolt it :D
 

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No - to unlock the door you don't need to completely remove the carrier plate, as you should be ably to move it out of the way enough to get tot the lock mechanism, but it will get in the way :(

Just watch that the loom doesn't chafe on the door skin - easy to short or break a wire that way.

Once you've got inside - give the lock a good whack - it may do the trick to release if it's the pawl that's stuck.

Good luck!
 

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Uh-oh... I may have another problem.

I've just seen this photo showing the rear of the carrier plate:



The entire window mechanism is attached to the back?!

Can I detach this without opening the door?
 

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07Lifted,4X4,6sp-man,3.7L
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At the bottom of the carrier plate is a hole (covered by tape) which gives you access to the release tab (on the white part in the Pic)to let the window loose from the lift. The tab goes into a hole in the bottom of the window. You will need to lower the window to access it. Once the window is loose you will need to lift the window up and prop it in the closed position to remove the carrier plate.

The biggest issue I see is in order to remove the lock you have to have the door open.
 

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07Lifted,4X4,6sp-man,3.7L
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Honestly I don't think so. Looking at the above Pic, the deadbolt mechanism is internal to the lock. But you may be able to bang or jar it loose by smacking the lock. Or a combination of jarring the lock at the same time as using the unlock button on the pad, fob, the pull pin, or the inside door handle.
 

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07Lifted,4X4,6sp-man,3.7L
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Crud buckets! I just had another look and the lock is attached to the back of the carrier plate with slotted pins. But once the carrier plate is loose you may be able to slide the carrier plate toward the "B" pillar to get the lock bracket tabs loose.
I wish you the best of luck. This may turn into a new carrier plate and lock by the time you are done...
 

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On the above picture of the rear of the carrier plate, I can't see where the lock mech attaches to on that carrier?

Another thought I had (sorry to nick/edit your photo here @Stig0r) but what if I left the entire carrier plate in position and cut the top right hand corner out (see red box area on this pic). Would I be able to remove the lock mechanism that way? (then be able to open the door, then buy a replacement lock and a used carrier plate from a breakers yard and swap my bits over)

 

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Hi NitroRich, the best plan is, first try every trick to get the door unlocked, because even if you remove the carrier plate i don't think you will get the door open (as ScarO says ). even worse, on EXPORT Nitro's when the door locks, after about 15 seconds the doors then double locks, the double locking system disconnects all unlocking methods from the lock.

my questions now: did the door lock and then refused to unlock ?, did the lock freeze in cold weather, then stop working ?, or did it start with an intermittent fault ?.
 

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07Lifted,4X4,6sp-man,3.7L
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Rich, most likely that would give you access to the lock. But you will also have to bust open the lock to get to the internals to release the catch. Unfortunately the part of the lock facing the inside is the metal part, not the plastic.
 

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my questions now: did the door lock and then refused to unlock ?, did the lock freeze in cold weather, then stop working ?, or did it start with an intermittent fault ?.
Door was working fine, no intermittent issues or anything. Temp here in the
UK dropped to only -1c one morning and when I came to unlock it, the door pin popped up like usual but the door wont open. This was a couple of weeks ago now and since then the temp is back up to +10c and no matter how much I bang the door, it won't budge.

I'll try the alarm trick, and the battery disconnect trick first. Then I'll try to get the door card off, then with the card off I plan to lock/unlock in rapid succession at the same time as rapidly hitting the carrier plate with a hammer to see if I can dislodge something.

So cutting out that top-right hand corner of the carrier plate completely wouldn't then just allow me to remove the entire lock mechanism in one go and allow the door to open then? While the lock mech is still attached to the rear of the carrier plate?

Again, im fully expecting to have to physically break stuff in order to fix this :)

I'm also wondering how a main dealer would tackle the job if I took it to them instead?
 
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