Drivers door not opening
61 - 80 of 114 Posts
The lock/latch is screwed to the shut face of the door. So unless the door is open you do not have access to the screws to release the lock/latch from the door. And the closing pin the latch grabs onto has a large end on it, so the lock can't slide off the pin if the latch catch is still closed.
I'd pull the inside panel off and see if you can play with the inside door handle connecting rod to get it to pop open. Because the lock is attached to the carrier plate and the shut face of the door, you may not even be able to get the carrier plate off the door without breaking something.
There was a TSB about this but for the rear doors.
"If the door will not open, depress and let snap out the outside handle button until the door opens."
http://www.nitroforumz.com/threads/...side-handles-do-not-function.8585/#post-46715
I'd pull the inside panel off and see if you can play with the inside door handle connecting rod to get it to pop open. Because the lock is attached to the carrier plate and the shut face of the door, you may not even be able to get the carrier plate off the door without breaking something.
There was a TSB about this but for the rear doors.
"If the door will not open, depress and let snap out the outside handle button until the door opens."
http://www.nitroforumz.com/threads/...side-handles-do-not-function.8585/#post-46715
Joined
·
767 Posts
@Nitrogen Yup, the pin goes up and down like normal, the fault is 100% with the deadlock mechanism inside the main lock unit.
So, I'm VERY pleased to say, wondrous things happened today!
I moved the drivers seat forward as far as it would go to allow me access to the door panel trim T20 screw in the lower corner of the door panel. Once I slid the seat forward I then went to disconnect the battery, then came back and removed the screw.
Then I realised I'd have to reconnect the battery again in order to slide the seat backwards to allow me some room to start removing the rest of the door panel (the main door panel, not the hidden-away carrier plate).
So I reconnected the battery and I thought on the off-chance of it working, I pressed the button for the central locking to unlock all the doors. I heard all the usual noises and the door was still refusing to unlock. Then for some reason I thought what if I try to unlock the doors now using the remote key fob.
OMFG IT WORKED!!
I have NO idea how, but the action of me disconnecting the battery, waiting x amount of time, reconnecting the battery and then unlocking the doors with the remote keyfob (NOT the unlock button in the door panel itself) before I even tried it I knew it had worked because I heard the extra "whir" noise of the deadlock motor moving - something I've not heard it do since the day it broke.
Now quite sure why it worked this time I don't know? Every day since it broke (weeks ago) I have unlocked the doors with the key fob in the usual manner and the door refused to open. Disconnecting the battery has somehow reset *something* which meant that this time when I pressed the unlock button on the fob, it actually released the deadlock too.
Amazing...
FYI, I tried setting off the alarm too, that didn't do anything either.
So now I'm in a VERY relieved state of mind!
On monday I'll order a new lock mech (thanks for the part number @Stig0r !) and we'll be sorted.
The one thing I need to be careful of now is to NOT let the deadbolts activate. So in other words, I must NOT let the alarm 'set'.
I tried a few things, in order to lock the doors, but not let the deadbolts kick in too.
It seems that if you press the central locking button on the drivers door, then shut the door, it actually arms the alarm - I instantly hit the UNLOCK button on the key fob before the deadlocks came in (approx 30secs after the alarm sets).
The only way I can get all the doors to lock (and the boot/trunk) is to start the engine with all the doors shut, press the central locking button (so all doors & boot lock), turn off the engine, get out, and before closing the drivers door I can press the lock pin down on the drivers door, then shut the door.
This leaves all doors and boot/trunk locked, but ensures the deadlocks do not kick in.
I just need to remember to NOT lock the car with the key fob until I get my new lock mech
Thank you everyone for this amazing thread, the superb photos and detailed explanations and as ever, the incredible member support.
Once I get the old lock mech replaced (it'll be approx 2wks time), I'll do the same thing as Stig0r and bust it open to see if mine has suffered the same fate.
So, I'm VERY pleased to say, wondrous things happened today!
I moved the drivers seat forward as far as it would go to allow me access to the door panel trim T20 screw in the lower corner of the door panel. Once I slid the seat forward I then went to disconnect the battery, then came back and removed the screw.
Then I realised I'd have to reconnect the battery again in order to slide the seat backwards to allow me some room to start removing the rest of the door panel (the main door panel, not the hidden-away carrier plate).
So I reconnected the battery and I thought on the off-chance of it working, I pressed the button for the central locking to unlock all the doors. I heard all the usual noises and the door was still refusing to unlock. Then for some reason I thought what if I try to unlock the doors now using the remote key fob.
OMFG IT WORKED!!
I have NO idea how, but the action of me disconnecting the battery, waiting x amount of time, reconnecting the battery and then unlocking the doors with the remote keyfob (NOT the unlock button in the door panel itself) before I even tried it I knew it had worked because I heard the extra "whir" noise of the deadlock motor moving - something I've not heard it do since the day it broke.
Now quite sure why it worked this time I don't know? Every day since it broke (weeks ago) I have unlocked the doors with the key fob in the usual manner and the door refused to open. Disconnecting the battery has somehow reset *something* which meant that this time when I pressed the unlock button on the fob, it actually released the deadlock too.
Amazing...
FYI, I tried setting off the alarm too, that didn't do anything either.
So now I'm in a VERY relieved state of mind!
On monday I'll order a new lock mech (thanks for the part number @Stig0r !) and we'll be sorted.
The one thing I need to be careful of now is to NOT let the deadbolts activate. So in other words, I must NOT let the alarm 'set'.
I tried a few things, in order to lock the doors, but not let the deadbolts kick in too.
It seems that if you press the central locking button on the drivers door, then shut the door, it actually arms the alarm - I instantly hit the UNLOCK button on the key fob before the deadlocks came in (approx 30secs after the alarm sets).
The only way I can get all the doors to lock (and the boot/trunk) is to start the engine with all the doors shut, press the central locking button (so all doors & boot lock), turn off the engine, get out, and before closing the drivers door I can press the lock pin down on the drivers door, then shut the door.
This leaves all doors and boot/trunk locked, but ensures the deadlocks do not kick in.
I just need to remember to NOT lock the car with the key fob until I get my new lock mech
Thank you everyone for this amazing thread, the superb photos and detailed explanations and as ever, the incredible member support.
Once I get the old lock mech replaced (it'll be approx 2wks time), I'll do the same thing as Stig0r and bust it open to see if mine has suffered the same fate.
hi guys i have the problem with my 2007 nitro ive tried all the tricks to get the door open but no joy ive now got the drivers seat removed and door panel off all screws out for that inner panel but cant get it off was wondering if anyone has heard anything to help me get the door open
Welcome to the forum rickie67. When you have a chance, head over to the Newbie Section and say "Hi".
Tell us a little about yourself and your ride.
That way we can welcome you all proper like.
Sorry to say what is in this thread is the best we have here.
Tell us a little about yourself and your ride.
That way we can welcome you all proper like.
Sorry to say what is in this thread is the best we have here.
Glad you got the door open Rick.
In a way us US owners have it lucky with not having the "Dead bolt" lock on our rigs. It makes them easier to break into, but we will never have to deal with it getting stuck locked closed. LOL
I was thinking back to an earlier post in this thread relating to rolling the window down, getting out, locking the doors, and setting the alarm. Sticking your hand in the open window and waving it around. Thus setting off the alarm.
This kinda made sense if someone was asleep in the rig and the driver got out locking the doors. The person inside would be trapped with no way out.
I'm betting this is a computer programming fail safe for just that scenario. Interior movement causes the computers to release just the deadbolt, allowing the person stuck inside to open a door.
Anyway, Only problem now is you can't lock the doors or your right back where you were...
Do you have a new lock/latch on the way?
In a way us US owners have it lucky with not having the "Dead bolt" lock on our rigs. It makes them easier to break into, but we will never have to deal with it getting stuck locked closed. LOL
I was thinking back to an earlier post in this thread relating to rolling the window down, getting out, locking the doors, and setting the alarm. Sticking your hand in the open window and waving it around. Thus setting off the alarm.
This kinda made sense if someone was asleep in the rig and the driver got out locking the doors. The person inside would be trapped with no way out.
I'm betting this is a computer programming fail safe for just that scenario. Interior movement causes the computers to release just the deadbolt, allowing the person stuck inside to open a door.
Anyway, Only problem now is you can't lock the doors or your right back where you were...
Do you have a new lock/latch on the way?
Joined
·
10 Posts
rickie67 have you had any issues with locking mechanism since dowsing in WD40? Mines given up IN THE LOCKED POSITION!!! So exploring all avenues at the moment.
Joined
·
1 Posts
I know this is a super old post.... But this has really saved my bacon!!
My drivers door wouldn't unlock in the closed position.... Read the whole thread... Managed to drag the door card off... Lots of seat moving..... Then got to the point of looking at the inner panel.....
By this point I stopped for a bite to eat.... So I disconnected the battery (for the 90th time!!!) after about 20 mins came back and reconnected the battery and voila...
Door sprung open!!!!
I'm not sure if the chair has anything to do with it but like Stig0r it's the only thing I did differently than I've been doing for the last few days trying to fix...!!!!
Thanks for the great thread and I'm guessing this isn't the 1st time it's happened to my rig as the door card is broken near the lock switch that was covered in carbon fibre tape..... So. I'm guessing someone originally has had to jam their arm in the door panel while closed..!!
My drivers door wouldn't unlock in the closed position.... Read the whole thread... Managed to drag the door card off... Lots of seat moving..... Then got to the point of looking at the inner panel.....
By this point I stopped for a bite to eat.... So I disconnected the battery (for the 90th time!!!) after about 20 mins came back and reconnected the battery and voila...
Door sprung open!!!!
I'm not sure if the chair has anything to do with it but like Stig0r it's the only thing I did differently than I've been doing for the last few days trying to fix...!!!!
Thanks for the great thread and I'm guessing this isn't the 1st time it's happened to my rig as the door card is broken near the lock switch that was covered in carbon fibre tape..... So. I'm guessing someone originally has had to jam their arm in the door panel while closed..!!
Joined
·
10 Posts
Glad you got it unlocked. I’ve still not got around to replacing the dodgy dead lock system yet so still not locking the car at all. It did get locked once by accident by one of the kids and was a long winded attempt that took few hours before the magic sequence unlocked it again (I’m still unsure what the sequence is). Keep us posted on any progress regarding fixing and I’ll do the same.
Joined
·
2 Posts
These deadlock locks we have on the models in the UK are abysmal. I've had these fail on our Nitro and our Avenger. They fail on the Jeep Wrangler, Cherokee and Compass too. Snipping the green wire with the red tracer inside the door when door is open will prevent the deadlock motor from ever deadlocking the door again, leaving only the standard lock operation that they get in the US. I do this mod on all Dodge models that I have with the deadlock system before they cause me any problems. There's nothing worse than getting stuck in a car where the driver door won't open and you can't get out of the passenger door due to parking near a wall! I'm surprised this design was ever permitted. Hey ho, these things are on Vauxhall/Opel Zafiras too I understand, so we're not alone.
hi my door locked and i did the battery thing foe a few months but it locked completly last week --i got door card off and inner plastic liner exposed and loose form inside removed the 10 mm bolts --we managed (by luck ) as we hit the lock and door opened ( seemed to be working but didnt close it in case --so we then cut the green wire with red tracer great idea that to disocnnect the daft deadlock --so the door worked ok for a couple of days and i thought my cutting wire had worked -- but when car was unlocked the driver door locked and the door wouldnt open --back to square 1 -- i cant remember the sequence of getting door open excpet we banged the lock inside
it was unlocked on central locking obviously --so will try to replicate the banging to open trick --but maybe we didnt cut the right wire --eg there were 2 green cables -one with a clearly red tracer -- which is now cut --could it be the other green with a tracer we couodnt figure ( which seemed to have either white that was going red or pink or red or pink that had faded ) --if i get it open -- can i cut all the wires and just lock door via the button then lock the passenger door manually from outside --question do you reckon that i need to rewire the green red -- to get door to open again ? ps are you anywhere near aberdeen scotland as you seem to know about wires colin66 --plus any suggestions to get door open again would be good --i was so happy wed got it open yesterday and no idea how it locked if green wire red tracer cut -- plus -- we cant get window off to get this inner panel completly off to access the lock any ideas with door closed --and would it be possible to manually do something to lock in closed position evn if i have to cut it out ( woudl that break the window operation )
all i want is access to get in and out-- i woudlnt mind to have lock car manually pressing in buttons --any suggestions welcome its a 2008 nitro not sure what trim i think se --we read about tpim what does that mean --tried removing alarm fuses as well --have tired bashing inside door with hammer as well -- what possed dodge to design a door that locks anyway
Joined
·
649 Posts
Oh dear…having read this thread it would appear my driver’s door lock has pulled the same stunt. Happened today with no intermittent faults of any kind. Locked the door on the key fob, took dog for a long walk, came back and door wouldn’t open. Had to crawl in from passenger side and slide into seat. Drove home and had to slide back out across passenger seat to get out.
I’m guessing this is the deadlock issue mentioned with door lock mechanism failing in the worst scenario locked position.
looks like I’ve got a pretty nasty job ahead trying to get the darn door to open 🤦♂️
I’m guessing this is the deadlock issue mentioned with door lock mechanism failing in the worst scenario locked position.
looks like I’ve got a pretty nasty job ahead trying to get the darn door to open 🤦♂️
Joined
·
5,885 Posts
if there is nothing happening from the handle inside or outside then my guess would be the deadlock,
i can help you open the door without breaking anything, but you will need to get down and dirty in the drivers footwell (with the door closed and the seat in place ), or maybe it can be done from under the hood,
i can help you open the door without breaking anything, but you will need to get down and dirty in the drivers footwell (with the door closed and the seat in place ), or maybe it can be done from under the hood,
Joined
·
649 Posts
Hi Nitrogen, yep nothing happening inside or out using the handles.
Is this an electrical or mechanical fault?
Gonna try the battery lead reset first, if that doesn’t work then was thinking driver’s seat out to give more room to get to the door card.
I’d appreciate any help you can give buddy.
Is this an electrical or mechanical fault?
Gonna try the battery lead reset first, if that doesn’t work then was thinking driver’s seat out to give more room to get to the door card.
I’d appreciate any help you can give buddy.
Joined
·
5,885 Posts
forget the door card (for now ) you cannot get past the deadlock, the deadlock works electrically within the locking mechanism, see if you can pull off the plastic kick panel in the drivers side footwell (next to the A pillar) there are 2 relays hanging there try switching them over and see if the drivers door opens, if the door does not open, somehow check if both relays are activating, ie: pull one relay press keyfob, switch relays press keyfob, you get the idea, see how that goes,
just one thing i thought of, if the deadlock solonoid in the locking mechanism was sticking, then you could try pressing the unlock on the keyfob whilst lightly thumping the door handle, it could just help free it off,
just one thing i thought of, if the deadlock solonoid in the locking mechanism was sticking, then you could try pressing the unlock on the keyfob whilst lightly thumping the door handle, it could just help free it off,
61 - 80 of 114 Posts
