[SthglosHI]

Thanks as always.

1. reset to see if it helps
2. Lightly thump whilst using key fob
3. Cry if it doesn’t work
4. Get to the kick panel relays and play with em
5. Cry a bit more if no joy

this is phase 1…🤦‍♂️

 

[SthglosHI]

Driver’s seat removed, kick trim panel removed.

Battery leads off system allowed to reset for over an hour whilst removing seat, by joining disconnected battery leads together.

reconnected battery…no joy door still not opening.

Silly question Nitrogen, I assume the relays are in the driver’s/ right side footwell? Lost the light of day couldn’t see 😁

...can't see any relays in here, or are they further up behind the dash?

 

[Nitrogen]

yep they should be there in your photo, i will check my Nitro tomorrow (it was 10 years ago i last looked at mine),

 

[SthglosHI]

Appreciate your help 👍

 

[SthglosHI]

on reading the SM it refers to RHD vehicles as having secondary door lock/unlock relays (P390 & P391), I'm assuming this is the deadlock relays we're talking about. it gives me some test options, but doesn't show me where the relays are located. It states "remove the secondary door lock/unlock relays from the I.P end bracket (behind right kick panel).

Guessing here I.P. must be instrument panel??

Guess I need to crawl further in and look up to find the so called "end bracket"

The unlock signal wire from C7 at the TIPM is LG/DB so by tracing this wire it should lead me to the relay if I can't physically see the darn thing.

 

[SthglosHI]

Having looked through the workshop manual I can't find any wiring diagrams for the secondary door lock circuits, only the schematic in the SM. The only reference to relays somewhere behind the instrument panel is in the electrical section referred to as "relay micro Thatcham" x2. I'm guessing these are the correct relays # 5604892AA (now superseded by #68382350AA).

 

[Nitrogen]

not sure what IP is you say right kick panel, 99% sure thats where mine are,
secondary relays are the deadlock relays, Thatcham is the security system, these relays are part of that system,
its common for alot of wiring diagrams not to contain info regarding the security system ( i think its for security reasons ), i didn't take a look at my Nitro yesterday because of the bad weather, will try today,
in your photo of the right kick panel there is a metal plate, the realys could be behind there, i think that plate is a requirment of the Thatcham security standard, But not 100% sure, i think that plate was already removed on my Nitro because i don't remember seeing it,

 

[Nitrogen]

easy way to find the relays, get in the foot well, head first, ( glad its you and not me) lock the doors with the keyfob, after about 20 seconds you will here the relays activate the deadlocks, hopefully you can pinpoint the relays location,

 

[SthglosHI]

😂 at least the driver’s seat is out that was a painful enough process lying across the centre armrest/handbrake lever.

Great suggestion with the key fob, if they’re in there I’ll find em 🥴

 

[Nitrogen]

also in your photo i see a crimped bullet connector with nothing connected as if something has been modified

 

[SthglosHI]

Yep you’re right I saw that too, the first and only other owner was a lady driver who never even changed a spark plug. I’ve owned it for the past nearly 12 years as the second owner. No work has ever been carried out behind the kick panel by me or anyone else, unless something was done here on one of the recalls I had done by Dodge dealers over the years. I assume others may also have this weird lead maybe under the black tape.

I’m also curious about the white multi connector above it not connected to anything 🧐

 

[Nitrogen]

well i didn't get to look at mine today by time i got home it was dark and raining Again, i was also wondering what the white socket in your pic was for,
anyways have you still got your E-pace, if so hows it going ?.

 

[SthglosHI]

I’m not gonna be looking at the Nitro until the weekend if you could have a look when you get time I’d appreciate it buddy.

yep still got the E-pace with about 14 months left to run on the contract. It’s a nice, quick, comfortable car for work. Jaguar stitched me up though, no satnav, no apple CarPlay and none of it can be upgraded by the dealer (only on the production line) 🥴

not sure what I’ll go for next when it comes up for change. Fancied the new Land Rover discovery but it’s too darn expensive😁

 

[Nitrogen]

i will take a look for sure but the wind and rain is relentless and getting dark early,
friend of mine has the 2021 discovery he loves it, i'd realy like the new defender (basicly a discovery according to Richard Hammond), but won't be getting anything for a few years my children are starting to leave school and learning to drive so no money in the kitty,

 

[SthglosHI]

😂 I know exactly what you mean, my daughter left school many years ago and still a financial drain on the bank of mum and dad.

I meant to say the new defender not discovery, I was hoping I could replace the E pace with one but at well over £500 a month I couldn’t justify it. Mind you if money was no object the Hummer EV would be a target of mine 🤦‍♂️

p.s. the metal plate you mention is an integral part of the dash frame, there's one on each side kick space. I also just had a closer look at that bullet connector in the photo it looks for all the world like a DIY crimp connector...I'll have a close up physical look at it the weekend and see if I can locate the wiring colour in the wiring diagrams. That white multi connector could also be a DIY job. When I bought the car it had a horrible aftermarket hands free kit installed which I promptly removed this may be something to do with that, but I've never had the kick panel trim off which is all a bit odd. Can't see this has any bearing on my door problem though 😞otherwise the issue would have cropped up years ago.

 

[Nitrogen]

the relays are mounted high up on that dash frame, here is a pic

press the keyfob and check if they are both clicking, i think i have a wiring diagram of the security relays, i"ll see if i can find it, bit of luck you won't need it,
i presume you tried the master door switch to see if the door unlocked ?

 

[SthglosHI]

Ah fantastic thanks a bunch for crawling in there really appreciate it.

I’m keeping everything crossed the relay is the fault, don’t want to think beyond that just yet. The weekend is now cleared for the job…stayed tuned 🥴

On zooming in on your picture the light green/dark blue tracer wire connected to the right hand relay is the signal wire from C7 at the TIPM. That's one point to check if signal is being sent on pressing key fob unlock button. This is where I wished I had my own personal Starscan unit, as trouble codes B198A, B198B & B109B would help immediately identify possible faults without resorting to 'old school' methods.

The SM also mentions issues that may arise from the Wireless Control Module sensing problems with the RKE fob transmitter (battery low or transmitter error), I suspect this is not the case but will check my backup key fob see if that makes any difference.

 

[SthglosHI]

Checked backup key fob and door master switch, both work as they should…still no joy door lock still fast asleep.

next job secondary relays 🙄

 

[SthglosHI]

True to form nothing is ever simple…not the secondary relays, it had to be the bl**dy door lock

spent all day removing the door card and the window regulator from the inside. So yes it can be done.

the door card was the easy bit, the window regulator not so. Getting all the bolts out was easy enough, but the final snag is a black plastic shroud around the door latch referred to as the “presenter, latch, front door” in the parts manual. No other way but to break it free from the window regulator human hands are just not made to slither into the gap.

the wiring harness needs to be completely unclipped, from all components including the hideous door latch. Then pushed through the front grommet hole at the front of the window regulator carrier plate. The next bit is to try to unlatch the two link rods from the door latch end, I had to break the clips again due to the gap being only enough to get a long flat head screwdriver down in side to lever the clips off.

only then did the window regulator carrier plate come out.

oh by the way the rubber door seal needs to be completely removed before the door card has enough space to lift up and off.

So now we have all the covers and guts removed from the inside of the door.

next job is to work out how the heck I can break the door lock to get the door open!!!!!!! If anyone out there knows a way please shout it out, cos as it stands the door is still not budging

that’s it for this weekend apart from sourcing parts I’ve broken in the process. Great to see most are discontinued!!

 

[Nitrogen]

i was really hoping you would not have to go further than the relays, as you probably now know the locking mechanism is bolted to the door from inside the door-shut area which you can't access, next thing i would try is to find the unlocking solonoid wires and feed them direct with 12v and hopefully the door pops open,