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Discussion Starter #1
I tried several ways and costed some effort and money by ordering all kind of parts but finally got them.
All went well with the install.
Just some minor grinding on the splash shield was needed as a modification.
Then mounted the caliper adapter and tried it would fit
Then tried to together with the 13.1” drilled and slotted rotors.
Bummer it hit the rotor when all bolts were tied up.
So looked for some shimming rings and reinstalled it and now the rotor and caliper adapter didn’t hit and turned easily.
Finally fitted the dual piston brake calipers with the padkit for the calipers and everything fitted.

Got several pictures of my setup but got some kind of problems with uploading the pictures.
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
07Lifted,4X4,6sp-man,3.7L
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Well done!
Did you convert the rear as well?
In post 3, Pic # 2, it looks like the bottom caliper mounting bracket bolt is just barely in. Was it just not tightened yet?
Did you have to modify the caliper mounting in any way to get them to fit, or was it a straight bolt up?
What size wheels are you using?
Why did you need larger brake rotors?
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks scar
Nope did nothing (yet) on the rear. Dont know If I wil be to we’ll see.
Do you know anyone who did??

Your right About the bold, it was just to see how everything would fit after I altered the splash shield and as can be seen it all worked out.

About straight up Bolt on! Yes and no. I Did order all kind of mopar parts before and tried the fitting but in the end still not the right parts who fitted.

When I would have modified the brake caliper (safety device) in Any way and the road enviroment inspector notice this at the obligated yearly inspection I probably had to reinstall the stock breakings before I hid the roadster again. So nothing is modified besides the splash shield which is not a safety device. Besides some shimming rings on the inside of the adapters all went Well with the Bolton.

I use 20” wheels with 275/45 tires and have about >4cm / 1.6” space in between the caliper and the wheel. So with this setup you probaly need at least 17” wheels.

I needed more braking for looks but I also haul bigger boats for my other passion as posted here in the picture and elsewhere here on the forum.
75EB606F-074C-4AA0-929A-8AFF02F7CB36.jpeg

But mainly needed new brakes because I again had a sticky stock front caliper for the fifth time.:mad:

After 220.000km the engine and transmission is going strong but the braken where lacking.
Also going to exchange arms and bushings because in the back these are all worn out and in front they are beginning to tear on the front upper arms and want to Exchange to JB upper arms.

But back to the brakes modification its still in process because These Will be powdercoated along with the arms and all other metalparts who I gonna refit. Got my own powdercoating tools So that can be easy.
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
07Lifted,4X4,6sp-man,3.7L
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Thanks. I totally get it now.
No others here on the forum have gone with larger disk brakes on the rear, or the front for that matter.
My concern with larger on the front, and not the rear, is the rear will try to pass the front on hard braking.
But as you know the rear may be harder to convert due to the drum-in-hat design in the rear for the parking brake.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks. I totally get it now.
No others here on the forum have gone with larger disk brakes on the rear, or the front for that matter.
My concern with larger on the front, and not the rear, is the rear will try to pass the front on hard braking.
But as you know the rear may be harder to convert due to the drum-in-hat design in the rear for the parking brake.
Normally the front brakes has the most brakeforce compared to the rear. Also in racing you see that when the driver forgot to adjust his brake proportioning valve to the front and the rear will lock under heavy breaking, the rear will break out.
Just found a link http://knowhow.napaonline.com/front-brakes-vs-rear-brakes-whats-the-difference/
So I don't see a problem (yet):D

Harder to convert is not the case I think.
Its just that you need to resource the right parts and make sure it will fit. But for now it will stay stock.
On my other car (GMC Typhoon) I did the rear conversion with a conversion kit from Baer Brakes. That car is normally with drums on the rear only and I converted it to drum/disc brakes like we have on our Nitro's.
 
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Khaki Nitro Nut
07Lifted,4X4,6sp-man,3.7L
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True, normally, but the Nitro seems to be rear brake bias for some reason. Maybe it has to do with being rear wheel drive...?
Most have had to replace the rear brakes 2 times and 1 time on the front. Myself included. I have replaced the rears and the front are still original.
I have not looked into the pad materials on rear Vs the front brakes.
I supposed if the front are ceramic and rear are composite, the rear would wear out faster. Visually they appear to be the same.
 
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Discussion Starter #9
True, normally, but the Nitro seems to be rear brake bias for some reason. Maybe it has to do with being rear wheel drive...?
Most have had to replace the rear brakes 2 times and 1 time on the front. Myself included. I have replaced the rears and the front are still original.
I have not looked into the pad materials on rear Vs the front brakes.
I supposed if the front are ceramic and rear are composite, the rear would wear out faster. Visually they appear to be the same.
Never heard this story about the brakes.o_O
Also other cars with rear wheel drive have more break force in front like Mercedes ( some parts are similar to Merc.ML as our Nitro).
In my case (R/T version) my fronts wear out a lot faster than the rear pads. already replaced the front 2 times and now for the thirt time and the rear still stays on.
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
07Lifted,4X4,6sp-man,3.7L
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It is strange. I have never seen this on other rigs before either.
The questions started when folks had to replace a lot of rear brake pads a couple years after the first year of production.
I have not kept track of the Nitro "trim" level (SXT, SLT, R/T), or Export vs US versions, for the pad replacements. It is possible Trim and export may be different. I know some export already use larger disks on the front (332 mm, vs 302 mm) (We have had questions about them). More info here.
Also the R\T had an "option" for "heavy duty brakes". Not sure exactly what "heavy duty brakes" included...
But we can't argue with the statements posted about having to replace the rears 2 times to 1 time for the fronts, myself included.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Dont If its allowed but For who’s Interested I finally got some more info for mainly the European part with a Nitro or Liberty KK. Because shipping from EU to US/CAN. is costly but can be aranged.

Stagevision (where I got the parts from) made a set complete with all parts needed for a bigbrake upgrade with twin piston calipers.

Costs are €596,00 + shipping ex. taxes.
Everything included but the rotors and fits our Nitro’s with already big rotors.
You have to add €200,00 for the drilled+slotted 13.1” rotors.

Thats About 325 bucks cheaper than I paid in total on the parts I bought for trying etc.

But you also can order the rotors any where you want.
Specs for these rotors is the same as stock hat dimensions but are minimal 13” and 28mm thick.

Shipping can be to anywhere as far the shipping companies can deliver there.
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
07Lifted,4X4,6sp-man,3.7L
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Great info Dutchty. Thanks for sharing it for others interested. :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Where did you buy this kit from? I google stagevision and nothing related comes up.
Its locally here in my town.
Stage Vision refitment and power adders for cars and boats.
email is [email protected]

if you want I can arange something for you.
 

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Its locally here in my town.
Stage Vision refitment and power adders for cars and boats.
email is [email protected]

if you want I can arange something for you.
This is great! I have towed a couple different heavy trailers behind my Nitro R/T 4x4, and the 4.0L V6 and 5-speed automatic transmission were more than up to the task, but the brakes were woefully inadequate, while coming down a steep mountain road. I had to stop in a "turn-out" and wait for several minutes, perhaps as long as 30 to 45 minutes, for my brakes to cool down, before continuing with the moving trip, and I have been thinking of how I could install larger, more powerful brakes, ever since that day. Thanks for this info, I'll definitely look into purchasing these parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
This is great! I have towed a couple different heavy trailers behind my Nitro R/T 4x4, and the 4.0L V6 and 5-speed automatic transmission were more than up to the task, but the brakes were woefully inadequate, while coming down a steep mountain road. I had to stop in a "turn-out" and wait for several minutes, perhaps as long as 30 to 45 minutes, for my brakes to cool down, before continuing with the moving trip, and I have been thinking of how I could install larger, more powerful brakes, ever since that day. Thanks for this info, I'll definitely look into purchasing these parts.
just lmk if you want me to arange something with them like shipping or so?
 

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do you have part numbers?
how much did everything cost?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
do you have part numbers?
how much did everything cost?
Dont have any numbers!!
On the parts were only the numbers you can see on the brake pads.

The BBK is now known under NITRO/LIBERTY BBK1801 and can be ordered for €599,00 ex. S/H and taxes. at [email protected] and ships worldwide.
This is without the brake rotors, optional they can deliver performance rotors, drilled and slotted 13.1"/333mm in diameter for about €200 the pair back then.
When ordered in one package there was some discount on the grand total but shipping cost will be much HIGHER I think, because of the heavy weight of these rotors.
 
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