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Front driveshaft issues

2501 Views 13 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  2ndgen
Hello all! 2007 dodge nitro auto, 3.7l
So I had discovered a couple months back that the front driveshaft boot was torn to all hell. Replaced it with a new driveshaft, the one off of 1aauto on google search for 170$
replaced it and everything seemed fine, no rattling change sound.. for about a week. The new driveshaft has the same problem, torn boot.
I noticed that the driveshaft has some play rotating about a half an inch. Not to mention slight play up an down less than a mm(due to no grease and bearings getting worn out.
Is it something internal in the transfer case that needs to be fixed that will cause premature failure to the boot I.e the chain( with the 1/2 in play causing too much torque on the little guy?
Or I could of ordered too small of a driveshaft? ( it was about 1/2 in too short new, but easily flexed to fit, seemed natural. 🤷🏻‍♂️
also to make it more mind boggling, I do know I need to replace passenger sidecv axle on front(has slight rear in boot) will that cause it to tear prematurely?
ONE MORE question, can I drive it without front driveshaft? Doesn’t seem like it would harm anything, down know if I’ll get a 4wd light on. But I do know the front driveshaft spins no matter what even if not in 4wd. And obviously I wouldn’t be using 4wd if it’s disconnected.
So, wrong part ordered? Or loose chain in transfer case? Or total moron? Thanks for your input, looking forward to it. First pic is original , second(newer looking is aftermarket)
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Oh and have rotational play in park, from the transfer case coupling, tires on ground.
take it out and you can still drive.....just no 4WD. Mines been tore for awhile actually...need to rebuild it or replace the shaft as well. As for the cause i am unsure.
Ok ima take it out bc that rattling noise drives me crazy and nervous. But I think it might be my front cv axle boot being torn and having play. Dunno if I want to just diagnose it as that tho. I know I have play in park, engine off on the transfer case coupler., which I can imagine the 1/2 inch play over a short period of time, the torque would rip it to shreds. The front drive shaft spins even though not in 4wd but the nitro is full time rwd. Any other input? Confirmations? Is there a tensioner in the transfer case?? Anyone rebuilt it? What can I expect for parts needed and headaches to come? Thanks
Also with no movement on front diff, will it trip a sensor to say 4wd or anything along the lines?
No you shouldn't get any fault codes with the front shaft removed,
the torn new boot looks very dry, like there was no grease inside ?.
I had this problem also rear boot shredded and cv stuffed , I removed it and have been driving for a couple of months no problems but now I need to get 4 wheel drive back and am going to rebuild the rear cv but my marks have gone from the rear diff to the driveshaft for Re aligning it when I put it back on , is there any way of finding which way I need to put it on Re: the welded weights on the shaft for balancing , thanks all
the shafts are balanced before they are installed at the factory, so if you put the shaft back in a different spot then i don"t think it is a big deal (i have done this in the past on other vehicles and its been fine), just make sure the mating faces are clean and they bolt up nice and square to each other,
if you buy a new shaft there is no specifics telling you which way to unstall it,
yep kind of thought that but always worth asking , thanks
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i'll check in the workshop manual, just in case the Nitro has some kind of installation specifics, i'll let you know,
The Chilton online manual says there are installation alignment marks on the front shaft and transfer case flange.

All bolts get blue loctite.
Bolts on front CV joint to transfer case torque to 22 ft-lbs.
Bolts on shaft flange to differential axle flange torque to 80 ft-lbs.
Thanks will have a good look and spray with plenty of degreaser see what I can find 👍🏻
No there are no alignment marks,
the manual is telling you to make your own reference marks before dismantling, 1 mark on the transfer case end flanges and 2 marks on the axle end flanges (maybe so you don't try and install the prop shaft the wrong way around), the manual is asking you to keep the axle and transfer flanges in there original orientation to each other, now the vehicle has been driven getting the gears in the tranfer case and the axel back to there original positions is probably not possible, so if you can't everything should still be fine,
if you where to change out the transfer case for a new one, then all alignments would be new to each other,
yah, i wouldn't think rotational alignment should matter. it's round. it's been balanced. it spins, and it wasn't balanced while attached to either end.
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