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615 views 8 replies 6 participants last post by  Nitrogen 
#1 ·
Hi, I have a 2011 Nitro Heat 4.0L 4X4. I'm trying the fix the below items.

Transmission: fluid and filter change.
A/C not working: possible clog. Freon coming out of the compressor relief valve.
Wipers don't go off right away.
DIY paint job.
 
#3 ·
Hi, I have a 2011 Nitro Heat 4.0L 4X4. I'm trying the fix the below items.

Transmission: fluid and filter change.
A/C not working: possible clog. Freon coming out of the compressor relief valve.
Wipers don't go off right away.
DIY paint job.
Transmission is a pain in these vehicles. There is no dipstick to check the fluid level. If you already know that you have the correct amount of ATF, then you can drop the pan, collect the fluid you've drained, measure it, and put that same amount back in. But, if you don't know if you're starting out with the correct amount of fluid, then you won't know how much to put back in, after you've drained it.

The "correct" way to check the fluid level involves a chart from Chrysler, checking the fluid temperature, and then cross referencing the fluid level with the temperature.
 
#8 ·
Hi, I have a 2011 Nitro Heat 4.0L 4X4. I'm trying the fix the below items.

Transmission: fluid and filter change.
A/C not working: possible clog. Freon coming out of the compressor relief valve.
Wipers don't go off right away.
DIY paint job.
Update and a little back story: with gas prices going earlier this year, I let my Nitro sit for months. A neighbor asked my wife to move it, and she complained that it was running very badly. I do a test ride, and it's running rough, and the check engine light is on. I limp it to AutoZone to get the codes checked, and I get P0303 (cylinder 5 misfire), P2311 (Ignition coil 4 secondary circuit- insufficient Ionization) and P0455 (Evap system Large leak). I open the hood and see evidence of a rodent problem. I remove the intake manifold to find my wires have been chewed through. I clean everything up and fix the wires, and voila, it runs great.
I go to drive it, and the transmission temp light is on and doesn't change gears. How can the transmission light be on so soon after starting the engine and before even driving anywhere? It seemed like too big of a problem for me, and I took it to AAMCO to get checked out. They test drive it, check it out and quote me between $2100 and $4000 to rebuild or $3500 to replace it with a used transmission. I wasn't willing to spend more than $1000, so I got my own OBD2 reader, trans filter, and fluid (less than $300). I check the codes: evap system leak (I'm not too worried about it), U0101 (Lost Comms with TCM), and P0113 (Intake Air Temp Sensor 1 Circuit High), It needed the fluid change anyway, so I start with that. The hardest part about it was getting the exhaust out of the way. Because I read both that you don't need to drop the exhaust and that you do, I tried not dropping it, but that was more of a pain than anything, making the job take so much longer. I concluded that you have to drop the exhaust.
All the bolts came loose except for one; however, I was still able to get it down enough to remove the transmission pan. After the fluid and filter are changed, I ran the OBD2 reader again, and no surprise, nothing changed. I look for hours to see if any other wires were chewed through, and nothing. I check to make sure all the grounds are secure. I find a wiring diagram to see where the TCM is, started checking connections, and I find the problem. While I was fixing the misfire, I was messing with the connections and wire looms (brittle as can be), I thought I pushed the TCM one back together all the way, but it was very stiff and didn't fully connect (I feel so dumb and relieved at the same time). I ensured it was in all the way and didn't come apart when tugged on; I erased the codes to see, checked it again, and it works. I saved myself thousands of dollars and learned a lot along the way. I want to tackle the A/C next. 😆
 
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