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Discussion Starter #1
So I was cruising down the highway in my 2009 Dodge Nitro R/T (4.0L V6 SOCH Engine) and decided to gun the engine to hit passing gear when my check engine light came on. I continues to flash and ding off and on. The car started running really rough and I barely made it home.

I did the key dance trick to see the engine code and I see P0204.
Does anyone have any idea what may have happened and what the fix would be?
Thanks to anyone who responds.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I looked up the code and found the following...
P0204 Injector 4 - circuit malfunction Wiring, injector, ECM

Can someone tell me the steps to replace the fuel injector?
Also need to figure out which injector is #4.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Oh, if I could only find a manual for this thing. Anyone know where I can get one? I tried techauthority.com and came up empty handed.
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
07Lifted,4X4,6sp-man,3.7L
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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the reply. The first thing i'm going to do is to perform a visual inspection to make sure I'm not dealing with a bad wire connection.

After that, I'm going to go after the fuel injector.
So, correct me if I'm wrong, the #4 injector is associated with cylinder #4 and will be found on the left side (drive's side) in the middle between injectors/cylinders 2 and 6, correct?

Also, after reading the thread you linked, it sounds like I have to remove the intake manifold to get to the injectors, correct?

Also, if I have to remove the intake, I'm assuming that I will need to buy a replacement intake gasket, correct?

What are the intake torque specs and tightening order?
I'm assuming the standard criss-cross pattern of tightening down the intake bolts to the Dodge torque spec would be the proper order.

Any tips are much appreciated my friend.
Again, thanks for replying.
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
07Lifted,4X4,6sp-man,3.7L
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1 Yes
2 Yes
3 In the linked thread see posts 14 -18
4 In the linked thread see post 12 upper intake.
4a Start in the center, working out in a cross pattern.

Fuel rail mounting bolts torque 100 Inch Lbs.
Be sure to relieve the fuel rail, fuel pressure, before removing the rail.

In order to get to the wires you will have to remove the upper intake.
Stupid design IMO.
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
07Lifted,4X4,6sp-man,3.7L
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How many miles on our 4.0?
If you are close to 100K you might think about doing a plug change, timing belt and water pump, since you are part way there anyway.
These are required service at 100k miles.

On the other hand it may be best to figure this problem out first, then do the timing belt and water pump.
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
07Lifted,4X4,6sp-man,3.7L
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2 ways to relieve the fuel pressure.
1 Remove the fuel filler cap on the rear.
Pull the fuel pump fuse. Start the rig and let it run till it dies. Try to start it until it will no longer run, your good to go.

2 Not so safe!
Once you have access to the fuel rail, there should be a relief valve on the rail. It will have a screw-on cap on it, with what looks like a tire valve inside. Wear eye protection! Us a rag to catch any fuel, push the valve in.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for your response. I think I will go with the safe way. :)
According to my owner's manual, fuse J9 is a green 40 amp fuse and has a description of "PZEV Motor/Flex Fuel".
Is this the correct fuse?

Life would be so much simpler if I only had a manual. I can't find anything in print or on CD. I was thinking about a subscription to Mopar Tech Authority for access to online service manual subscription but not sure if it is worth the money. They want $35 for three days access. Do you think it is worth the money or know of a better source for a manual?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I’ve got the upper intake off, and see no valve on the fuel rail. Does the entire fuel rail for all six Injectors have to be removed in order to replace a single injector? Or can I just lift one side up to get the single injector in?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Problem Solved! I managed to get the fuel injector replaced without killing myself. The car runs like a champ. Thanks for the assist. Much appreciated.
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
07Lifted,4X4,6sp-man,3.7L
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Sorry I missed your other posts.
It's funny because the SM I have does not tell you which fuse to pull. It simply says to look at the label on the TIPM cover to identify the fuel pump fuse.
If I recall correctly there are 3 with "fuel" in the description. Since I have not had to do this to my rig yet, I would have used the same process of elimination as you did. Starting with J9 and working my way up.
It is also strange there is no relief valve on the fuel rail. I know the 3.7 has one...
But good info to know. Thanks!

Anyway, Glad to hear you and your Nitro are both happy once again. :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
A few last notes...
I found the fuse via the labeling inside the fuse cover. M25 is simply labeled fuel pump.
I did not have to remove the fuel rail entirely. It’s basically a “U” shaped pipe that loops around to all six injectors. The fuel rail is held in position by four 13mm bolts, two on the left and two on the right. I completely removed the two on the left side and backed out the two on the right about 1.5 inches. I expected fuel to dump out when lifting the left side to get at the injector so after blowing out the entire area with compressed air I stuffed a bunch of paper towels around all injectors. Then as I wiggled the fuel rail to lossen the left bank injectors when about 1 cup of low pressure fuel leaked out which was quickly absorbed by the paper towels. I was able to lift the left side of the rail just high enough to replace #4 without disturbing the right bank at all.

After getting all put back together, I took it for a test drive on interstate 65 for about 10 miles. The last 5 miles of highway had no traffic so I gunned the engine to 100 mph without issue. I was passing telephone poles like they were a picked fence. Probably not the smartest thing I’ve ever done however; since this is my wifes car I wanted to make sure it would perform when driving hard because she drives like Steve McQueen:)

Last question, where can I get a manual?
I really hate to pay tech authority for a subscription. It sounds like a ripoff to me.
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
07Lifted,4X4,6sp-man,3.7L
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Thanks for the update and more details on the project.
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
07Lifted,4X4,6sp-man,3.7L
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30,638 Posts
I have the set of 4 books. Picked them up on the bay.
I also have the E-bay PDF version on disk. It is not great, with missing parts and errors in some sections. I.E. the NAG 1 trany info is mixed with the 42RLE trany info/visa-versa, Pic of a door panel instead of a trany, Wire diagrams are incomplete, No DTC, and some sections are just missing.

IMO a "subscription" just isn't worth the price for what you get.
The 4 books provide all I will ever need. And they came in real handy when I had to replace my clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I’m not sure what caused my injector to fail in the first place but since I replaced it all is well. This has got me thinking about how long it will be until the next one fails. I’m thinking about buying some injector cleaner to pour into the gas tank.

In your opinion, are any of the cleaners worth the cost. Do they really help? Is there any one particular injector cleaner that stands above the rest?

I would like to perform some sort of preventative maintenance. I may just replace them all with new ones but that can get very expensive.
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
07Lifted,4X4,6sp-man,3.7L
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Every one has their own preference for injector cleaner.
Personally I use seafoam. Don't know if it is any better/worse then others or not.
Follow the instructions on the bottle of whatever you get.
Also remember you will have a slight loss of power till it runs thru, and you may see more then the usual white smoke out the exhaust.
 
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A few last notes...
I found the fuse via the labeling inside the fuse cover. M25 is simply labeled fuel pump.
I did not have to remove the fuel rail entirely. It’s basically a “U” shaped pipe that loops around to all six injectors. The fuel rail is held in position by four 13mm bolts, two on the left and two on the right. I completely removed the two on the left side and backed out the two on the right about 1.5 inches. I expected fuel to dump out when lifting the left side to get at the injector so after blowing out the entire area with compressed air I stuffed a bunch of paper towels around all injectors. Then as I wiggled the fuel rail to lossen the left bank injectors when about 1 cup of low pressure fuel leaked out which was quickly absorbed by the paper towels. I was able to lift the left side of the rail just high enough to replace #4 without disturbing the right bank at all.

After getting all put back together, I took it for a test drive on interstate 65 for about 10 miles. The last 5 miles of highway had no traffic so I gunned the engine to 100 mph without issue. I was passing telephone poles like they were a picked fence. Probably not the smartest thing I’ve ever done however; since this is my wifes car I wanted to make sure it would perform when driving hard because she drives like Steve McQueen:)

Last question, where can I get a manual?
I really hate to pay tech authority for a subscription. It sounds like a ripoff to me.
I'm doing this same job , quick question did u have to unclip(safety) clips on the injector side u weren't working on? i'm working on right bank and can't get any play in the fuel rail to just pop out injector 6
 
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