Dodge Nitro Forum banner

1 - 20 of 33 Posts

·
Khaki Nitro Nut
Joined
·
29,740 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
How-To add a RAM air intake.
I know this is in another thread, but thought it would make a good How-To.
I also wanted to test it in the rain before creating a How-To for it.

Parts:
1 - 3" 90° PVC elbow
1 - 3" PVC pipe cap cut off to 3/4 "
12" - 3" smooth boar flexible RV sewer pipe
Tools:
25 Torx
Flat blade screw driver
Phillips screw driver
Electric hand held drill
2 1/2" Hole saw
1 1/2" barrel sander
Hand saw

Remove the air filter box; Take the top off and remove the filter. Loosen the clamps holding the flexible air inlet duct and pull off, disconnect the CCV hose by pulling straight back, disconnect the air intake tube on the front of the filter box (It is held in by a push nut on the grill side and 2 tabs on the filter box side. I had to use a screw driver to pry the tabs off.), pull the filter box straight up. It's in there pretty good so you will have to pull hard.
On the air box, mark and drill a 2 1/2" hole, then use the barrel sander to enlarge the hole just big enough for the 90° pipe elbow. (You want a tight fit.) I used a sanding barrel because a 3" hole saw would have made the hole too big.



Cut off the top of the PVC pipe cap to to make a ring 3/4" wide, this will make a securing ring for the 90° PVC elbow.



Insert the 90° elbow into the air box and press on the ring. I did not use glue, as I wanted to be able to remove it if need be.



Remove the front grill using the Torx, Phillips, and Standard screw drivers. (How-to grill removal.)



On the right front, next to the radiator, there is a plastic trim piece that I marked to make the hole for the RAM air.



Drill a 2 1/2" hole, and then make the hole larger with the barrel sander to just fit the future piece of flexible sewer pipe. Watch out for the A/C hoses!) It is a tight fit.



Place the grill back on the rig and mark the location to drill the hole for the Ram air pipe, by tracing the above hole from the inside.



Once again, drill a 2 1/2" hole and use the sanding barrel to make the hole just large enough for the pipe. (Be careful not to drill into the front grill cross members.)



Reinstall the front grill. Here is a look at the holes from inside the engine compartment.



Insert 12" of RV sewer pipe through the holes to the grill. Install the stock air intake tube to the back of the grill. Install the air box / 90° elbow pipe assembly, while inserting the sewer pipe into the 90° elbow. (Soapy water helps to get it to slide in.) You will have to push the air box down hard and make sure the rubber grommets are lined up. (You may have to bend the A/C tubing to prevent rubbing. If you do, be very careful not to kink the tubing!) Reattach the flexible air inlet duct and the CCV hose.



Put in a High Flow filter (I used a K&N) and secure the top to the air box.
You can not see anything very well from the engine compartment so no pic of that.
Final pic from the front.



In combination with the "Sewer pipe air inlet duct" I made. There is a noticeable difference in acceleration.

I was concerned about the induction of water through the Ram air tube, so I wanted to test it before creating this post.
It was raining pretty hard the other day so I took the Nitro for a drive. I went around town, then on the freeway for about 10 miles and back home. Popped the air filter out and looked in the bottom.
The filter was dry, the air box had a wet spot maybe the size of a Quarter by the Ram air inlet, next to the factory drain holes in the bottom. I was Very pleased to say the least.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
561 Posts
Is there any way to raise the air induction intake higher? I'm prone to driving through alot of mud out here. The four wheel drive hasn't let me down yet.
 

·
Khaki Nitro Nut
Joined
·
29,740 Posts
Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Thanks all for the compliments.

desertrat,
I was not able to locate the induction tube higher because of the anti-freeze reservoir. I also wanted to leave the stock induction tube to help prevent hydro-lock.
If you were to use the stock induction tube you could adapt from the oval to a round tube, or rebuild the front of the air box. Then punch it straight threw.
The stock induction tube also enters at a downward angle from the top. If watter got in, it would have no way to get out. The stock drain holes are very small and would take quite some time to drain a lot of watter out.
I located mine toward the bottom of the air box. That way if watter got in, it could get out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,323 Posts
Super job and a great article with very good pictures.....Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Nice DIY job...looks neat and seems to do a good job with the air flow...I,m
retireing from my work in a few months....guess what we make...PVC pipe and
fittings....Cheers..Steve.
 

·
Khaki Nitro Nut
Joined
·
29,740 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Thanks every one. It still works great... No watter in the system, even in the heaviest down-pours. :))
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16,212 Posts
Another one of......Congrat's mark. I missed this thread..

:rep:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
I was wondering if you noticed better gas mileage and maybe more power with your setup? I've very interested in this. Thank you for such a well written (w/pics) tutorial.
 

·
Khaki Nitro Nut
Joined
·
29,740 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
City mileage went down with this and my other additions. I just can't keep my foot out of it! :Racing:
Highway mileage did increase about 2-3 MPG. There was a definite gain in power with all my mods.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Just got done doing this mod today and wouldn't you know that when I bought the flex hose, for some oddball reason, I bought 4" instead of 3"; for the life of me, I can't figure out why I'm such a glutton for punishment. Anyhow, the process went together pretty well so far but I do need to run back to Lowes and get the correct hose, it got dark on me. The only problem I ran up on was trying to get the airbox back in. :SHOCKED: That blasted thing just does not want to sit back in there any way I do it with the old air tube hooked up. It fits pretty snug without mounting the grommets but I don't want it to be flopping around; I guess it's just going to be a "trial by fire process" to get the airbox mounted again. Oh, :i_rolleyes: and I did screw up the driver side marker light somehow. Don't know if it is a bad connection or what but to get my hand in there, gotta take the grill loose again. Oh well, that's progress for me as usual. Thanks for the well laid out directions; it was really easy to do by them.

Richard
 

·
Khaki Nitro Nut
Joined
·
29,740 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
:coolthumb: Looking forward to the outcome. Glad the instructions were easy to follow. :smileup:

Remove the old air tube from the air box, install the air box, then snap down the old tube onto the air box. I had the same issue when I did mine, but didn't think much of it other than saying a few choice words. :52: You would not think it would make a difference but it does.
I could not find any smooth inner bore flex tube at Lowes. I had to get mine from an RV store.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Remove the old air tube from the air box, install the air box, then snap down the old tube onto the air box. I had the same issue when I did mine, but didn't think much of it other than saying a few choice words. :52:
I could not find any smooth inner bore flex tube at Lowes. I had to get mine from an RV store.
Hmmm, didn't think of that and I'll see if I can't run down an RV place tomorrow/today. I was kinda thinking that maybe I could connect with a piece of pvc; it would only need to be about 4 inches long or so and the hole at the grill is tight enough to hold like a clamp. And if I had that 3rd hand, it would also make things so much easier. :D Thanks for the tips....

Richard
 

·
Khaki Nitro Nut
Joined
·
29,740 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
I used the flex tube because I wanted cushion around the A/C lines. It also allowed for a little play when trying to put everything back together.
 
1 - 20 of 33 Posts
Top