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Warning!!! Always disconnect the Neg (-) battery cable and wait 10 minutes before performing any work on the Nitro! Or the air bags could go off!
Do this at your own risk.
Here is a pic of the handbrake mechanism.





The basics of the E brake are as follows. The spring at the front is the return spring for the arm. The center pulley is for the brake cable which you can see lower left and the spring in between the pulley and brake arm is the activation spring, which is the one we are concerned with.
The activation spring is clamped to the arm and is loosely wrapped around a drum which is a part of the pulley. When the E brake arm is raised, the spring tightens and locks on the drum and rotates the pulley which in turn tightens the cable and activates the rear pads.

Now the problem is that there is too much E Brake arm travel before the spring clamps the drum and rotates the pulley. The spring only clamps the drum after about 4 or 5 clicks. The other end of the spring is open ended meaning it is not clamped in any way to the drum. It is held in position by a tab which sets the position and limits the clamping force. It is that tab you need to modify. See diag below.





At first I moved the spring end to the other side of the tab and I had it fully engaged after 2 clicks but wasn't sure what would happen after long term usage and I didn't want the spring to lock solid and lock up my rear brakes as well. So what I decided to do was tap down the tab to let the spring activate the drum sooner and it worked like a charm.

Here are the steps to do this mod.......

1. Remove the front lower console cover by pulling up. Remove the 4X4 switch wires.





2. Remove radio fascia by pulling out gently. Start at the bottom and work up slowly. Remove wires. This is more for the re-assembly than dis-assembly.





3. Remove four screws. One either side the console and two inside the console box.





4. Unzip the cover around the E brake arm. For those whose zipper is broken, just use a safety pin to activate the release clip. Lift the arm to it's max position. Slowly lift the rear of the console and work it over the arm. Pull away backwards.





5. Undo four screws and remove the black box near the mechanism. See first pic. You can now see clearly the problem tab.





6. It is this tab we are going to modify. Notice the forward angle of the tab.



7. Using a hammer and a steel punch (long nail about 6'' will work) gently bend the tab backwards until it looks like this. Don't go too far so that the spring doesn't hit the tab at all. The tab is there to stop the spring locking solid on the drum. I could have gone a little bit more but I liked the feel so that's where I left it.





What this does is to remove the wasted arm movement and lets the spring clamp the drum sooner therefore activating the drum and pulley sooner.

Check the feel of the e brake arm and how it works. I have mine locking on four clicks and totally solid on five. If your happy it re-assembly time.

Replace the black box.
Lift the arm to max position. Now that the arm locks lower down it is harder to get the console on. You need to push the console deep under the radio fascia area and work the cover over the arm. Not easy, just be patient and wiggle a lot.
Replace console screws.
Replace wires and radio fascia.
Replace wires and front cover.
 

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good job G!!! reps when I can ;)
 

· Dodge Nitro Forum
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I think they have the E brake that loose to help the assembly of the console unit. After the adjustment the console needs a bit more time to assemble and when on the production line that may not be possible.
 

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07Lifted,4X4,6sp-man,3.7L
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Great post CL. :worshippy: :rep: When I can.
Is it possible to move the fastened end of the spring? Can't tell in the pic if you can loosen the pressure clamp and pull the spring forward a little.
That way you wouldn't have to bend the tab. I'd hate to have the tab break off...:SHOCKED: I don't see a way to repair it.
You know, because some of us have a hard time controlling our selfs. :3-smash:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Great post CL. :worshippy: :rep: When I can.
Is it possible to move the fastened end of the spring? Can't tell in the pic if you can loosen the pressure clamp and pull the spring forward a little.
That way you wouldn't have to bend the tab. I'd hate to have the tab break off...:SHOCKED: I don't see a way to repair it.
You know, because some of us have a hard time controlling our selfs. :3-smash:
The fastened end is held to the arm by a plate which is riveted in two places so there is no adjustment there. You would need to bend the tab back and forth many times before it broke off. I work with this type of steel all the time and trust me, if you just tap it down gently like I did, there will be no problems.
 

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:rep:Great Post

If I understand this correctly, the spring pressure rather than the brake lever itself puts pressure on the brakes. This means that tension on the cable is limited to the spring tension. This is different than other e-brakes that I have worked on where the lever is directly hooked to the brake cable. I guess they don't want some one snapping the cable or something like that.

This is something I may do if I have the dash apart for some other reason in the future.

I think I may try the easy way out and use one of the cable slack adjusters from the auto parts store.

Ken
 

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07Lifted,4X4,6sp-man,3.7L
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The fastened end is held to the arm by a plate which is riveted in two places so there is no adjustment there. You would need to bend the tab back and forth many times before it broke off. I work with this type of steel all the time and trust me, if you just tap it down gently like I did, there will be no problems.
Bummer, But thanks for the info. I'll have to give it a try next time I have mine apart. I'll have to change my motto as well " If you can't fix it get a bigger hammer" :chuckle:
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
:rep:Great Post

If I understand this correctly, the spring pressure rather than the brake lever itself puts pressure on the brakes. This means that tension on the cable is limited to the spring tension. This is different than other e-brakes that I have worked on where the lever is directly hooked to the brake cable. I guess they don't want some one snapping the cable or something like that.

This is something I may do if I have the dash apart for some other reason in the future.

I think I may try the easy way out and use one of the cable slack adjusters from the auto parts store.

Ken
As to the spring pressure, I'd say yes and no Ken. It does rely on the spring to drive the pulley but due to the amount of coils wrapped around the drum the spring locks very tight and becomes as if it where a solid block attached to the drum.

As for the slack adjusters, I thought of that but space is very limited. Here is a pic of the only bare cable I could see where those could be used. I actually made a design of my own to use but could not get enough bare cable to mount it on.



And this is where the cable splits to the back brakes. This is underneath the back seat. From here on it is all protected.



It really only takes about 30 mins to do this mod from start to finish.
 

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07Lifted,4X4,6sp-man,3.7L
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CL FYI, the tab you bent on yours to fix your issue was straight up on the new one I just got. On my old one it was bent forward.
Go figure? Yours is the exact fix Dodge is doing! (recall number H28) But instead of bending the tab they are replacing the whole thing!

So, for those with an automatic transmission Do CL's fix.
Warning: Disconnect the Neg (-) battery cable and wait 10 minutes. The little black box with the yellow labels in CL's pics, is the main air bag controller. You don't want your airbags to accidentally go off!
:rep: Again if I could. Very good work!
 

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Smashing ! tech. Hand brake mod. Clear easy to follow pics. and captions.
Well presented.
 

· Dodge Nitro Forum
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
CL FYI, the tab you bent on yours to fix your issue was straight up on the new one I just got. On my old one it was bent forward.
Go figure? Yours is the exact fix Dodge is doing! (recall number H28) But instead of bending the tab they are replacing the whole thing!

So, for those with an automatic transmission Do CL's fix.
Warning: Disconnect the battery, the little black box with the yellow labels in CL's pics, are the side impact air bag sensors. You don't want those to accidentally go off!
:rep: Again if I could. Very good work!
Maybe they read this forum.........:chuckle:
 
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