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In the process of changing spark plugs and #3 injector and have no idea how to remove the fuel rail to access the injector. Any advice is appreciated.
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
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WARNING: The fuel system is under pressure even with engine off. Before servicing fuel rail, fuel system pressure must be released.

CAUTION: The left and right fuel rails are replaced as an assembly. Do not attempt to separate rail halves at connector tube . Due to the design of the tube, it does not use any clamps. Never attempt to install a clamping device of any kind to the tubes. When removing the fuel rail assembly, be careful not to bend or kink any tube.

A. Remove gas cap.
B. Release fuel pressure.(Pull the fuel pump fuse and run the rig till it dies. Repeat until it no longer starts.)
C. Disconnect the negative battery cable. (Very important!)
D. Remove air inlet hose at the throttle body & air box.
E. Disconnect fuel line latch clip and fuel line at the fuel rail. (A special tool will be needed)
F. Remove vacuum/vapor lines at throttle body.
G. Disconnect all electrical connectors at the fuel injectors. Push red colored slider away from injector . While pushing slider, depress tab and remove connector from the injector. The factory fuel injection wiring harness should be tagged (INJ 1, INJ 2, etc.) for injector positions. If the harness is not tagged, mark them yourself before removing them.
H. Disconnect electrical connectors at the throttle body.
I. Remove all 6 ignition coils.
J. Remove four fuel rail mounting bolts .
K. Gently rock and pull left side of fuel rail until fuel injectors just start to clear the holes in the head. Gently rock and pull right side of rail until injectors just start to clear the head. Repeat (left/right) until all injectors have cleared the head holes.
L. Remove fuel rail (with injectors attached) from engine.
M. Disconnect clips that hold fuel injector to the fuel rail.

It's always a good idea to replace all the injectors at the same time. If one failed, then more are likely to.
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
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wait there is a BUT, there are 2 types of fuel rail connector, type 1 and type 2 the part # above is type 1,

and type 2 is FIH 9055-2

type 1 is tethered to the fuel line, and type 2 is not ( whatever that means ).
 

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that is tethered, so it is type 1.

the rectangle clip is the tether and is just there to stop the connector coming apart, you must remove this before using the special tool.

in most case when it says special tool, normaly a screwdriver, some mole grips and a large hammer is all you realy need, but in the case of the fuel line, i think the special tool is needed ( it releases a spring cilp inside the connector), a few members with the 2.8l deisel engine have broken this type of connector and had to buy a new fuel line.
 

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WARNING: The fuel system is under pressure even with engine off. Before servicing fuel rail, fuel system pressure must be released.

CAUTION: The left and right fuel rails are replaced as an assembly. Do not attempt to separate rail halves at connector tube . Due to the design of the tube, it does not use any clamps. Never attempt to install a clamping device of any kind to the tubes. When removing the fuel rail assembly, be careful not to bend or kink any tube.

A. Remove gas cap.
B. Release fuel pressure.(Pull the fuel pump fuse and run the rig till it dies. Repeat until it no longer starts.)
C. Disconnect the negative battery cable. (Very important!)
D. Remove air inlet hose at the throttle body & air box.
E. Disconnect fuel line latch clip and fuel line at the fuel rail. (A special tool will be needed)
F. Remove vacuum/vapor lines at throttle body.
G. Disconnect all electrical connectors at the fuel injectors. Push red colored slider away from injector . While pushing slider, depress tab and remove connector from the injector. The factory fuel injection wiring harness should be tagged (INJ 1, INJ 2, etc.) for injector positions. If the harness is not tagged, mark them yourself before removing them.
H. Disconnect electrical connectors at the throttle body.
I. Remove all 6 ignition coils.
J. Remove four fuel rail mounting bolts .
K. Gently rock and pull left side of fuel rail until fuel injectors just start to clear the holes in the head. Gently rock and pull right side of rail until injectors just start to clear the head. Repeat (left/right) until all injectors have cleared the head holes.
L. Remove fuel rail (with injectors attached) from engine.
M. Disconnect clips that hold fuel injector to the fuel rail.

It's always a good idea to replace all the injectors at the same time. If one failed, then more are likely to.
My 07 Nitro 3.7 service light came on, running rough etc... etc.. Had it scanned at local auto parts store and came up with PO301 #1 cylinder. I thought it was coil. Went home and pulled the spark plug and was surprised at how wore down it was. Almost 60 thou, should be 40. Problem solved right? I changed all 6 plugs, to lazy to check my records for last time, other than knowing it has been awhile. Hooked the battery back up and went for a test drive. No service light, running smooth. Couple of hours later started it up to park in the garage and started running rough and light came back on.
Went to a different auto repair store and was informed of a PO201 injecter circuit/open #1 cylinder.
Does that mean there might be a electrical issue and not a dirty injector? Changing out an injector is something I don't think I want to mess with.
The light stays on but sometimes runs o.k. or smooth after driving and turning the car off, or sometimes it runs rough also, so that kind of sounds like a electrical/circuit thing. The only special tool I have is a 3lb hammer.

I fear taking it to the shop and have them tell me all 6 injectors need to be replaced if it is only an electrical issue.
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
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Comparing the two codes:
First things on the P0301 trouble shooting are all electrical related.
ASD relay output, Injector control, and coil control circuits.
First things on the P0201 trouble shooting are; ASD relay output, Injector control circuit open or shorted to ground. Then the injector and last the PCM.
Without testing, it's hard to say if it is electrical, wires, plugins, or an injector(IE shorted internally/stuck).
If you are going to replace one injector, might as well do them all. If one died, the others are soon to follow.
 

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Injector for #1 cylinder was replaced. PO201 injector fault.. tested injector and found missing pulse need to start with injector. ( what was on the service slip )
Also had a BG fuel service which cleans the fuel lines, injectors, throttle body, and removes carbon build up on valves and intake.
Has a little more zip now. Just not sure for how long. I was told that the other injectors were checked for good spray/output and looked good.
 

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In Step E it says a special tool is needed what might this tool look like or where might i beable to get one
Under $10. at NAPA. Part #776-908 1 . Found it thanks to this forum that listed a snap-on number. It fits two sizes- 5/16 and 3/8 . 5/16 worked easily on my 4.0 Just fit it around the line and press it back into the fitting to release the clamping and pull out the fuel line, fuel line disconnect.jpg similar to a shark bite connector. fuel line disconnect pkg.jpg
 
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