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Discussion Starter #1
I had an issue with my Rear Driver door not wanted to lock or unlock all the time. The issue turned out to be the Door Latch (which has the locking motor in it).

These instructions are general. As always, proceed with caution, take your time, and be safe. I also want to point out, I am not an expert.

With that, lets get started.

Tools Needed:

T20
T27 (I believe)
10mm Socket
10mm Deep Well Socket
Small Screw Driver

1. Start by Disconnecting the Negative (-) terminal of the battery and make sure it will not touch the battery terminal by accident.
2. Open the door and remove the panel. To remove the panel, you will need use the small screw driver to remove the bezel around the inside door opener handle. An old credit card, plastic reference card, or something like that to help protect the plastic. Using the small screw driver, pry the top of the handle bezel. You will also want to use the small screw driver for removing the covers inside the handle, and for the one at the bottom of the door. The screws are T20. Where the door handle is, there is a 10mm bolt. Once those three are out, lift up on the panel to remove it.






3. Once the panel is off, you will need to disconnect the window control switch and the mid range speaker (if you have the premium sound system).




4. Once that is done, you can set the panel off to the side.


5. Now, disconnect the rod that connects to the door handle. Press the plastic tab to release it, then push it out. It isn't necessary to remove the handle, but you can as well.


6. On the edge of the door (close to the door latch), you will see a cover. Remove the cover to access the power plug for the latch. Unplug the power and pushing the grommet though so you can remove the wires. You also want to do this for the wire harness coming in to the door so the carrier plate won't have any more wires attached to it.



7. Remove the speaker using a T20 and disconnect the cables to it.
8. Remove the nine 10mm bolts around the carrier plate.
9. Now for the hard part, disconnecting the cables from the Window system. I was not able to remove plastic piece from the window (if anyone knows how to do this without breaking the window or the plastic piece, please share it), so I remove the motor for the window, then popped the cable off the top pulley behind the carrier plate. This caused the cable to slide out of the window piece.



10. Before you remove the carrier plate, you will need to use the T27 (I think) to remove the three screws from the latch on the side of the door. You will also need to use a 10mm deep well socket with an extension to loosen the nut next to the latch system.


(You can also disconnect the rod for the manual door lock/unlock through the small hole and work it out, this is the white plastic connector)
11. With the window up, the screws removed and the nut loosened, you should be able to slide the carrier plate towards the inside of the truck to get the latch part out. I did have an issue with the speaker wire as it is attached to the carrier plate. If you have trouble getting it out, you can remove the piece that holds the latch from the carrier plate.
12. To remove the plastic piece that holds the latch, you need to push the latch and plastic piece towards the carrier plate (or the carrier plate to the latch if you still have it in the door) and it should release. It is just a slotted fit.
13. Once the latch is outside the door, you will need to removed the rod for the inside door (a teal plastic connector) and the outside door (on the back side with a red plastic connector).



14. The unit slots in to the plastic piece, so just remove the bad latch unit and install the new one (the top part has a catch latch so it can't be removed without lifting the tab, the bottom part you can push the new one in and the old one would just slide out).

Now it is time to assemble. Just follow the instructions backwards to reassemble. To hook the window system back up, I got to the point where I was ready to put the screws in. I pulled the pulley that the motor hooked up to out a little to unwind one of the cables so I had some slack to work with. Do not remove all of it. Once it is loose, you can get the cables over the pulley's in the carrier plate and make sure the ends are connected into the plastic window piece.

Once that is done, you want to try and get the cables back into their tracks in the plastic wheel for the window motor. Once that is done, you need to push it back towards the hole. Now the back will go in first and keep you from putting it all the way in. Use a flat head screw driver to lift it out a little to push the wheel into the hole. You only need to do this if you followed what I did in this document.
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
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Well done!
This is a great addition to our DIY How-To section.
:rep:
 

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Just had to perform this same repair and your guide was invaluable. Thanks so much for providing it! The only thing I did differently was that I was able to pop the window out of the regulator slot (the white piece of plastic).

The way I did it I rolled the window all of the way down and removed the little piece of black tape near the bottom of the door. This exposed the tab on the white plastic holding the window in.The key that I found to getting the tab out was that I had to push pretty firmly straight down on the top of the window in the middle. This caused the little tab holding the window to flex outward just a little bit. Then with a little extra push from a flat blade screwdriver, it popped right out.

Hopefully anyone else that runs into this issue will find that to be a little easier than undoing the cabling. Because when I went to put it back together, the window just snapped right back in place.

Once again, thanks so much for the guide. It made this a super easy repair.
 

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I cheated a little there. I had my wife slip her skinny arm through the speaker hole to guide it. She said she pulled the tab back slightly to make the window slide in easier.

So if you can enlist a helper for a minute, that might make it go a little smoother.
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
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Glad to hear it went smoothly. Thanks for the tips as well Matt!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Just had to perform this same repair and your guide was invaluable. Thanks so much for providing it! The only thing I did differently was that I was able to pop the window out of the regulator slot (the white piece of plastic).

The way I did it I rolled the window all of the way down and removed the little piece of black tape near the bottom of the door. This exposed the tab on the white plastic holding the window in.The key that I found to getting the tab out was that I had to push pretty firmly straight down on the top of the window in the middle. This caused the little tab holding the window to flex outward just a little bit. Then with a little extra push from a flat blade screwdriver, it popped right out.

Hopefully anyone else that runs into this issue will find that to be a little easier than undoing the cabling. Because when I went to put it back together, the window just snapped right back in place.

Once again, thanks so much for the guide. It made this a super easy repair.
I am glade the guide was a help. I know when I did it, I went off instructions for replacing something else in the door (can't remember what it is at this time). Using that, I was able to figure my way through it.

I tried to remove the plastic piece from the window, but it didn't seem like it wanted to move and I was worried I would break my window. I am glade someone figured out an easier way to get it off instead of messing with the cables and pulleys.

If you had any other gotchas while doing the install that I didn't cover, or if you saw I missed or instructed wrong, please share. As I mentioned, I am not an expert and I don't do this for a living, it was just my procedures I did and my experience after the fact.
 

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Nope. Everything else in your guide was perfect. That had to be one of the stranger jobs I've had to do in order to replace a door lock actuator. Most of the times in the past, I just popped off a door panel and reached my arm up in the hole to disconnect it.

So your guide took an overly-complicated procedure and made it a breeze. I would've ended up with a broken window without it, sure as anything. Because my go to response when something doesn't come out easily is to just pull on it harder. :D
 
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