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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys, I'm new to this forum and hoping you can help. Got an 07 plate dodge nitro 2.8 crdi, it's got a humming noise between 20-60 mph, it disappears above 60 and below 20. Sounds like front end. Ive had it up on the ramp and can't feel any play or hear any noises on the bearings, any suggestions?
 

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I work so I can... SQUIRREL!
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Welcome to the forum, Manners13! Good to have you here. Enjoy!

From your description, that's pretty indicative of a bad wheel hub bearing. Do you notice more on one side than the other? Is it loudest at any particular speed?
 

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I'm finding it hard to determine if it's passenger or drivers side, it is more noticeable at around 35 mph.
 

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That sounds about right then. A bad hub bearing will usually sound loudest when going 35-45 MPH. As for which side... Sometimes it is hard to tell which it is. Best to have both sides looked at.
Most mechanics shops will inspection for a reasonable price. Some for free! I would suggest you have it diagnosed. Average shop price for the repair will be $200-400 range, in most cases.
But if your the DIY type, you should be able to do the repair for under $150.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Are the bearings bolted on or are they pressed into the hub? And any idea on the prices of the bearings? Thanks for the help
 

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Hub bearing is pressed into the hub assembly which attaches to the axle. It is best just to replace the entire hub assembly. The hub assembly can usually be found for about $100, give or take.
I have had to replace them before. The job isn't too bad. Just make sure you have the right tools for the job. And I highly recommend using a repair manual to reference. Especially, if you've never replaced one.
 
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Khaki Nitro Nut
07Lifted,4X4,6sp-man,3.7L
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Welcome to the forum Manners13.

When you have a chance, head over to the Newbie Section and say "Hi".
Tell us a little about yourself and your ride.
That way we can welcome you all proper like.

Also check the front prop shaft CV joint at the transfer case.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok thanks. What's the best way to see if the cv joint is defective? And do they have grease nipples on?
 

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Check out this post for info on the C/V
I will explain the "how to" but this is just informational. I am not responsible for any mistakes you may make in your project. First I found the C/V boot was cracked and grease coming out all over the bottom of the floor and transmission.
. I got the replacement C/V from Drive shaft Parts USA LLC. 4045 NE 5th Terrace, Fort Lauderdale, Fl. 3334 . This is how I replaced the C/V. I have a lift but it can be done in your garage or even in your driveway. First jack up the front of the Nitro and place on jack stands. Make sure you take off the negative battery cable cause we must remove the o2 sensor. You'll see? Second mark the shaft on both ends so you can reinstall the shaft in the same position.I used a paint stick.
Next unplug the o2 sensor. Its right next to the Transmission Then remove the o2 sensor. I tried using a o2 socket but it was to long. I have the 42RLE Automatic and it's real tight to the trans. So I used a 7/8" open end wrench with a long pipe on the wrench to brake it loose. Just be careful you don't strip the sensor hex.
Now loosen the bolts on both the Axle end, don't take them out yet, loosen the bolts on the C/V end . I used a pry bar and held the shaft from spinning,hold the Universal joint from spinning to loosen the bolts. Now take out the bolts and remove the shaft . I used a long chisel and hammer to "TAP" the C/V out of the Transfer case coupler. BE CAREFUL !!!
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Khaki Nitro Nut
07Lifted,4X4,6sp-man,3.7L
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Ok thanks. What's the best way to see if the cv joint is defective? And do they have grease nipples on?
No zerk fittings on any of the U-joints or CVs.
Your X-fer case CV should look like this.


Not like this.

It should have very little, if any, movement up-down, side to side.
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
07Lifted,4X4,6sp-man,3.7L
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Good news.
Does it get louder with turning? If so then hub bearing would most likely be the fault as Metaldog suggested.
 

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Finding out which side can be hard. I've had my ears tell me the wrong bearing before. It's best to get it on the rack turn traction off and spin the wheels up while someone listens to each bearing with a mechanics stethoscope. A shop will not charge much to do this. And if your going to let them do the bearing most times diag on something like that is free. Just make sure they listen to it up in the air or they drive it with chassis ears attached. Or you can get the phone call " we made it better but you got one more bearing bad". They do that one when they just replaced the wrong one lol. But it's always possible the first diag they will say it's more than one. I had cars come in that I'd have to call it for 3 or 4 bearings. Buick rendezvous were good for that.
 

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I have a 2011 Heat 4x4 4.0
I have a load hum in the front end at 20-50 mph then seems to go away. I change my front bearing hubs with no change. My tires still have tons of tread on them. Not that old but have not had them checked for belt separation. Any ideas for me? 158000 miles. Great running truck.
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
07Lifted,4X4,6sp-man,3.7L
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30,305 Posts
I have a 2011 Heat 4x4 4.0
I have a load hum in the front end at 20-50 mph then seems to go away. I change my front bearing hubs with no change. My tires still have tons of tread on them. Not that old but have not had them checked for belt separation. Any ideas for me? 158000 miles. Great running truck.
Have a look at the tire tread and look specifically for uneven wear. Side to side over all, and front to rear of each tread section. The DickCepic tires I used to have wore the tread off the rear of each tread. Making them SCREAM going down the highway.
 
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