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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
going to add a hydrogen fuel cell (dry) to my Nitro,

any input, advice on this subject much appreciated,
 

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Just choose the right regulator. Don’t go for cheapo knops who only sets amps. Go for a PWM type or similar. Even better to go for a PWM to RPM reference ones, to have a better result. The PWM ones will restrict your Amp batterie loads to a much less load compared to regular Amp setter who can be +10x times the PWM regulators load because then your alternator and batteries has to work harder and will rob that power from the engine again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Dutchty any chance you know where i can get a PWM to RPM ?.

the best i found is a knock sensor which the Amps can be set at 2 reference points: something like first set at 5 Amps 1200 RPM then the second set at 20 Amps 3000 RPM (just an example ) i dont mind this but 20 Amps is it's peak output and 20 Amps is the running current of the HHO unit
 

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I have to look it up because it’s already a while ago I was into this for power boating project I did.
But 20Amps is the max what your fuel cell can hold?
 

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At my former supplier I cannot find anything any more but found something from another supplier you also can use when you have a petrol car. It’s an automatic constant current PWM (CCPWM) so not rpm based but added with another device who communicates with the ECM of your car/truck.
https://www.hhoplus.com/product.php?id_product=16
699BB7CB-B661-4C58-AE4B-F2B09F8DC741.jpeg

When you have a modern diesel they have map enhancer.
https://www.hhoplus.com/category.php?id_category=3&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8Ye8kM-V5gIV2ON3Ch0ayA8sEAAYASACEgIR8fD_BwE&p=2


D2E4D6F7-1713-4D4F-984D-EE5E494EA08C.jpeg
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thanks for the links above
because of the oxygen attached to the hydrogen produced from a dry cell ( hydroxy ) which the extra oxygen is detected by the O2 and MAP sensors
i have decided to go with a Hydrogen separator, H2 into engine and Oxygen into atmosphere, normally eliminating the need for an EFIE (electronic fuel injection enhancer) ?.
still looking at PWM's
can you think of any down sides to this setup
 
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Only thing I can think of, that I'm sure you figured already, is with the added Hydrogen fuel you will have less diesel lubricant. So do you need to add a lubricant along with the Hydrogen? Similar to what the LPG setups use.
 
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Wel make sure that you got enough amps available from your PWM otherwise the
efficiency of your cell will be way or to less.
Don’t know the best way to use a separator or not? but I think when you have a petrol engine I would go for the ecm connection.

with hydrogen your fuel mixture will burn hotter compared to normal a combustion. But also much cleaner one so no clogged EGR valves anymore.

Ive got a lpg conversion and when driving on lpg, my engine has a much hotter combustioning. the heat will hurt maintenance intervals compared to when I drive on petrol.
To compensate for the extra heat I added extra cooling.
I did that by adding an engine oil cooler who can be purchased at Mopar in the past as a towpackage upgrade for your engine. Don’t know the current number.
3D488C81-4192-42FC-972C-99749E3B46DD.png
As Scar0 mentioned maybe you got less lubricant because of the hydrogen but don’t know if you need xtra lube.
I think it’s merely the extra heat who can cause added engine ware although I also added A vacuum operated valve lube system from JLM for my lpg conversion. For about 75 bucks your ready.

880284DA-7B16-4DAC-A8EF-7F1AD73A5EEB.png
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
your input is much appreciated, still learning about the hho systems

the Hydrox sensor (in your link) is the one i mentioned earlier ( 20A max), just the one is saw had a knock sensor attached
and probably is the best for automatic control of the current output i think this is the one i will order,

my engine has the viscous fan as well as the electric fan so not really worried about the heat side of things (for now) but would like an all in one module that i can monitor amps, voltage, cell temp, O2 and MAP sensor voltages, etc but can't find anything, maybe i'm asking to much,

i'll post a link to the H2 separator i ordered

hey ScarO, don't know if extra lube is needed, after all the info i have looked at nobody has mentioned this, but in theory the engine will still be burning the same ratio of air/fuel just the Hydrogen will make it burn more efficiently, things will obviously get hotter just not sure how much, i think it depends on the type of engine design, PCM programming ,etc
some people say they have gained 10% MPG and HP and some claim 50%, but 10% in MPG and i'll be happy.
 
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[QUOTE="
the Hydrox sensor (in your link) is the one i mentioned earlier ( 20A max)

my engine has the viscous fan as well as the electric fan so not really worried about the heat side of things (for now) .[/QUOTE]

well I think you just need a beefier PWM for our engines. In my earlier link from a HHO supplier who recommend a setup for engines as the 3.7/4.0 a PWM with 25-28A at least. I’m shure the efficiency wil go higher up then and your gas savings will also increase.

regarding cooling!!!!
It’s not the fan who cools the oil the most, the fan just cool the radiator.
I really recommend to install the oil cooler but maybe you already have?

The engine oil cooler is directly watercooled so engine will heat up earlier and also the water temp will come up earlier to engine operating temperature this is positive for your engine because when it’s earlier on operation temperature it will save fuel.
The water and oil will keep the temperature better in balance when you use this engine oil cooler.
Well until the cooling fan brakes off
 
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uuhm
 

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CRD's already have oil-to-water cooler and it is very efficient. Just logged my data today. Brand new thermostat, without visco fan and radiator completely blocked. Mild cruising in the city.
Ambient temp 0'C
Water temp: 75-80'C- no matter how hard you drive
Oil temp: idle 40'C, motion 60-65'C
Transmission temp: idle 35'C, motion 70-75'C

My CRD does not have EGR cooler, so it might run little cooler.
 

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Well He didn’t mentionthat it’s a diesel:D
 
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It really works.
especially on diesels You will get a fully burned mixture So also a bit better performance and it cleans up the engine internally to.
but don’t expect enormous gains on power with these small systems it just adds something to the mixture for a better combustion.

For performance they have Nitrous bottles:D

there is a scientific article in this link.
https://pdf.sciencedirectassets.com/271472/1-s2.0-S0360319918X00159/1-s2.0-S0360319918310085/main.pdf?X-Amz-Security-Token=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&X-Amz-Algorithm=AWS4-HMAC-SHA256&X-Amz-Date=20191203T192910Z&X-Amz-SignedHeaders=host&X-Amz-Expires=300&X-Amz-Credential=ASIAQ3PHCVTY6QXUCKZD/20191203/us-east-1/s3/aws4_request&X-Amz-Signature=593a1647985b8fcbdb459530a41c49b91357f9c7c7b7c65d1bde3f4e57e83535&hash=c62c08bb3d2e504b9bd45344fd6fafbd42f5f58850361404849d0c0483aaa7e9&host=68042c943591013ac2b2430a89b270f6af2c76d8dfd086a07176afe7c76c2c61&pii=S0360319918310085&tid=spdf-c954ac4b-920c-453b-b400-298389a7e331&sid=67ae41e22240b447478b2745c5e74c6b10b6gxrqb&type=client&download=true
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
[QUOTE="
the Hydrox sensor (in your link) is the one i mentioned earlier ( 20A max)

my engine has the viscous fan as well as the electric fan so not really worried about the heat side of things (for now) .
well I think you just need a beefier PWM for our engines. In my earlier link from a HHO supplier who recommend a setup for engines as the 3.7/4.0 a PWM with 25-28A at least. I’m shure the efficiency wil go higher up then and your gas savings will also increase.

regarding cooling!!!!
It’s not the fan who cools the oil the most, the fan just cool the radiator.
I really recommend to install the oil cooler but maybe you already have?

The engine oil cooler is directly watercooled so engine will heat up earlier and also the water temp will come up earlier to engine operating temperature this is positive for your engine because when it’s earlier on operation temperature it will save fuel.
The water and oil will keep the temperature better in balance when you use this engine oil cooler.
Well until the cooling fan brakes off[/QUOTE]

Dutchty, the info i have seen says you can basically put as many amps as you like into the fuel cell, the down side is the cell gets hot then starts producing steam it also degrades the electrolyte, they say 20amps is the recommended amount for best hydrogen production, but obviously this is just basic car diy installations.
 
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