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Discussion Starter #1
My transfer case is leaving bigger and bigger spots behind because of the Rear Output Shaft Seal. I’d like to change it out myself, but I can’t find any DIYs on this. Is it possible to drop the driveshaft by taking out the 4 bolts on the forward-most yoke of the driveshaft? :thk: (see pic)
My car had the same problem a week ago...$300!! So I'd like to tackle this one myself and save some cash.
Any help would be greatly appreciated
 

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Mine already had it replaced once under warranty. Slip yokes are notorious for having leaky seals. Some folks lube them periodically to try and prevent this, but it's such an uncommon practice that even the oil change guys will look at you funny if you ask them to lube it... though they claim to do a whole "chassis lube" process. Hense I do all my own maintinance ;)

I've replaced the transmission output shaft seal on a dodge before. which required taking the whole t-case out to get to it. It wasn't fun (slip yoke will be much easier). but the seals themselvs I believe are basically the same.

The only potential issue is having the driveshaft out of ballance causing vibration. To prevent this; scribe a mark on both parts where they meet up before unbolting so the shaft can be put back together the same way it came off. After the bolts come off, the little shaft piece should slide right out of the t-case (some fluid may come out). Pry the old seal out with a screwdriver or a seal puller. Keep in mind which side of the old seal was facing out.. I do believe it is possible to install them backwards.

To install the seal you need a piece of pipe the same diameter as the steel portion of the seal. This uniformally applies preasure, keeping the seal from deforming, while installing the new seal. Usually there is a nice selection of inexpensive exhaust pipe coupler pieces available at the local auto store to choose for this duty. lube up the seal surface with seal grease and tap it in place with a piece of wood over the pipe chunk. Seal, pipe, wood, hammer.. in that order. It helps to have someone hold the pipe in place while tapping on the wood. Then apply some grease over the shaft so it doesn't mar the new seal (which would make it leak again) and slide it back in place. Bolt up the drive shaft to the correct torque specs, being sure the marks you made line back up to the same bolt holes. Unbolt the t-case fill port and top off with atf+4 fluid. I use a few feet of small dia. tubing to siphon the fluid into the t-case. Other folks get more fancy.

Anyone know what the torque specs of these drive shaft bolts are? Also someone correct me if these bolts should not be removed. Though, It seems to me that's what they are there for.
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
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Yes, you can remove the driveline by removing those 4 bolts and the 4 at the differential flange. Torque is 108 N.m (80 Ft. Lbs.)
Mark the drive line flanges on both sides as Drew mentioned.

But, our Nitros do not have the slip yoke like the 07 Libby's.
Our yoke is mechanically attached to the main shaft via a flange bolt in the flange. Mark the flange as well before removing.
The torque for that bolt is 122-176 N.m (90-130 Ft.Lbs.) You will need to hold the flange still while loosening and torquing this bolt!

There may also be a flange seal just behind the bolt in the flange that you will need to replace.
I would not recommend using impact tools to do this!
Here are the steps.
1. Remove the rear drive shaft.​
2. Using Holder C-3281 , remove the rear companion flange nut. (Instead of buying this tool, you may be able to make one from a piece of flat steel, drill 2 holes in it to line up with the flange/driveline bolt holes, then bolt it onto the flange to hold it still.)
3. Remove the rear output flange from the main shaft . If necessary, use a suitable 2 or 3 jaw puller to remove the output shaft flange.​
4. Remove the rear output seal with a suitable pry tool or a screw mounted in a slide hammer.
Installation:
1. Install a new rear output seal into the rear cover with Installer C-3972A. (I have used a large socket for this in the past, but you have to be very careful or you will have to do it again...)
2. Install the rear output flange onto the main shaft.
3. Using Holder C-3281 , install the rear companion flange nut. Tighten the nut to 122-176 N.m (90-130 ft.lbs.).
4. Install the rear drive shaft.​
5. Check the transfer case fluid level. Correct as necessary.
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
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I forgot to mention,
Lubricate transfer case parts with Mopar® ATF+4 ATF, Automatic Transmission Fluid, during overhaul and assembly. Use petroleum jelly to prelubricate seals, O-rings, and thrust washers. Petroleum jelly can also be used to hold parts in place during reassembly.​
This will allow the seal to slip over the shaft without binding up.
 

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I stand corrected. Didn't realize ours has a slip joint driveshaft. coolness.

I just suggested the pipe and wood since most folks wouldn't have a socket that big and of the correct size.
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
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A pipe is a good idea, that seal is very large. Sometimes I forget that not everyone has a 20 year collection of sockets. lol
Breaking the flange nut loose is no easy task, and the socket required is also quite large. I do not remember the exact size I used, sorry about that.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The new seal is in and not leaking so far. :smileup: Thanks again for all the help. I took some pics and submitted a "HOW-TO". I added what I learned along the way. Hope it will help out all you DIY'ers.
 

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Yeah my 2011 is now leaking with 5000 miles on it. :( Anyways it appears to be the same place but it is all over the Transfer Case bottom. Taking it in Friday.
 

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As I said in a thread yesterday mine is being replaced today. That is after only putting on about 400 miles. Now I know this will be an ongoing issue, not just with me. The only good news is that the manager told me it is covered under the 5/100K warranty. What I find annoying is they do not stock this part, so I am stuck waiting. I think I will just ask them to order me one and they can buy it back from me in a year when it needs to be replaced again:smileup:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
When I took the pic above, I had 31,000 miles on it. I didn't think it was a coincidence that the Maintenance Shedules indicated to "Inspect the transfer case fluid" at 30,000 miles. I'm the second owner of my Nitro so I don't think the 5/100k warranty applies to me.
 

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Leaking transfer case.

i purchased my vehicle at the end of August last year. When I took it in for a routine 3000 mile oil change, I was informed my transfer case was leaking. So I brought it to the dealership in November, and they repaired it. Today I went in for a routine oil change, and was informed my transfer case is leaking AGAIN. I don't drive in four wheel drive (which is what I was told it was for?) Is this a common defect for this vehicle, or 4x4 vehicles in general?
 

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The spot where it usually begins leaking is the output to the rear wheels... and the rear wheels always get power. Also the front drive shaft is still linked with the front wheels so it spins while the vehicle is in motion too (freewheeling). The only thing that happens when you put it in 4wd is it connects the power to the front drive shaft. So essentially form the point of view of the seals there is no difference between driving in 2wd and 4wd.

From what I've seen those kind of seals (same on the back of the transmission) are common leak points on any 4wd vehicle since they are out in the elements without much protection.

The transfer case rear output shaft seal started leaking on mine too. I had it replaced under warranty.
 

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I will disagree that it is a common for the 4x4's to leak. :D I am on my 8th 4x4 (2 Ford Rangers, 3 Toyota's, 2 Jeeps, 1 Nitro). Never had a tranny leak, but then again, I trade every couple of years.
 

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I would let it done by my dealer. The mechanics begun to disassemble but stopped and told me they need more time to change the seal - a whole day!!! (but I needed my car at the afternoon). They had discovered that my transfer case needs to be opened for that operation. "Something" wouldn't be hold by a nut outside of the TC (I think the output shaft flange). But can that information be right? It sounds unbelievable to me! Is here anyone with such an unusual TC?!?
 

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Well...here I am again with my update...after several different repairs (3 thus far) and 2 so they say "New" fixes it has leaked again..Number 4.....Now its in the lawyers hands I have had enough of this such a pain to go back and forth. I feel like the gunia pig for there engineering group!
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
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That really is too bad. It seems they had a batch with burs on them...
One would think they would check for things like that before reassembling the parts.
 

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Well finally they are buying it back..good grief! If they would have only stepped up to plate after third time they would have saved themselves atty. fees! Oh well now I have to search for new vehicle I have 30 days before this one is gone!
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
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Sorry to hear you had to force them to make it right. Too bad they were not able to figure out the issue, it would have been nice to know.
 
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