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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys. Great site. I've read threw all 55 pages looking for my anwswer but only found others with the same issues with no fix. I have a dealer appointment for Friday. :mad: I hate to go to the dealer so if anyone have this answer I can cancel the appointment. :smileup:

I have a 07 Dodge Nitro RT with about 60k miles on her.

This problem been happening for awhile now.

When starting cold the engine starts right up within 2 cranks. 2

When the engine is hot it takes about 6-8 seconds to start but always start.

So I have a starting when hot issue.

What do u guys think?

Thanks in advance.

Tom Smith
TS Remodeling & More
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Welcome to the forum. I know that this is not going to help you, but if my lawnmower sits for more than 10 minutes when hot, it refuses to start without about 25 pulls. So, maybe someone can address both of our issues at the same time!

:cool:

Have you tried to change the spark plug?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yes - took it back under warranty - fixed it for a while, now it is doing it again this year. It is a Lawn Boy with a Tecumseh engine, the one you prime, with no choke! I'd like to choke it!

:eek:

Maybe just maybe the vent holes on the fuel cap are clogged with dust or grass and causing a vacum.

What model number is the lawn boy?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Maybe just maybe the vent holes on the fuel cap are clogged with dust or grass and causing a vacum.

What model number is the lawn boy?

I wonder if it's low on oil and the low oil sensor is causing it not to start until the oil reseeds to the bottom of the engine. Check the oil if you havent done so already.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well everyone.... I ended up canceling the dealership appointment. Mostly becouse I'm cheap and dont like the cost of dealerships. I'm more a do it yourself kind of guy. If and when I figure this out I'll be posting it everywhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Give this a try next time it happens. Turn the key to the on position, but do not try to start it. Listen for the fuel pump to turn off. Turn the key off, then try to start as normal.
What I am guessing is there may be a leaking injector that is allowing the fuel pressure to bleed off. As this happens the remaining fuel in the rail is vaporizing due to the heat. It will then take longer for the fuel rail to be recharged. As well as the fuel which leaked into the cylinder to be pushed out.
A way to test this is to connect a fuel pressure tester on the rail, start the rig and monitor the pressure. Turn the rig off, the pressure should not drop for about 10 minutes.
If the pressure drops then it could be a leaking injector or a bad check valve in the fuel pump.
Thanks for the reply. If it was a fuel pressure issue wouldnt it do it when the engine is cold?

I took a 180 mile trip today when I got home I waited about 10 mins, had wife cylce the fuel pump 2x. " Pump came on all times. " But the start was the same. Roughly 15 second crank time until the bitch fired up.

I would think if it was a leaking injector or a pressure leak. It would take the same time to refill and presurized the fuel system when the engine is cold.

What you think?

Keep the idea's comming. :beerchug:
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
This is interesting mine just did this for the third time last night after a two hour drive.

I just rolled 50,000 lastnight. it did the long start about a week ago and about a week before that as well. both time it was a hot motor.

Let me know what you find.

Mine has 60k and prob started around the same mileage as yours.

I've had this problem for over a year now. All I can say is atleast it always starts even on a long 10hr plus trip down south in 100 degree weather with a/c cranking at 80 mph.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks for the reply.

I still dont think its the fuel system seeing it only happens when the engine is hot and not once when it the engine was cold. But i'll get a set of gauges and get some readings to truely rule it out.

Now for the electrical part. I would also find it hard to beleave that all 6 coil packs are bad and not causing the plugs to fire until a delay time. If one or two packs are bad wouldnt the nitro sputter and try to start rough? I'm thinking if it is a heat soaked electronic part it would be the sensor or sensors sending the info to engergize the coil packs.

Would that be the cam and crankshaft sensors?

Thanks Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Hey guys, Just checking this thread. I have a dealership service appointment setup for next week for the lifetime inspection. I also told them to look into this issue.

So far I can say its not a fuel system problem. I am 100% sure on that. I also purchased new cam and crank sensors ( about 4 months ago). I will be replacing them after I have the inspection is done and this issue looked into by dealership.

I've also noticed that with colder outside temps the issue isn't as much as it is in hotter temps.

More to come next week.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
OK update so I replaced the crank shaft position sensor and used it for work today. So far it seemed to fixed this problem. I got her hot several times and it started every time.

I'll update this post at the end of the week.

Thanks for the help.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Hi every one I'm back. Been a crazy last few years. LOL

I still have the nitro with a long crank time when hot. So for an update. The crank sensor did not fix the issue. Yesterday I was able to install a new cam sensor. I'll report back my findings.

Scar0 I want to put my own fuel pressure gauge on the 4.0 but I do not see a test port. Does the nitro require a scan tool that monitors fuel pressure to do this test?

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
Hi Joey, So far yes it has. It's been well over a month now with several long run times. I replaced the cam sensor located under the alternator. If you do change yours keep us posted.

Good luck.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
Joey, The good thing it always started for me even after a 10hr run down south in 100 degree temps. I would also replace the serpentine belt. I got one off ebay for under 10 bucks.

My nitro just went to the dealer today for a front pino seal. Luckily I have a the lifetime power train warranty and it cost me nothing.

Let us all know how u make out.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #86 ·
You would have to disconnect the electrical plug going into the fuel pump and then put a meter on the two power wires that would power the fuel pump. Then cycle the key and watch for a reading.

As far as I see on my RT there is no fuel pressure port to test the pressure of the pump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #88 ·
Double good to hear. I just ordered a fuel pump off ebay for like $70. I'm planning on swapping it out later this spring before it fails. What was the total price on the repair?
 
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