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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone,

Long time lurker and first time poster on this awesome forum and I definitely need your help about the issue I'm having.

I have a 2007 Dodge Nitro SLT 3.7L V6 4x4 with 162k miles on it and I'm having an issue with losing a lot of coolant around 1 quart per day in the winter.

So I've had some overheating issues before although the temperature didn't reach a critical level, the highest it got about the first quarter before the redline but I fixed it by doing the following:

-Replaced the radiator and cap
-Replaced the thermostat
-Replaced the water pump

Recently after changing the water pump i noticed the coolant loss without any visible leaks, I've also noticed an issue with heater blowing cold air even though it was full of coolant, I've done the obvious checks such as checking for leaks and found none, checked the dipstick and oil looked fine, checked the tailpipe for smoke or smell and it was fine as well.

What could possibly cause this excessive loss of coolant with no leaks? I've been adding coolant for a while now I'm sure if I've had an eternal engine issue (blown head gasket) it would've shown by now especially with the amount of coolant loss.

However I'm not ruling out an issue with engine but i need help to narrow it down and tackle it by myself to save money if possible, I'm not mechanically inclined but i can work a wrench and i already did all of the work above.

I'm suspecting the heater core to cause the coolant loss but i could be completely wrong,

Apologizes for the long post, I'd appreciate any help i can get,
Thank you in advance for stopping by.
 

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Go to a mechanic and have them sniff for CO in the coolant.

Even tho your oil looks good, and coolant looks good, doesn't mean you don't have a HG leak.

They can also do a very thorough visual inspection while vehicle is on a lift for any leaks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Go to a mechanic and have them sniff for CO in the coolant.

Even tho your oil looks good, and coolant looks good, doesn't mean you don't have a HG leak.

They can also do a very thorough visual inspection while vehicle is on a lift for any leaks.
Thanks for the reply,

The main problem with the mechanics in my country is most of them are pretty bad and eager to rip you off at any given chance hence my attempts to resolve this issue by myself. we don't have combustion leak detector here and i would have to order it online which will take some time to arrive so if there's a blown HG on my car i'd have to find it using different methods if available,

As i mentioned my car is losing massive amount of coolant as of right now no bubbles in the rad or reservoir, temps within normal range no milky oil in the dipstick or oil cap, no visible leaks beneath the vehicle (jacked up and looked thoroughly for traces of coolant or leaks) and i wasn't able find any.

I've been driving it like this for over a month adding coolant in the morning ( i know i should've looked into it sooner but i got busy) my question is shouldn't it have shown signs of blown HG by now with the amount of coolant i lose everyday?
 

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No point to bypass the heater core if its not leaking. The carpet will usually be sopping wet with the amount you are losing. When its warmed up feel the heater hoses. Are they both hot (means theres flow), both cold (low coolant, not getting to hoses),or one kinda hot and one cold (obstructed core). If your coolant gets low the first this that usually happens is you lose heat. Sure the exhaust doesn't smell sweet?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
No point to bypass the heater core if its not leaking. The carpet will usually be sopping wet with the amount you are losing. When its warmed up feel the heater hoses. Are they both hot (means theres flow), both cold (low coolant, not getting to hoses),or one kinda hot and one cold (obstructed core). If your coolant gets low the first this that usually happens is you lose heat. Sure the exhaust doesn't smell sweet?
Thanks for the reply, OK I'll take a look and let you know.

Sure the exhaust doesn't smell sweet?
Yeah no white smoke or sweet smell from the exhaust.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Check to raditator cap was change .I 07 Dogde nitro .R/ T model . I put new cap pressure cap kept pissing fluid ever time park it big puble under it put old cap fine . Check the Cap .
I've replaced the radiator and cap recently, i got 18psi "Stant" brand radiator cap. i've checked around the cap for leaks and i didn't find any but i wonder can it be faulty without leaking? like maybe not closing or opening as it should
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I think I would get some fluorescent dye in the coolant.

Well i don't they have the fluorescent dye where i'm from but i'll to look for it,

And get a tool to raise the pressure:

Amazon.com : radiator pressure tester kit
and see if it leaks w/some special goggles and/or bluelight.
I
18psi the right pressure?

Too much and you can be blowing things through
Yes 18psi is the correct pressure for my 07 Nitro SXT.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
both cold (low coolant, not getting to hose
This is exactly what i found on my truck both are cold with heat on at low speed and the engine is warm at operating temperature with both reservoir and radiator filled with coolant.

The upper hose after the bleeding port is hot but felt empty no pressure if you squeeze it same goes for the heater core hoses both felt empty no resistance. Any ideas why?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Seems all this started when you changed the WP, right?
I've been having issues with the cooling system (overheated on me like 3 or 4 times) I've had to replaced the rad and thermostat before realizing i had a bad WP.

Who installed it? You or a mechanic?
I did. It was installed correctly and torqued to spec. I've used an OEM part.
 

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Greetings from the geographic centre of North America - Winnipeg, Canada.
Like you, i had same issues with little or no heat recently. Had local garage do diagnostic - for $89 and they suggested it was head gasket on my high-mileage (300,004 KM) 2009 Nitro SE.

At first, after reading your post, i wondered if it may be a B0169 - In-car Temp Sensor Failure but no sign of it.

So, last night i went and purchased the Rislone Block Seal Head Gasket Fix and 4L coolant, from local Walmart. * Here is a description from the Walmart website: "Rislone Block Seal Head Gasket Fix product is the easiest solution to stop head gasket coolant leaks. No draining of the cooling system is required. This formulation contains a combination of antifreeze compatible sodium silicate sealing liquid and various size gasket sealing particles which penetrate gaps & cracks and harden to permanently stop leaks. This seals because of the extreme heat inside the combustion chamber (2760°C) that works as a catalyst to permanently harden the material to make it stronger than the actual head gasket itself. Your vehicle is a good candidate for this product if it can idle for 20 minutes without overheating or having to add coolant.." *
After adding the Gasket Fix, my windshield cleared up and was working thru the system.

Today I will take it for a long drive and if the heat returns then I hope to have positive news by the weekend. (Also, i did have the thermostat replaced last spring.) Yes, I hope it helps.
 

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Greetings from the geographic centre of North America - Winnipeg, Canada.
Like you, i had same issues with little or no heat recently. Had local garage do diagnostic - for $89 and they suggested it was head gasket on my high-mileage (300,004 KM) 2009 Nitro SE.

At first, after reading your post, i wondered if it may be a B0169 - In-car Temp Sensor Failure but no sign of it.

So, last night i went and purchased the Rislone Block Seal Head Gasket Fix and 4L coolant, from local Walmart. * Here is a description from the Walmart website: "Rislone Block Seal Head Gasket Fix product is the easiest solution to stop head gasket coolant leaks. No draining of the cooling system is required. This formulation contains a combination of antifreeze compatible sodium silicate sealing liquid and various size gasket sealing particles which penetrate gaps & cracks and harden to permanently stop leaks. This seals because of the extreme heat inside the combustion chamber (2760°C) that works as a catalyst to permanently harden the material to make it stronger than the actual head gasket itself. Your vehicle is a good candidate for this product if it can idle for 20 minutes without overheating or having to add coolant.." *
After adding the Gasket Fix, my windshield cleared up and was working thru the system.

Today I will take it for a long drive and if the heat returns then I hope to have positive news by the weekend. (Also, i did have the thermostat replaced last spring.) Yes, I hope it helps.
Did the sealer work
 

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Go to a mechanic and have them sniff for CO in the coolant.

Even tho your oil looks good, and coolant looks good, doesn't mean you don't have a HG leak.

They can also do a very thorough visual inspection while vehicle is on a lift for any leaks.
I just recently fixed the same problem on mine with changing the intake manifold gaskets pouring head gasket sealer in the radiator and changing the map sensor no more and check your hoses to the intake they may be dry rotted
 
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