[Cole3ber]

I just very recently came across this community and holy crap it’s wild seeing how helpful everyone is for each other’s individual problems. I am working through an ongoing issue myself and am hoping to see if I can’t get the same guidance.

So the issue I am having is a bit much. When running a diagnostics I am receiving misfire codes In cylinders 1 and 3 and then a random misfire P0300 code. The check engine light is not on however when I hopped on the high way the vehicle struggles to shift gears. It will vibrate and shake unless I step hard on the gas. This usually happens anywhere between 50-70mph. Eventually the flashing check engine light will come on. Once running a diagnostics test after this I have misfire codes for cylinders P0300, 1, 3, and 6. Let it sit over night and check again and it’s back to P0300, 1 and 3.

So far I have:
-Replaced coil packs
-Replaced spark plugs
-Replaced wires from coil packs to corresponding cylinders
-Replaced fuel injectors on cylinders 1 and 6
-Replaced EGR valve
-Ran a dry compression test with no issues
-Haven’t noticed any loss of coolant
-Haven’t noticed any irregular colors from the exhaust

I’m not sure what else could be the issue that isn’t a major one. I considered possibly a transmission issue but I had to replace my transmission when I was at 97,000 miles and am currently at 131,000 miles. The transmission I replaced the faulty one with was a used one with 56,000 miles on it.

Im sorry for the lengthy post but I am at my whits end here trying to figure this out. I’m currently stranded with no vehicle and need to solve this as fast as possible so any advice or tips would really be appreciated. Thanks in advance everyone

 

[Cole3ber]

I just very recently came across this community and holy crap it’s wild seeing how helpful everyone is for each other’s individual problems. I am working through an ongoing issue myself and am hoping to see if I can’t get the same guidance.

So the issue I am having is a bit much. When running a diagnostics I am receiving misfire codes In cylinders 1 and 3 and then a random misfire P0300 code. The check engine light is not on however when I hopped on the high way the vehicle struggles to shift gears. It will vibrate and shake unless I step hard on the gas. This usually happens anywhere between 50-70mph. Eventually the flashing check engine light will come on. Once running a diagnostics test after this I have misfire codes for cylinders P0300, 1, 3, and 6. Let it sit over night and check again and it’s back to P0300, 1 and 3.

So far I have:
-Replaced coil packs
-Replaced spark plugs
-Replaced wires from coil packs to corresponding cylinders
-Replaced fuel injectors on cylinders 1 and 6
-Replaced EGR valve
-Ran a dry compression test with no issues
-Haven’t noticed any loss of coolant
-Haven’t noticed any irregular colors from the exhaust

I’m not sure what else could be the issue that isn’t a major one. I considered possibly a transmission issue but I had to replace my transmission when I was at 97,000 miles and am currently at 131,000 miles. The transmission I replaced the faulty one with was a used one with 56,000 miles on it.

Im sorry for the lengthy post but I am at my whits end here trying to figure this out. I’m currently stranded with no vehicle and need to solve this as fast as possible so any advice or tips would really be appreciated. Thanks in advance everyone

Not sure how that cow got added...

 

[Cole3ber]

I just very recently came across this community and holy crap it’s wild seeing how helpful everyone is for each other’s individual problems. I am working through an ongoing issue myself and am hoping to see if I can’t get the same guidance.

So the issue I am having is a bit much. When running a diagnostics I am receiving misfire codes In cylinders 1 and 3 and then a random misfire P0300 code. The check engine light is not on however when I hopped on the high way the vehicle struggles to shift gears. It will vibrate and shake unless I step hard on the gas. This usually happens anywhere between 50-70mph. Eventually the flashing check engine light will come on. Once running a diagnostics test after this I have misfire codes for cylinders P0300, 1, 3, and 6. Let it sit over night and check again and it’s back to P0300, 1 and 3.

So far I have:
-Replaced coil packs
-Replaced spark plugs
-Replaced wires from coil packs to corresponding cylinders
-Replaced fuel injectors on cylinders 1 and 6
-Replaced EGR valve
-Ran a dry compression test with no issues
-Haven’t noticed any loss of coolant
-Haven’t noticed any irregular colors from the exhaust

I’m not sure what else could be the issue that isn’t a major one. I considered possibly a transmission issue but I had to replace my transmission when I was at 97,000 miles and am currently at 131,000 miles. The transmission I replaced the faulty one with was a used one with 56,000 miles on it.

Im sorry for the lengthy post but I am at my whits end here trying to figure this out. I’m currently stranded with no vehicle and need to solve this as fast as possible so any advice or tips would really be appreciated. Thanks in advance everyone

I’m sorry I should have stated in the beginning that I have a 2010 Dodge Nitro SXT 3.7l 4wd

 

[SthglosHI]

If you haven’t already pop over to the newbie section and say hi.

I feel your pain, I had the same problems back a few years. I too chased the problem around by throwing parts at it and never got to the bottom of it. Fortunately for me it resolved itself after a few months of insanity.

I was further fortunate to have an LPG duel fuel system so was able to switch to a second fuel system. It ran smoothly on LPG, the problems only showed when running on gasoline. I put it down to a fuel trimming problem on gasoline.

make sure when changing the plugs you use standard copper (NGK3869), as the 3.7 hates anything else.

others may be able to help you more, I hope you get it resolved soon and do let us know what the fix was if you do as this problem crops up a lot.

good luck 🤞

 

[Patrick Lang]

Be sure to use copper plugs.
Does yours have six ignition coils or the three ignition coils?

 

[Scar0]

As others stated;
The 3.7 requires ZFR6F-11G plugs.
Platinum or iridium will cause problems with the 3.7. Misfires, carbon buildup, coil packs burn out, etc..
OEM is NGK brand, and is what I use..

 

[Cole3ber]

Be sure to use copper plugs.
Does yours have six ignition coils or the three ignition coils?

I have 3 coils and I’m using the NGK ZFR6F-11 plugs

 

[Scar0]

3 coil packs and 3 wires going to the other 3 plugs means;
Waste spark system only in newer 3.7L.
Driver side......to passenger side
Coil on plug 1 with wire to plug 4.
Coil on plug 3 with wire to plug 6.
Coil on plug 5 with wire to plug 2.
Looking at the first post you have a miss on 3 and 6, This could be a bad coil, or possibly a bad coil feed wire.
But would not explain the miss on 1.

Do you have any noticeable lifter noise?

 

[Patrick Lang]

3 coil packs and 3 wires going to the other 3 plugs means;
Waste spark system only in newer 3.7L.
Driver side......to passenger side
Coil on plug 1 with wire to plug 4.
Coil on plug 3 with wire to plug 6.
Coil on plug 5 with wire to plug 2.
Looking at the first post you have a miss on 3 and 6, This could be a bad coil, or possibly a bad coil feed wire.
But would not explain the miss on 1.

Do you have any noticeable lifter noise?

Are you sure this is correct? If so, the shop has ran my wires wrong which my explain my my engine stumbles once every blue moon

 

[Cole3ber]

Are you sure this is correct? If so, the shop has ran my wires wrong which my explain my my engine stumbles once every blue moon

Yes he is correct. I’ve had to verify that so many times with this issue

 

[Cole3ber]

Yes he is correct. I’ve had to verify that so many times with this issue

3 coil packs and 3 wires going to the other 3 plugs means;
Waste spark system only in newer 3.7L.
Driver side......to passenger side
Coil on plug 1 with wire to plug 4.
Coil on plug 3 with wire to plug 6.
Coil on plug 5 with wire to plug 2.
Looking at the first post you have a miss on 3 and 6, This could be a bad coil, or possibly a bad coil feed wire.
But would not explain the miss on 1.

Do you have any noticeable lifter noise?

I have got brand new coils and then even swapped them around. The coils don’t seem to be the issue and all of the wires are ran correctly and match what you stated. The wires connecting the coils to the appropriate cylinders were all swapped a year ago as well do it isn’t likely it could be a bad cable. I’ll see if I can’t switch those around as well if they’ll reach

 

[Patrick Lang]

Are you sure this is correct? If so, the shop has ran my wires wrong which my explain my my engine stumbles once every blue moon

Scratch that... i didn’t pay close attention. They are ran correctly

 

[Scar0]

I was thinking maybe a short to in the feed wire to the coils. But again that would only explain the 3/6 mis, not the 1 mis.

Valve lifter noise? If so your lifters may be gummed up. Which could cause them to jump off the valves occasionally, or not open them fully. Yet compression would appear OK.

 

[Cole3ber]

I was thinking maybe a short to in the feed wire to the coils. But again that would only explain the 3/6 mis, not the 1 mis.

Valve lifter noise? If so your lifters may be gummed up. Which could cause them to jump off the valves occasionally, or not open them fully. Yet compression would appear OK.

I was wondering if the wire that connects to the coils could be a problem. The only test I did with those was let the car run snd then disconnect each connection one at a time to see if I noticed a change in the engine. Each coil cause the engine to run rough after being disconnected. Maybe there would be another sign or way to check to see if that’s the issue?

 

[Scar0]

If you have a way to read live data from the Nitro that would make life much easier.
Double check the injector wires too.