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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I am actually running the stock radio and I must say the damn thing pounds. Had a girl riding in the back seaqt the other day and she thought her heart was gonna fly out of her chest. I actually got the remote wire from the cigarette lighter under the radio on the dash.
 

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Nice clean setup.. Question though.. What kinda voltage reading are you getting on the cap? It's blurry so I can't tell.. Is that 13.4 volts? And is that with the truck 'off' or running? Does it goes up when running? I haven't had time to measure the voltage from my Nitro because of the cold weather. Just wondering what you were getting. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
danpfay99: heres the head shot of the sub you wanted.
reehmicks: the first two shots are when the nitro is running
the next two shots are when the nitro is turned off
the blue led readout is in the engine compartment behind the left fender.
 

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reehmicks: the first two shots are when the nitro is running
the next two shots are when the nitro is turned off
the blue led readout is in the engine compartment behind the left fender.
Thanks.. much helpful.. I can't wait much longer to install my stereo.. It's killing me.. Stupid cold weather..

The 160 amp alternator should do wonders for power though.. Probably don't even need the cap. :D Thanks again.
 

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well I got the kenwood in, man this makes sooooo mutch difference. the down side is is that I have the acc with the power wire so I have to actually turn off the radio when I get out of the car but I was able to use the remote wire off the radio for the amp trigger, but what a difference of sound and my doors dont have that buzz or rattle they used to have cause with the built in x-over. But Id recomend socal upgrade the radio, your box will sound really good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
nitroman first why did you hook the acc wire with the power wire? why didn't you just hook it to the cigarette lighter wire along with the remote wore to the amp. second you don't have buzzing from the panels because the crossovers eliminate the bass going to the speakers because they are made to only send the high frequency and eliminate the low frequency which is where all the bass comes from. So no more bass no more rattling of doors. And trust with the amount of bass in my nitro with the doors dynamated I have no rattling and no remorse to not swapping out the factory head unit right now. And the box is bangin already with just the stock unit.:pepper:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
well sunburst my set costs were......
Amp $299.99us
Install Kit $150us
Subwoofer w/ box w/ 2 yr warranty $100us
Speaker wire $13us
4 channel line out converter $20us
Competition Tsunami RCA cables $90us
Misc. items to hook everything up $20us
Installation $FREE (self installed)

The look I get from everyone when driving down the street with the music up loud and windows rattling because of all the bass.....PRICELESS!

The sub box that I have fits perfectly where it's at and it would probably work for the stow-n-go also.
 

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nitroman first why did you hook the acc wire with the power wire? why didn't you just hook it to the cigarette lighter wire along with the remote wore to the amp. second you don't have buzzing from the panels because the crossovers eliminate the bass going to the speakers because they are made to only send the high frequency and eliminate the low frequency which is where all the bass comes from. So no more bass no more rattling of doors. And trust with the amount of bass in my nitro with the doors dynamated I have no rattling and no remorse to not swapping out the factory head unit right now. And the box is bangin already with just the stock unit.:pepper:

I ran the acc wire like that cause I was monkeying around with it and when you shut the truck off it loses its memory. Unless I have the wires wrong red to red black to black, and the yellow that comes off the radio harness is the constant? so maybe thats the one that goes to red and the red goes to the remote? I dunno what do you think. never had this problem with other installs. I still have some other stuff to do like a cap and the volt meter like what you have which is pretty sweet I may add.
 

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I ran the acc wire like that cause I was monkeying around with it and when you shut the truck off it loses its memory. Unless I have the wires wrong red to red black to black, and the yellow that comes off the radio harness is the constant? so maybe thats the one that goes to red and the red goes to the remote? I dunno what do you think. never had this problem with other installs. I still have some other stuff to do like a cap and the volt meter like what you have which is pretty sweet I may add.
Not to hijack, but I'm doin it anyway. :D

Nitroman577,

The red power line from the vehicle is the constant power line. This is the one that you would want to hook up to your yellow (usually) line from your radio. That's the one that will retain the memory/presets/track position/etc.. The black wire will go to the black wire and then you would attach the red line (positive) from your radio to the cigarette lighter for the 'key triggered' power line. I coulda swore there was a pic someone posted of their hookup to the cigarette lighter, but then again, it was probably one of those 'I promise I'll post pics' threads.. There's a lot of them.. :Na_Na_Na_Na:
 

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Not to hijack, but I'm doin it anyway. :D

Nitroman577,

The red power line from the vehicle is the constant power line. This is the one that you would want to hook up to your yellow (usually) line from your radio. That's the one that will retain the memory/presets/track position/etc.. The black wire will go to the black wire and then you would attach the red line (positive) from your radio to the cigarette lighter for the 'key triggered' power line. I coulda swore there was a pic someone posted of their hookup to the cigarette lighter, but then again, it was probably one of those 'I promise I'll post pics' threads.. There's a lot of them.. :Na_Na_Na_Na:

Does anyone have this picture? I need to know excatly how it is done.
 

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Ok guys I see I finally found some one who put the amp in the tray under the load and go. I just got my system hooked up a week ago and installed it in the same place. i have had a few minor problems with the amp overheating and shutting off any ideas on how i can keep that thing cool? its a MA Audio 1200W mono amp and I got it running 2 kicker solo's which are bridged down to 1 ohm
 
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