[RG1]

I was doing brakes on the new to me 07 sxt last week and saw holes rusted through the lower rear control arms. I figured... Oh well. I'll just replace them. But.. Then I realized that the bolts holding the front portion of the lower control arms was threaded into the pivot holes the wrong to to get access.. The bolt heads are face the inside on the vehicle and the nuts are on the outside.. WTH? The problem is that the gas tank on the drivers side and muffler on the passengers side will not allow the bolt to be removed from the chassis holes! I would have to drop the gas tank to pull the DS and the muffler to remove the PS bolts..Anyone have experience with this obvious mfg mistake? I had to quit driving it when I saw how badly rusted the lower control arms were. Holes of rust through both. Anyone?

 

[Scar0]

Yep, I'm sorry to say...
https://www.nitroforumz.com/threads...a-rebuild-it-totally.48025/page-2#post-321483

 

[RG1]

Well.. That is one way. I figured it out though. Break the nuts loose and cut off the bolt heads off. Then put the bolts in the correct way after installing the LCA.

 

[RG1]

That was the way to do it. So glad I didn't have to drop the tank or cut the muffler off.. I cut the heads off the two offending bolts and replaced them the way Dodge should have assembled them to begin with.. The new lower control arms have 6 holes in them to prevent this water/rust problem in the future. If someone else has to replace these in the future.. don't drop anything or cut anything but the bolts.

 

[Scar0]

Great the see folks thinking outside the box. Well done!

 

[joepro]

That was the way to do it. So glad I didn't have to drop the tank or cut the muffler off.. I cut the heads off the two offending bolts and replaced them the way Dodge should have assembled them to begin with.. The new lower control arms have 6 holes in them to prevent this water/rust problem in the future. If someone else has to replace these in the future.. don't drop anything or cut anything but the bolts.

Thanks for the heads up on that. I'm doing my this week, same problem holes in arm.What did you use for bolts anything special grade?

 

[RG1]

Nope..Just #10 like most automotive bolts..

 

[MotorCity]

Can the replacement arm be put on with the "clip" facing outward instead of inward the way Dodge did it (facing the gas tank) without any issues or extra steps/drilling?

 

[2011KNIGHT]

Rust Hole in my 2009 left rear lower control arm: @RG1 did you use a reciprocating saw to cut off the bolt head at fuel tank?

 

[RG1]

I think I used a 4" cut off wheel. Been a while since I did it. Remember that you turn the nuts out first then knock the bolt head out far enough to cut easily.

 

[2011KNIGHT]

LS LCA: Moog RK641794. Round, not square, but correct 17.25” center to center

Lift: jackstands under frame in front of LCA mount. Lower rear axle onto 2nd set of jackstands.

Old LS LCA: front bolt at body frame. 18mm ss, 3/8 BB on bolt head. ½ BB would not fit because of clearance from gas tank. 21mm ls, ½ BB & R to remove nut. Hammer inward to expose shank under bolt head. Dewalt reciprocating saw and new Made in USA Irwin 6” 14 BTM blade to cut bolt head off. Cut off easily. Wife held outer end of bolt with vise-grips. Vise-grips to pull headless bolt thru LCA grommet and out of mount

 

[2011KNIGHT]

US Supply: needed 10.9 class, M14, 2.0 pitch, 110mm long bolt. 10.9 is equivalent to grade 8. US Supply had the bolt. Cost $5.87

Rear axle: jack until loose on body jackstands. Simulate truck on ground

LS LCA: Insert bolts front and rear. Front bolt: 22mm ss, ½ TW @ 120”lbs. Held nut (gas tank side) 21mm wrench. Rear bolt: 18mm ss, ½ BB on bolt head, 21mm ls, ½” TW @ 150’lbs. Note, 13/16 long socket is tighter fit on nut.

Clearance to gas tank

Rear axle: raise enough to remove jackstands under body. Lower onto jackstands under axle

POR15 Gloss Black & 2” paint brush
Right side

Have to wait until paint dries. Figure out where to run left wheel speed sensor wire. Then tires and test drive. Thanks @RG1

 

[RG1]

Wow! Nice wright up! I see you said your wife helped. That's probably the most interesting part of the entire reply! Mine gives me moral support like "You did it!" And "Great job? What were you working on again?" Something fishy about the show Supernatural which is on Netflix, and middle aged women.. Oh well.. Nice to see you got it!

 

[Nitrogen]

Great job, don't forget the final tightening of the bolts should be done with the vehicles suspension under load ie: all 4 wheels on the ground,

 

[intimid8rkid]

US Supply: needed 10.9 class, M14, 2.0 pitch, 110mm long bolt. 10.9 is equivalent to grade 8. US Supply had the bolt. Cost $5.87
View attachment 39661
Rear axle: jack until loose on body jackstands. Simulate truck on ground

LS LCA: Insert bolts front and rear. Front bolt: 22mm ss, ½ TW @ 120”lbs. Held nut (gas tank side) 21mm wrench. Rear bolt: 18mm ss, ½ BB on bolt head, 21mm ls, ½” TW @ 150’lbs. Note, 13/16 long socket is tighter fit on nut.
View attachment 39662
Clearance to gas tank
View attachment 39663
Rear axle: raise enough to remove jackstands under body. Lower onto jackstands under axle

POR15 Gloss Black & 2” paint brush
Right side
View attachment 39664
Have to wait until paint dries. Figure out where to run left wheel speed sensor wire. Then tires and test drive. Thanks @RG1

Thanks for the info . my lower control arm just snapped on the road. was not fun!!

 

[2011KNIGHT]

Thanks for the info . my lower control arm just snapped on the road. was not fun!!

Yikes!