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2007
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi my name is Zack from Indiana. This is my first post but I've browsed quite a few threads for sometime and found them useful.
I have a 2007 Nitro slt 3.7L 4x4 283,000 mls on it.
It has been a strong vehicle for me for the 6 years I've owned it, never not started
Automotive tire Tread Tire Synthetic rubber Motor vehicle
Automotive tire Tread Tire Synthetic rubber Motor vehicle

I've had to do a few things here and there but all and all it's been a good vehicle.
For about the past week it's been floating a bit when on the interstate, the tires were about ready for a change anyway so I took them to get new one's. That's when I discovered my driver's side rear track bar was rusted completely thru.
I ordered a Mevotech ms251244 to replace both sides. I was wondering if anyone has had this problem, or knows what size wrenches I will need for the job. It doesn't look to hard to fix.
Anyways thanks for listening.
 

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Hi Zack, 280k is great milage,
i have never replaced the rear track bar, all i know there is a Very hard way and an easy way to do this job, so don"t start untill you have all the info and the correct bolt, hopefully someone will chip in who has already do this job,
 

· Registered
2007 R/T
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664 Posts
looks easy to fix to me.

Lots of penetrating oil on those bolt threads, a big breaker bar and/or impact wrench and you're set.

Weird thing to rust. Is that the only thing rusted on the car besides maybe the exhaust?
 

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its actually called upper suspension arm, quite common for them to go rusty, there is also another one which runs from left to right, that is called the Track Bar, last time i looked mine was in pretty bad shape, although it is still in one piece,

left side is very hard to replace: the top bolt is long and hits the fuel tank, so the tank has to be lowered( according to the workshop manual ),
easy way: undo the nut and bolt, slide bolt out as far as possible and cut in half, install new bolt from opposite direction (no need to drop fuel tank)

looking at the photo it looks like there is plenty of room to get the bolt out, hoping someone can chip in who has already changed theres,

same method if replacing Left lower suspension arm,
manual does not say what socket size is needed, my guess would be 19mm
 

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Nitro likes to use 19mm, 21mm, and 22mm nuts on suspension parts--my guess.

+1 for liberal use of penetrating oil--let it marinate for hours--days if you can
+1 for an impact wrench. beg/borrow/steal one--always use a 6-point socket, and make sure the socket fits very snug otherwise it can instantly turn your 6-sided nut into a circle.

With that much rust I'd inspect everything else underneath also. Consider going over the underbody with some chassis saver UCP99 rust converter/prevention paint.

Torque specs can be found here
 
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