[IanBeruang]

Hey guys,

This started about half a year ago. My car hasn't been able to start quiet a few times. At first I thought it was my alternator not doing its job but having a mechanic review it, it was fine. Other mechanics said it was the battery. I had swapped it out about 3 times now.

Finally, I had enough and thought my dealership should be able to fix it. Left my car for about 4 days, told them it won't start after leaving it for about 2 days. They had no idea what is wrong with it. They told me they had done a parasitic draw. Nothing. That was a week ago. Car started fine and strong.

Today. Car is dead after leaving it over night. I opened the door with the key and not a single light came on. That battery is completely flat. No one can properly diagnose it. What should one do? I'm about to sell it due to frustration.

 

[Scar0]

After one night open the hood and feel the fuses. If one is warm that is your leak. Make sure your brake lights and interior lights are off when parked.
If you have anything plugged into the Cig lighter, unplug it.
After market trailer harnesses sometimes go bad also. If you have one, remove it.
Any Mods done to your ride? Stereo maybe.

 

[IanBeruang]

Only mods done are rims. No trailer harness. Everything else is stock.

I'm the kind of guy where I beep the locks multiple times to make sure its locked and tug on the door. WIth this kinda of paranoia, I double check everything in the car. lol.

 

[IanBeruang]

Update.

This mechanic (third mechanic) said it MIGHT be the ECU and might needs to be flashed. Everything passed with flying colours.

 

[Scar0]

Hope a flash does the trick!
FYI; Don't repeatedly hit the lock button. One of the Nitro weaknesses is the lock/unlock relays on the computer board inside the TIPM(computerized fuse box). They have just barely high enough Amperage rating to lock/unlock the doors. Hitting the lock button multiple times in a row can cause them to over heat and short out. Then you are looking at buying a new TIPM.

 

[dgellsworth]

Hope a flash does the trick!
FYI; Don't repeatedly hit the lock button. One of the Nitro weaknesses is the lock/unlock relays on the computer board inside the TIPM(computerized fuse box). They have just barely high enough Amperage rating to lock/unlock the doors. Hitting the lock button multiple times in a row can cause them to over heat and short out. Then you are looking at buying a new TIPM.

That's very interesting Scar0. I have a habit of hitting it far to often to annoy my girlfriend with constant horn noise. She hates public embarrassment! I guess now I really should stop. Darn it!

 

[Scar0]

That's very interesting Scar0. I have a habit of hitting it far to often to annoy my girlfriend with constant horn noise. She hates public embarrassment! I guess now I really should stop. Darn it!

Just hit the panic button instead.

 

[dgellsworth]

Funny story, yesterday morning, almost to work I stopped at the gas station for my guilty pleasure (donuts). Purchased my donuts and went on my way, hit the unlock button, boom, alarm starts going off. None of the buttons on my remote were responding. Finally just manually unlocked the doors with the key and started the car to turn off the alarm. Any ideas what happened?

 

[IanBeruang]

Hope a flash does the trick!
FYI; Don't repeatedly hit the lock button. One of the Nitro weaknesses is the lock/unlock relays on the computer board inside the TIPM(computerized fuse box). They have just barely high enough Amperage rating to lock/unlock the doors. Hitting the lock button multiple times in a row can cause them to over heat and short out. Then you are looking at buying a new TIPM.

I'll keep that in mind.

As of today, I'm talking with a case manager from Chrysler. Made another appointment at the dealership and she said she'll talk to the supervisor at the shop. I hope this will finally end this situation.

As for panic button. No idea. In fact, I've never heard my alarm ever.
<noob.

 

[Scar0]

There has to be a draw somewhere. Hope they can find it for you.
Either way, please keep us informed on what they say.

 

[IanBeruang]

I know its been awhile since I posted but heres the Update.
The car has been at the dealer where I purchased it from since Sept 22nd. Service manager said "batter has a dead cell, need new battery. Mind you, this will be my fourth battery. Just got off the phone with them, said absolutely nothing is wrong with vehicle. I have noticed that my cig lighter in the car tends to stay on. I asked them about it and they said that "its normal, just unplug any charging thing and you'll be fine". BS. I purchased the vehicle and it has never been like that. They brush it off almost everytime I bring it up.

So... What should my next car be?

 

[Nitrogen]

in the fuse box there are 2 settings for the front power point: simply move the fuse from left position or right position 1st position is for ON all the time, and 2nd position is for ON and OFF with the ignition.

they should know this at the Dealership.

thanks for the update on your post.

 

[IanBeruang]

in the fuse box there are 2 settings for the front power point: simply move the fuse from left position or right position 1st position is for ON all the time, and 2nd position is for ON and OFF with the ignition.

they should know this at the Dealership.

thanks for the update on your post.

Where in the fuse box? I've played around in there and have not noticed what you're talking about.

It'd be hilarious if that was the issue the entire time.

 

[Scar0]

http://www.nitroforumz.com/threads/fuses-relays.37544/
Yellow fuse, M7.
It is in the lower left of the second Pic, next to the 2nd from bottom large white fuse in the corner.
There are 3 slots. The center slot goes to the Cig lighter. The outboard slot is switched B+, the inboard slot is B+ all the time.

This is a Pic of my TIPM [Computerized fuse box], the M7 fuse is in the "switched with key" position to the outboard side (set in outboard and center slots).
To have it "on" all the time use the center and inboard slots.

 

[IanBeruang]

Just got the car back, gonna look at my fuse box and hope this will somehow help. Thanks for the tip Scar0.

I'll let you guys know in a months time.

 

[Scar0]

Dare I ask... Why a months time?

 

[IanBeruang]

Well, that's how long my batteries usually last me when I recharge it or get a replacement. I'm not that educated with cars and definitely have no time to learn and keep on checking if the battery is being charged etc.

Btw, your tip with the fuse box worked. Some mechanic went in there and changed it to the "always on" position. But why does the guys at the dealership kept on telling me "its hardwired in, if its on, its on. There's nothing we can do about it. Just unplug your charger when you leave your car"

 

[Scar0]

So now I'm confused. The title says the Nitro battery goes flat after sitting for 2 days.
Does your Nitro sit for a month without being started?
Every time you start the Nitro the charging system should be keeping the battery fully charged.
Or do you start and drive it, but the battery does not charge during that time?

As for what the "mechanics" said... They are idiots. Time to find a new dealer...

 

[IanBeruang]

Right, I'm horrible at explaining things. Sorry about that.

When I got the new battery, it worked fine for about a month, after that, the power starts to fade. When I jump start it, I can usually drive to work and back with no issues. I would jump start it on a Monday around 8.30AM or so and start it later around 5.30 when I'm off work. But if I leave it for a day or two (the weekend), the battery is completely flat.

As far as I know, 3 different mechanics have told me that they have a "clean bill of health" and everything is A-OK. So I'd go back to the place bought the battery from for an exchange "thinking its malfunctioning" or just have them recharge it. The first 2 batteries, the guy told me I needed a battery that increases my crank amp. (mind you, i have no knowledge of batteries, he's been my mechanic for 7 years with my previous car so I trust him). But as for the third battery, the dealership guys told me a cell is dead.

Hope that cleared things up. Was never really good at essays in college as you can tell with my posts. lol.

 

[Scar0]

I'd try a different brand of battery with 525 to 600 CCA(cold crank amps).
525 is the minimum recommended CCA.
In colder climates I would go no less then 600.