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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I've experienced random honking when car running or not. Door locks not working with key, No crank which made me think of the alarm system going bad but I do not have an alarm system. So I have no crank away from home on a very hot day. I am starting to loose my cool. The starter and solonoid and associated wires were replaced a couple of years ago and my battery has a full charge.

No crank, had it towed to the nearest Dodge garage left it there for a week so they could fit me in. Got a call, "could not duplicate reported issue of no crank. Only charged $45 instead of the full price because they were unable to solve my issue. I got a ride over and drove my Nitro home. Checked grounds, wiring and connectors. Sent my TIPM into MAKs TIPM Rebuilders. $95 to test it and return it to me. It was found to be in perfect working condition.

While it was out of the Nitro I did a hard reset for a week. Put electrical grease on the contacts, made sure the plugs were in firmly and locked in. The next step is to do a soft reset where the Nitro's computer puts your serial number into your TIPM and configures it with your Nitro's makeup, fuel pump, locks, wipers, etc. Do this soft reset Before trying to start. Turn key all the way on without starting and your dash will go through checks in about 15 seconds you will hear a final beep. Remove the key before trying the first start.

The radio, wipers, fuel pump, door locks, horn all seem to work HOWEVER, I again have a hard NO CRANK.

Thanks in advance for your advice,
2007 Dodge Nitro SLT 4x4 purchased new and has been my daily driver ever since.

Confused o_O
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
My next step is to check the several grounds from the back of the power module connectors. Can anyone tell me what they are? Like plug 5 pin 2 black/yellow etc. I would then jump the ground lines to a good ground one at a time and see if the no crank changes. I do not have access to a pin diagram so this will be somewhat difficult. I will look for green crud on the back side of the plugs then look for green crud on body ground locations wherever they are. I see two of these areas but figure there must be more and where do they hide the ecm? :unsure:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I pulled the starter relay from the fuse box or power module. K4 start/run relay has a wiring diagram on it. Jumping pin 87 & 30 gave me a click and a whine. I assume this is the solonoid on the starter clicking. No crank, has it been the starter all this time?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
alarm issue?

Neutral safety switch?

Tried it w/the shifter in N instead of P?
Yes I tried it with the shifter in N and P. I don't have the alarm option. Wouldn't the start/run relay bypass all the safeties? Still hard no crank.
 

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get yourself a wiring diagram or full workshop manual, i got mine from Tradebit.com, then i can show you which wire was causing me the no crank issue,
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
get yourself a wiring diagram or full workshop manual, i got mine from Tradebit.com, then i can show you which wire was causing me the no crank issue,
I have the tradebit Nitro manual online. Tell me about this no crank wire. I don't remember stating R/T but that's the manual I have now.
Starting Wiring Diagram and Ground Distribution Diagrams help.
 

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before you go any further you realy should check some of the chassis ground connectors, there are several under the hood most common issue is the one under the battery on the inner chassis leg (mine was so bad had to drill and mount a new one), next are the ones behind the kick panels in the front footwells,
all the ground points are listed in the workshop manual,
at your own risk you could try jumping the starter solenoid to the starter motor, this will confirm the starter is ok,
in the meantime i will look for the wiring info which helped me fix my no crank issue, it was 10 years ago, but have it somewhere,
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Okay, The diagram says the K4 relay is the start/run relay which I checked earlier and got a click and a whine. The K3 relay is the starter solonoid relay. I jumped 87 & 30 with a short wire and the starter turns the engine over. The starter is good. Still NO CRANK with the key.

-I'm too old to be crawling under that thing so I read the diagram/instructions :cool:

Pulled the battery tray. No grounds there just a dead squirrel . The ground posts are further back on the wheel well. Everything looks good. No rust or green crud. Checked the plugs backside on the TIPM and the ECM. ALL look clean and secure.

I'm still at no crank but my cup holders still work so i'm going in for some cofffee.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Checked the four ground wires coming off the TIPM plugs. So far:
  • TIPM OK
  • RELAYS OK
  • FUSES OK
  • STARTER OK
  • GROUNDS I FOUND OKAY
  • COFFEE WAS OKAY
I think the problem is somewhere between the TIPM and the KEY 🔑
CURRENT STATUS: NO CRANK
 

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ok great,
hold tight i will find the info which fixed my no crank issue
 

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I had the same problem intermittent no crank. I took my car to the dealer and they had it for 10 days and could not locate the problem. I searched youtube and the web for answers. Turned out to be the ECU, It also had a parasitic battery drain. Found a company on ebay that will test your ECU and repair it if needed.
Your Part Source | eBay Stores
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I had the same problem intermittent no crank. I took my car to the dealer and they had it for 10 days and could not locate the problem. I searched youtube and the web for answers. Turned out to be the ECU, It also had a parasitic battery drain. Found a company on ebay that will test your ECU and repair it if needed.
Your Part Source | eBay Stores
My son is a master mechanic for Nissan. We've been troubleshooting via text. It appears the signal from the park neutral switch gets lost in the ecu. The signal from there does not get to the starter solonoid relay in the tipm.

Thanks, you confirmed our diagnosis and gave us a place to get it repaired! I will be back here to let everyone know what happens with the new or rebuilt ecu. 😃
 

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My son is a master mechanic for Nissan. We've been troubleshooting via text. It appears the signal from the park neutral switch gets lost in the ecu. The signal from there does not get to the starter solonoid relay in the tipm.

Thanks, you confirmed our diagnosis and gave us a place to get it repaired! I will be back here to let everyone know what happens with the new or rebuilt ecu. 😃
best of luck (y)
 

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the TIPM and the PCM (ecu) need several signals from different modules
the PCM may be holding back the final starter relay signal because it has not recieved all the primary signals,
 

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managed to find some info,
the wire giving me a no crank issue was " ignition switch outlet (unlock run/start) " , wiring diagram Power distribution,
PNK/WHT wire links between
TIPM: connector C1 pin 49
PCM: connector C1 pin 12
Shift Lever Assy: pin 1
check for 12v + signal, my signal was lost at the TIPM, connected a 12v signal and the the engine started and has been fine ever since,
there are several pink/white wires be sure to locate the correct one,
hope this helps,
 
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