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my ac and fan motor are working great but it wont switch to heat its like something is not switching or opening where do i start?
 

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my thought would be since its an 2010 model I would take it back to the dealer after I checked all the fuses in car and under the hood. it should still be under the 3/36 bumper-bumper so, instead of pulling it apart yourself (may void coverage if something isnt put back together just so) call up the dealer and schedule a visit.
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
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:iagree::goodpost7td:
That is what I would do!
 

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Sounds like the blend door is not moving. Could be a bad selector switch, bad solenoid, stuck blend door. Let the dealership figure it out if it's under warranty.
 

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Hi - I have a 2008 nitro R/T - no more warranty and i think i have a broken or stuck blend door that controls the drivers side. where would this be located? I would like to try and manually close it, or at least see if there is something i can do. It's starting to get cold outside and i need heat quick. If anyone can help me that would be great.
Thanks!
 

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The Univalent Radical
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If the blend door on the Nitro is like other Mopar products, the gears are made of plastic, and therefore somewhat fragile. Turn on your car and rotate the blue/red mixing (heat control) knob. You should hear a whirring sound from the motor as it rotates the door. If you hear the sound, the motor is ok but the gears might have a worn spot, or have fallen off. If you hear clicking, it is definitely the gears. This should be located up behind the glove box, but I'm not certain of the exact location in the Nitro.

:cool:
 

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usually there is only one in the system that controls heat for all vents. If there is just no air coming out that one vent that's a seperate problem.
 

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same boat same issue

hi all

not to thread jack this post, but i think im in the same boat. just a 2010 model. way out of warranty, or id take it in and get it fixed.

i have all kinds of air, just not hot air. i hear the click sound down by the driver feet area somewhere, and i hear the noise over behind the glovebox, but the thing that is stuck sounds like it is up top by the defrosters somewhere - when i hear it let go, it sounds like its up high in the dash...

sometimes when im lucky, i turn the heat knob up and it makes this crack/pop sound up high in the dash, and i get all my heat like normal. if i turn the heat knob down at all, it lets go and goes back to cold air.

any idea on whats going on is most welcome. i want to know as much as i can before i go taking apart the dash. sigh.

thanks all. saylor.
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
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See post 6.
The blend door actuator is located on the drivers side of the air distribution housing.
Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable for 10 minutes before you do any work! You don't want the airbags to go off!
This is a pretty complex repair. In order for you to gain access to the actual "door", you will have to remove the heater core and at least 1/2 of the air distribution housing. The SM recommends you remove the entire housing and work on a bench.
But it may not be the "Door" that is the issue, it could be the actuator, which can be removed fairly easily and replaced.
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
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preciate the help. my options pretty much suck i guess.
I would pull off the blend door actuator and swap it out with a new one. Or another option is to swap it out with one of the other actuators. The blend door actuator is interchangeable with the actuators for the mode-air doors and the recirculation-air door.

Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable.

If equipped, remove the silencer from below the driver side of the instrument panel.

Disconnect the wire harness connector from the blend door actuator located on the driver side of the air distribution housing.

Remove the two screws that secure the blend door actuator to the actuator mounting bracket and remove the actuator.
 

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hello , im in the same boat but 2011. dont have any noises and it started last year not working for me but for the wife everytime. now it just stop working period recently and cant find any decent diagrams for the HVAC system.
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
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Welcome to the forum Michael.

When you have a chance, head over to the Newbie Section and say "Hi".
Tell us a little about yourself and your ride.
That way we can welcome you all proper like.

If you search the forum for "blend door" you will find several of my posts about them.
 

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Could you direction me to a exact forum for the issue. Only ask cuz everything I have read so is heat only on one side, actuator making noises, restrictions in heater core, leaking heater core, or odors. I have no heat what so ever, no noises from actuators, no restrictions in heater core, no leak or odors. Checked all this yesterday after reading forums. At this point I am thinking control head or electrical related
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
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See this thread. No heat to the floor and no defrost. It is for the Mode door but you can locate the Blend door actuator in the Pic. Other posts in that thread talk about how they should work and what to look for when they are working.
Also when this happens check the heater core hoses under the hood. They should both be hot and about the same temp. Check your antifreeze level.
One more thing to try. Pull the Neg (-) battery cable for 10 minutes. This will reset the computers, just in case it is a glitch.
 

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2008 Nitro Hello - Female here (with limited car repair experience!) SO, I had very little to no heat. You could feel the heat coming from the vents, however when the fan was turned up, it just started to blow cold. I checked my coolant and found it to be low. Not sure why it was as low as it was in the first place? In any event, I filled the receptical past the Min Fill line, and it seemed to have worked, especially after a couple of days. Seemed as if the heat was as strong as it once was. A few days later and we are currently in a deep freeze. Back to minimal to no heat. I have been reading several threads here and on other forums, and first checked the coolant, then checked the 2 hoses leading to the heater core, both were warm to the touch (not super hot), but the same temp on both. The fan switches to the various modes in the car (i.e. defrost, feet only, face only). The temp guage on the dash is ALWAYS in the middle where it should be. AND I just removed the negative battery cable (as the previous post stated, for re-setting purposes?) I really don't want to bring this into the dealership...yet! Any help is appreciated in advance!
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
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2008 Nitro Hello - Female here (with limited car repair experience!) SO, I had very little to no heat. You could feel the heat coming from the vents, however when the fan was turned up, it just started to blow cold. I checked my coolant and found it to be low. Not sure why it was as low as it was in the first place? In any event, I filled the receptical past the Min Fill line, and it seemed to have worked, especially after a couple of days. Seemed as if the heat was as strong as it once was. A few days later and we are currently in a deep freeze. Back to minimal to no heat. I have been reading several threads here and on other forums, and first checked the coolant, then checked the 2 hoses leading to the heater core, both were warm to the touch (not super hot), but the same temp on both. The fan switches to the various modes in the car (i.e. defrost, feet only, face only). The temp guage on the dash is ALWAYS in the middle where it should be. AND I just removed the negative battery cable (as the previous post stated, for re-setting purposes?) I really don't want to bring this into the dealership...yet! Any help is appreciated in advance!
Welcome to the forum distrbd63.

When you have a chance, head over to the Newbie Section and say "Hi".
Tell us a little about yourself and your ride.
That way we can welcome you all proper like.

In your case you could just have air trapped in the core.
Fill fluid, drive it, when you reach operating temp, drive at high RPM.
Let it cool off completely (leave cap on during cool down), refill and repeat.
It usually takes 3 times to get the air out.
 

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(Sorry if this sounds like a dumb question)..Can I let it run till operating temp, and then run at high idle/high RPM without driving it?
 

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Yes but you can hammer on it under load easier than revving the piss out of it. And I always like to beleive that bouncing around on the road helped. But try it warm it up and hold it at 2500 or so it will either start blowing hot or not
 

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(Sorry if this sounds like a dumb question)..Can I let it run till operating temp, and then run at high idle/high RPM without driving it?
Yes, just get the engine to normal temperature (doesn't matter how you do this), then give some revs to move the coolant around the engine, the trapped air then floats to the top of the cooling system, even a slightly low coolant level can stop your heater working.

for the next couple of weeks you need to keep your eye on the coolant level, just to make sure you do not have a leak.
 
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