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Hello,

I am also having issues with barely any heat in my 2010 dodge nitro. Started out with No heat and now I have Luke warm air. Also seems my driver side is a littler warmer than the passenger side. So far I flushed the radiator and heater core and bleed out a lot of air but now I’m also being told theirs another screw on the bottom where I might need to bleed out more air?? It was also over heating when I was parked but since the flush and topping off coolant that seems to be fixed. After the flush some gunk came out and i fixed a clog no doubt and I went from cold air to Luke warm but still not enough to heat the cabin. I’m now foccused on the blend door actuator. I turned the temp control and did not see the white arm turn so I’m hoping that’s my problem. Does anyone know how I can manually turn it and do you think it’s worth my time? If I adjust the temp down the temp does change from Luke warm to cold not sure if that makes a difference but I’m being told when I turn that nob the white arm should turn. Oh almost forgot when I start my car most days I’ve been hearing clicking noises like gears are trying to turn but aren’t on the right track or something. That clicking is coming from under the passenger side not the driver side. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Alex W
 

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Hello,

I am also having issues with barely any heat in my 2010 dodge nitro. Started out with No heat and now I have Luke warm air. Also seems my driver side is a littler warmer than the passenger side. So far I flushed the radiator and heater core and bleed out a lot of air but now I’m also being told theirs another screw on the bottom where I might need to bleed out more air?? It was also over heating when I was parked but since the flush and topping off coolant that seems to be fixed. After the flush some gunk came out and i fixed a clog no doubt and I went from cold air to Luke warm but still not enough to heat the cabin. I’m now foccused on the blend door actuator. I turned the temp control and did not see the white arm turn so I’m hoping that’s my problem. Does anyone know how I can manually turn it and do you think it’s worth my time? If I adjust the temp down the temp does change from Luke warm to cold not sure if that makes a difference but I’m being told when I turn that nob the white arm should turn. Oh almost forgot when I start my car most days I’ve been hearing clicking noises like gears are trying to turn but aren’t on the right track or something. That clicking is coming from under the passenger side not the driver side. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Alex W

Also forgot to mention that I had water or coolant on my passenger side floor board assuming from heater core but since I flushed the heater core that hasn’t happen. I’m pretty sure it’s the blend door/actuator or heater core is bad. Again I’m not to great with mechanics but with directions I can normally figure out how to replace what needs to be fixed.
 

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ScarO, is the liquid flush/cleaner, not as good as literally running a hose thru each side of the heater core? I ran the cleaner for 20 mins and then drained the system.
Welcome to the forum Alex w. When you have a chance, head over to the Newbie Section and say "Hi".
Tell us a little about yourself and your ride.
That way we can welcome you all proper like.

Have you looked at this?
https://www.nitroforumz.com/threads/only-have-heat-on-passenger-side.40168/
It can take several times flushing to get the crud out. All it takes is about a tablespoon to partially clog the core.
 

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Liquid flush/cleaner will descale, but it will not dissolve sand.
Most members have found engine block casting sand in the core when flushing.
NOTE: Follow the instructions very closely on any flush/cleaner product. If it is in for to long it can actually eat the core. Been there, done that. LOL
 
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Learn something new every day. I have never heard of engine block casting sand.
The hoses seemed tight around the heater core so that's why I didn't do it.
Liquid flush/cleaner will descale, but it will not dissolve sand.
Most members have found engine block casting sand in the core when flushing.
NOTE: Follow the instructions very closely on any flush/cleaner product. If it is in for to long it can actually eat the core. Been there, done that. LOL
 

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Welcome to the forum Alex w. When you have a chance, head over to the Newbie Section and say "Hi".
Tell us a little about yourself and your ride.
That way we can welcome you all proper like.

Have you looked at this?
https://www.nitroforumz.com/threads/only-have-heat-on-passenger-side.40168/
It can take several times flushing to get the crud out. All it takes is about a tablespoon to partially clog the core.
I’ve flushed it a few times but that was a good read. I think I might have a clog in my ducts like a rat nest as you suggested in past posts on that thread. I bought my Nitro a year ago from a guy who had it parked outside for a solid year straight. But would that explain why I have Luke warm air after I flushed the core? Idk i might have both clogged core and ducts. I’m not sure what to focus on first and I don’t have a ton of time as I work about 60 hours a week. When I flush the core I go from cold air to slightly warm for a few weeks then it gets cold again. My coolant is pink so I assume it’s correct. Maybe it needs flushed some more and that would explain why the heat don’t last longer than a few weeks. When I flush it I go to my local jiffy lube and my friend Lets me flush it with his coolant hoses at the shop makes it easier than using water. He’s been convinced I need to keep flushing the core as well. Where would you start first?
 

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from under the hood, engine running, check the temperature of both the rubber feed and return heater core hoses, they should both be about the same temperature, if there not your core is most likly blocked.
 

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from under the hood, engine running, check the temperature of both the rubber feed and return heater core hoses, they should both be about the same temperature, if there not your core is most likly blocked.
How long should the engine be running first and should the heat be on?
 

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doesn't realy matter when the engine is hot the core hoses should be hot.

the Nitro heater core has a full flow system, which means engine coolant is constantly running through the heater core regardless of heater settings, so when you switch for cold air the heater system closes the flaps around the heater core and takes cold air from outside and bypasses the heater core.

one thing to remember is the coolant level must always be at the correct level, a slight drop in coolant realy effects the heating system on the Nitro.
 

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Sounds like the blend door is not moving. Could be a bad selector switch, bad solenoid, stuck blend door. Let the dealership figure it out if it's under warranty.
Mine is blowing hot out the defrost, but ice cold in the floor when you have it turned to the dual selector. Any ideas on that?
 

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Welcome to the forum @VtMilkman. When you have a chance, head over to the Newbie Section (<click this) and say "Hi".
Tell us a little about yourself and your ride.
That way we can welcome you all proper like.

That is very strange because the blend door(Hot/cold) should remain as it is. IE hot is hot, cold is cold.
The Mode door (defrost/vent/floor) only changes the airflow direction.
The only exception I can think of would be if the A/C button is pressed. The A/C will not turn on when in a defrost mode.
 
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