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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know this has been done to death and I have read every thread on here having to do with this subject but what is the bottom line? My Nitro book says the towing capacity is 3500 lbs. Every hitch listed on ebay as OEM style is rated 2000 towing/200 tongue wt. Every below the bumper fascia aftermarket trailer hitch is rated 3500 towing and 350 tongue weight. I would rather have the factory appearance with the "in bumper" mount and bezel but would also rather have the extra 1500 lb towing cushion even though it meant 2 inches less ground clearance. I guess my question is if I go with the factory OEM hitch and bezel mount am I limited to 2000 towing capacity? Thanks to all and I appreciate it.
 

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I had a hitch put on my Nitro as soon as I bought it - an aftermarket, so it's undermounted, and not using the 'in bumper' method....and what I was told was that I could tow the maximum 3,500 with this set up I have, however, I don't 'think' my baseline Nitro is rated to pull more than 2,000 according to the dealer when questioned at time of purchase. I got the hitch for a 'hitch basket' setup and not towing, so it wasn't a concern to me either way really - I just remember being told that even if I got the better hitch, I still didn't have the Nitro that 'should' be towing/pulling that much weight.

I just went and looked at the nifty sticky about towing (thanks NitroTech!)
http://www.nitroforumz.com/showthread.php?t=686
and I'm thinking my dealer had a 'canned' reply about towing, and didn't catch that I was asking for and buying a 6 speed........which means, according to this - I 'can' tow the heavier 3,500 lb. load if needed....that's cool!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
OEM wiring

Hello,
I see that an OEM wiring harness is available in 7 pin and four flat configurations. Would anybody know if the four flat has something included in the kit (or available) that would mount the connection to the trailer into the factory mounting spot on the hitch? All my stuff is lightweight, boat, bike trailer, small tilt bed trailer and without brakes. I just installed the factory hitch and bezel and it came out great...Thank You to DocNitro for the great information and pictures. And thanks for any information about this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That is an adapter

No What I wanted to know is if I install the factory four flat wiring harness will it terminate in the mounting that is on the factory hitch....on the left. And give it a nice finished appearance or do I end up with a pigtail dangling down and looking shabby? see picture A
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
factory hitch, aftermarket wiring

Just so those of you who asked will know, I ended up with a "Tow-Ready" plug-n-play wiring harness part #118421 from ebay for $39.95 plus $7.95 shipping. I also bought a "Hoppy multi-plug" part #37185 for $26. It has a f flat pigtail that plugged right into the wiring harness and 3 extra wires for using the 7 pin. A wire for back up lights, brakes, and auxiliary power. Total cost $73.90 and it works great and looks just like I wanted it to. See picture
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'll try it again, if it won't upload it's in the members photo's
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well, I finally had a chance to use my trailer hitch. I bought a new air compressor and hauled it with my neighbor's tilt-bed 5 x 8 trailer. The tilt feature made it a little noisy over bumps but it quieted right down once a load was put into it. I was only hauling a total load of around 300 lbs plus the weight of the trailer but was very happy that it went so well. :Racing: I noticed no difference in handling or braking. :smileup:
 

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Well, I finally had a chance to use my trailer hitch. I bought a new air compressor and hauled it with my neighbor's tilt-bed 5 x 8 trailer. The tilt feature made it a little noisy over bumps but it quieted right down once a load was put into it. I was only hauling a total load of around 300 lbs plus the weight of the trailer but was very happy that it went so well. :Racing: I noticed no difference in handling or braking. :smileup:
That's good to hear. Still haven't used mine yet...:rolleyes:
 

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07Lifted,4X4,6sp-man,3.7L
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I use mine all the time. The Nitro tows like a dream.
 

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I have the same question as the original poster. If you buy the tow package from the factory it is a class 3 hitch but the original mopar parts to do it after the fact is a class 2. Do I have to find an aftermarket hitch to get the class 3? Does anyone know the part # of the one from the factory?
 

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07Lifted,4X4,6sp-man,3.7L
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I believe the hitch rating is the same. The difference is, the factory hitch install also came with a higher capacity radiator and trans cooler. Towing capacity is also determined by your engine. 3.7L can not tow as much as a 4.0L. Check the owners manual.
Part # 52109829AB for factory hitch.
 

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I have the cooler installed already . I looked at the manual and it shows that the 3.7 and 4.0 engine can tow the same weight. Thanks for the part # Scar. I will be calling the dealer tomorrow so I can order it and get it installed.
 

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So I dont have to start a new thread, I too have ordered the OEM hitch and all accessories.

My questions goes out to those that have installed this kit themselves. I'm wondering what type of tool was used to remove the "cut-out" in the rear bumper in wich the bezel replaces.

I'm being cheap considering the dealer gave a me a $500 quote for parts and install, but I got the same stuff brand new for around $270shipped. It should be fairly straight forward other than cutting out the small section in the bumper.

Anyone who has first hand experience with this, please chime in* :)

Thanks guys!
-Red
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
A paper template comes with the bezel kit. I used a Black & Decker rotary tool with a side cutting bit and it did a terrific job and was very safely done.



I used the same tool to cut out the little plastic grilles when I did my fog lights. The thing is to just work slowly and let the tool do the work. Good luck with your install.
 

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ahh, a paper template, how very handy:)

A Black and decker rotary tool, as in a dremel or like a roto-zip style tool?

Two more questions...
Did that plug and cover "flap" come with this hitch or was that purchased seperately? If seperately, does the 4-plug wire just hang?

I've been having a hard time decided on the amount of drop (in inches of corse:i_rolleyes:) to get for the receiver, 2"? I currently have a 16' flat bed trailer...

Thanks Adot!
-Red
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Yep, a B&D rotary tool is their version of a roto-zip or Dremel tool. There are options to use with each too, cutting discs, side cutting bits, etc. My hitch was the OEM hitch. It had a mount for the OEM electric harness which I didn't use. I got a Hoppy harness from ebay for around $40 and $7 shipping. This harness was plug and play ....just jerk the tail lights off and plug the harness in between the factory connection and run your bundle of wires to the hitch area. This harness came with the four flat connector. I wanted to use the factory mount so I got the fancy-smancy converter plug that fit in the hitch mount and lets me use the four flat or the 7 pin round connector. It was around $26 but I am very happy with it's appearance and how it works. Nothing hangs out in the open or is exposed. Good luck, you can do it.
 
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