See this thread for a Vid. It's not complete but maybe you can find what you need.
https://www.nitroforumz.com/threads/heater-core-replacement.45418/
There is also a good write up on Lost for a KK, in the tech section.
Only have heat on passenger side
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https://www.nitroforumz.com/threads/heater-core-replacement.45418/
There is also a good write up on Lost for a KK, in the tech section.
The fuzzy panel you speak of, there is a factory replacement that addresses this issue, it’s shaped differently and works great. I had the same problem, air was blowing on Linda’s feet but nothing on mine, now I get nice warm, toasty air blowing on my feet. Thanks, douglas
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I feel the difference. Took a photo but it does not really show it very well.
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I had the same problem a few months ago with heat only on the passenger side and i ended up flushing the heater core in both directions. This solved my problem right away for about 3 weeks then the problem was back and still is. I noticed when i flushed the heater core lots of pink filaments for lack of a better description. They were small and pliable and i never gave them any thought till now. I believe i will have to flush out the whole engine and heater and radiator then refill the cooling system. i believe that will solve my problem.
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So here we go with this whole heat issue...replaced the heater distribution box and heater core. The service dept said when that issues occurs it’s the heater box. The old one looked like it was fine. All the doors worked. My only thought for having luke warm heat on the pass side and cold on the drivers side is due to coolant tubes along the fins being clogged. Both heater core pipes where hot before removed and all doors where working on original box. Reason for changing both the heater distribution box along with the heater core is, taking the dash apart sucks. Heat is working great for now. BUY A CHEVY!
@DieselTech Got any Pics of the project?
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No pics, sorry. I can help with questions though.
That's cool.(pun intended)
Its just nice to have Pics of some things.
Did you see the lost post?
Still not sure why you also replace the distribution box?
Was there any design changes to the new one?
Did you go OEM for the new core? I thought I saw an after market one on line that appeared to have larger tubes in it.
Its just nice to have Pics of some things.
Did you see the lost post?
Still not sure why you also replace the distribution box?
Was there any design changes to the new one?
Did you go OEM for the new core? I thought I saw an after market one on line that appeared to have larger tubes in it.
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Morning,
Good God that's a lot of information on this topic, all very helpful as I'm experiencing a similar issue. I'm getting great heat from my passenger vents, less than stellar on my driver's side center vent, and minimal heat on my far left vent. Furthermore, I get no heat on the driver side feet. I've noticed that the heat output improves marginally when my RPM's increase, so I'm not sure if that changes anything. Regardless of temp, the air flow output overall has not changed.
The issue I run into is that I have a 6 and 1/2 month old daughter, so my ability to spend hours working on the rig is limited. Furthermore, I live in a condo with no hose spigot, so the idea of me flushing my own heater core is out (this is a convenient excuse to use in order to cover up the fact that I am not very handy and don't trust myself to undertake this endeavor). My question is, would this be something my local (and very well trusted) auto shop can do for me? I know they do a full coolant system flush, but I don't know if a heater core flush would be included in that. I can always ask them, but I thought I'd check here first to see if anyone has had this done for them, how it went, what it ran, etc.?
Good God that's a lot of information on this topic, all very helpful as I'm experiencing a similar issue. I'm getting great heat from my passenger vents, less than stellar on my driver's side center vent, and minimal heat on my far left vent. Furthermore, I get no heat on the driver side feet. I've noticed that the heat output improves marginally when my RPM's increase, so I'm not sure if that changes anything. Regardless of temp, the air flow output overall has not changed.
The issue I run into is that I have a 6 and 1/2 month old daughter, so my ability to spend hours working on the rig is limited. Furthermore, I live in a condo with no hose spigot, so the idea of me flushing my own heater core is out (this is a convenient excuse to use in order to cover up the fact that I am not very handy and don't trust myself to undertake this endeavor). My question is, would this be something my local (and very well trusted) auto shop can do for me? I know they do a full coolant system flush, but I don't know if a heater core flush would be included in that. I can always ask them, but I thought I'd check here first to see if anyone has had this done for them, how it went, what it ran, etc.?
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So I went through this whole issue a bout a month ago with my brothers Jeep. I have a couple of post in this page and the previous one. Both pipes for heater core where scolding hot. You can try to flush it and then bleed the system with the Allen screw out of the drivers side gooseneck of the engine. I went through that whole process, checked all the actuators and the doors. The distribution box, all worked fine. I went to the service sept at Jeep and they told me that when this happens they replace the heater box. They had no explanation for me. I figured all that work to remove the dash to replace the box, I mine as well replace he heater core. I just went with an aftermarket one. Way cheaper, the box is a dealer item. Believe it was around $300. Heater core was $120. Replaced all of that, added antifreeze, ran system, bled system and topped off. Great heat from all vents. I also took the foam filters off of the evaporator, just for more air flow. Do it yourself, around $500. Dealer wanted $2000. If you know a decent shop maybe they can give you a deal. I’d still imagine they would charge $1500. It’s a pretty crappy job if you haven’t done one before in those year jeeps.
Shops tend not to take the time to isolate each system when they do a flush because it takes to much time. So you will need to ask them specifically to do this if you are having a full coolant system flush done. More info here.https://www.nitroforumz.com/threads/please-help-if-you-can-08-nitro-heating-issue.43276/#post-282269
If you want just the core done, ask specifically how they do it.
I watch a youtube vid that used compressed air and they blew out the heater core seals. Then they got to charge the customer for a new core + install(since the core is now leaking and was not before it was brought in.).
Also, make sure they only use HOAT coolant to refill it(like Zerex G-05).
Sorry I can't give you a cost to have this done. I DIY my rig.
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No sweat, I appreciate the feedback. I managed to find some videos on how to do this, doesn't seem too terribly complicated. Here's my dumb question....if I don't do the flush, would this be something that can impact my AC in the summer?
Yes, it could potentially make it colder. LOL
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Wow. I've been reading these posts for hours! I'm stuck with a 2010 Nitro that has had heat issues for years! I had it flushed twice before the heater core replacement (was told about the casting sand left in the block), and I've had it flushed twice since. My mechanics were at a Dodge dealership, which recently closed, so they referred me to a radiator service center. They told me I have a cracked head gasket, which is allowing air into the system, but I am not experiencing the symptoms they described (running hot, overheating, hot and cold intermittently)!! I'm skeptical, but desperate! Has anyone tried replacing the head gasket, and did it solve the problem?
Stephanie,
There are tests that can be run to see of there are exhaust, or fuel gasses in the coolant. If either are present in the coolant then odds are there is a head problem.
If neither are present then there are other issues at play.
A simple test you can do is to smell the coolant. If it smells like fuel or exhaust, you have a problem. Also, with the rig running, you will get a lot of bubbles in the coolant reservoir with an exhaust gas leak.
If you don't see any of the above then...
Might as well start with the least $ fix. Buy a new radiator cap. Remember to only change it when the engine/coolant is cold!
There are tests that can be run to see of there are exhaust, or fuel gasses in the coolant. If either are present in the coolant then odds are there is a head problem.
If neither are present then there are other issues at play.
A simple test you can do is to smell the coolant. If it smells like fuel or exhaust, you have a problem. Also, with the rig running, you will get a lot of bubbles in the coolant reservoir with an exhaust gas leak.
If you don't see any of the above then...
Might as well start with the least $ fix. Buy a new radiator cap. Remember to only change it when the engine/coolant is cold!
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thanks for everybodys work on this issue I have a 2007 dodge nitro slt no heat on drivers side I went and flushed the heater core. that is a back flush and then I flushed the rest of the cooling system refilled it then checked I had heat more then ever before out of all vents. thanks again
Welcome to the forum David Reasor. When you have a chance, head over to the Newbie Section and say "Hi".
Tell us a little about yourself and your ride.
That way we can welcome you all proper like.
Glad to hear you have found the forum useful. It makes our efforts all worth while when we hear another success story!
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Bought my '11 Nitro in Jan '17 and went all winter with no heat on drivers side. Found this forum last winter and after several flushes had heat! Starting this winter all over again. Had the thought there has to be a better way. Found a hack from a couple of XJ owners of running a coolant filter. Flushed and installed today and we shall see how it goes. Will keep all posted. Side note, install is a breeze!
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