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Newbie here, is there any way to open the rear hatch with no power? I can't remove the liftgate until I can open it? There has to be a way to unlock the rear????
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
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Newbie here, is there any way to open the rear hatch with no power? I can't remove the liftgate until I can open it? There has to be a way to unlock the rear????
Welcome to the forum LisaBatts. :wave:
When you have a chance, head over to the
Newbie Section and say "Hi".
Tell us a little about yourself and your ride.
That way we can welcome you all proper like.
See the other thread you posted in.
 

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So ... Not the original poster but I have the exact same issue. 2007 Nitro. Unlocks, but won't lock. Dome light goes off w/ drivers door closed. All door locks seem strong on the unlock pulse, and I hear the relay at the power center on the unlock pulse, but not when I push lock or use the fob (disconnected the horn)
Mine aren't working. Found blown fuse. Replaced. Blew immediately. Is there a relay that could be shorted?
 

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The Univalent Radical
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Newbie here, is there any way to open the rear hatch with no power? I can't remove the liftgate until I can open it? There has to be a way to unlock the rear????
Welcome to the forum. The latch for the hatch is located behind the small square door located in the center of the hatch's interior panel.

:cool:
 

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Hi all,

Sorry if i shouldnt be bringing up an existing old topic

Was after some insight on a problem my wife's KK Jeep Liberty is having. Im posting on a Nitro forum, because my understanding is that they are more or less the same car (same TIPM and other electricals)

We own a 2009 Jeep Liberty Limited, Auto, 3.7L. Currently has 50000 miles, and owned since new. Im in Australia.

The problem: Once every couple of days, the power lock's locking function does not function at all.

The problem is present on both keys, as well as the driver side (front right in aus) power lock control switch, and passenger power lock control switch (i.e. completely unrelated to a key problem obviously). The key does however still arm the actual alarm system, just doesn't lock the doors. Nonetheless, keys or in-car switches - cannot lock any of the doors or tailgate

It does not sound like there is even any attempt of a motor even trying to lock the doors (i.e. its not a stuck actuator for example). Its as if you are doing nothing at all when pressing the lock switches. Like the car battery were disconnected

All 4 doors, as well as the tailgate do not lock at all.

Unlock however is a different story. It always works perfect at all times

If you manually lock any of the 4 doors by just pushing the actual lock knob, you are able to unlock the doors in any way you want - whether it be from the driver/passengers lock control switch, the keys unlock button, or even by simply opening the drivers door.

I have changed the little fuse for the power locks just for something to do, and the locking problem has made no difference. It was not blown, nor does the new one blow

Tried disconnecting the car battery for half an hour, still made no difference

As mentioned, this issue can occur roughly 3 times a week, and the only way it starts working again, is just simply by chance. e.g. leaving the car for a few hours or even overnight sometimes. Other times, the problem is only there for 15 minutes.

I phoned my local Jeep dealer, who put me onto their auto electrician which they use. I spoke with him, and he simply said that its not worth looking at, until the problem is there for certain/full time, so he can accurately diagnose and repair it (as its out of warranty now, Ill have to pay for a repair).

For the sake of checking, I followed this guide to check for any computer codes

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=_Ey98NHFrIA

No error codes came up

From what Ive read online, these are the only things I can think that would be causing it

1. The TIPM - I believe this unit has 3 relays inside of it, 1 which controls unlocking, and 2 relays which control the locking feature.
If this is the case, is it possible to change over these relays easily? Do they just pull out or are they soldered on there? Where can I get replacement ones (shipped to Australia)? They seem to be very small. Its not easy to get a replacement TIPM here, and would be a fortune.

I found this post showing a bit more on this - my understanding is the Nitro is the same thing, but I wasnt clear on whether the relays are something which can be changed on these boards.

http://www.nitroforumz.com/showthread.php?t=40350&page=2
http://www.nitroforumz.com/showthread.php?t=40350&page=3


2. I read somewhere a couple of weeks ago (and cant find the thread now) that there is a relay in the front-right footwell - which is your passenger side/my driver side (maybe underneath some plastics) for the locking feature? Is this accurate? Are they hard to change i.e. pull out? where is it exactly? are they just a standard relay? This would be a nice easy step to do regardless if this is the case


3. Is there a master door motor actuator which triggers the other 3? If so, is it front left door? Front Right door? Could a faulty actuator, prevent the remainder of the other 3 door locks and tailgate to fail to lock as well? or are they individually wired to work alone.
How about the driver or passenger power lock control switches - if one of them were to fail, could that kill the entire circuit?


Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Im hoping its not going to end up with me organising an entire aftermarket power lock kit be installed at a car radio shop (which works indepedent to anything in the Jeep system)

thanks
Anthony
 

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hi, type in 'TIPM repair' and read ALL the info.
check fuse M38, if the fuse has blown you could try another, however DO NOT replacing this fuse more than 3 times, each time it blows you could be causing more damage to the TIPM.
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
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Welcome to the forum Anthony. :wave:
When you have a chance, head over to the Newbie Section and say "Hi".
Tell us a little about yourself and your ride.
That way we can welcome you all proper like.

The thread you linked to in your post, is the one you will need to view. It has all the information you asked about.
The internal relays are soldered to the PCB in the TIPM. Not sure what the cost/availability of a new/used TIPM is in Australia? If you can get a new one fairly cheap, that would be the way to go. Used can be a little more complicated. If you get a used one it has to be from the same type of rig you have, with the same options. A KA (Nitro) TIPM will not work in a KK. The programing is different.
You may be able to talk to your local dealer to see if they can re-program a used TIPM to your Jeeps configuration. Here in the stated our dealers will not do this.

If one door lock actuator is bad, the others will still work.
 

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Hi,

You guys have been VERY helpful in the past, so I'm back to ask the experts.

I just started having the lock problem. WILL UNLOCK with key fab and driver side button. But WILL NOT lock with drivers button or key fab. Horn will blow whenyou hit the key fab. I would say right now it's 50/50 when it works.

Any Ideas?

Thanks,

Vince
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
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29,722 Posts
Could be the master switch (drivers door), TIPM unlock relay (internal to the TIPM), or a computer glitch.
Other info is in previous posts above, but remember the Euro version is slightly different from the US version. (extra relay behind the kick plate)

Try a Neg battery disconnect for 10 minutes and see what happens.
Next would be to check the master switch plugs. You can do this while the battery is disconnected.
Everything goes through the master switch, then out to the locks, so that could be the source. But the master switch has to first get the power, and signal, from the TIPM for it to work. Since it is not working with both the fob and switch, that eliminates the WCM as the issue.

So, then we are looking at parts... TIPM or switch...
Door switch is the less of the two, but may not be the issue...

Depending how far you want to trouble shoot this, you could test the wires at the door latch/lock to see if/when it works. Then trace back to next junction point. Unless you want to rip the rig apart to get to all the wires and trace them... Well you get the idea.
Dealer Diag is about $100, but since it is intermittent they may not find anything.
You can dissect your TIPM and check the relays. It is VERY time consuming and not that easy to do.
Which brings us full circle... What to do?
My gut says it is a relay issue on the TIPM. Just guessing here...
 

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Thanks for the advice, I'll try the battery reset.

Since I posted everything has been working. It'll be one of those that I'll have to wait till it stops working all together.

Thanks again,

Vince
 

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hey guys iv been here before had awesome feedback the last time so now I have big problem with my 2010 nitro got home tried to lock it with remote key 10seconds later passenger door unlocks and front windows roll down mind you all other doors are remain locked had to take out battery from fob key and lock manually alarm still turns on but I have unlock with key alarm go's off and I have to quickly insert key in ignition to disable alarm help anyone
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
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If removing the battery from the fob caused your issue to stop, I think you answered your own question.
To me it sounds like the fob is at fault. Maybe a button sticking?
 

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if it is my fob key why is my car starting with no problem iv read that when its the fob key the car won't even start my car starts fine this all started when I put a brand new battery in my fob key I just don't want to pay over 200 for a new key my car only came with 1 key when I bought it at a used car dealership trying to start with the littlest things first before I go a pay a arm/leg for it I called the service dept and they said they've never heard of a car doing that
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
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Try putting the battery back in the fob. Make sure the buttons are sitting correctly in their holes and the battery you are using is the correct one, before you put the back on the fob.
 

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Last thursday i had a issue with my 2010 nitro. I noticed that my rear window was down. I pushed the button on drivers side door, window did not go up. I tried the button on the rear door window would not go up.

At first i thought maybe this was related to my passenger side rear door issue where door would not lock or unlock from controls or fob.

I opened the door that was having trouble with the window, i pushed the button to put window up, and the window rolled up... ok so i thought it was fixed. I closed rear door and window would roll down by itself. Only way i was able to get the window to stay up was to keep the door open, and push the window lock button on drivers side door.

I then decided to disconnect negative terminal, and wait 30 minutes. After disconnecting negative terminal, the problem with the rear window has not happened again. It was strange because when i would close the rear door the window would roll down by itself. Maybe just a electricsl gremlin?

So, luckily for me it hasn't happened again. But my question now is, why does my other rear door not unlock or lock with fob ir controls from driverside door? This is only happening to 1 door.

The dealer wants a $200 diagnostic fee to look at the door, and then u would have to pay for parts and labor.

I do have a extended warranty, but per the dealer i would have to have them do the diagnostic at $200, and if the part is covered warranty would pick up diagnostic fee and parts and labor. If part is not covered i have to pay $200, parts and labor. . So they wouldn't know if its covered until after they diagnose the problem...

So can i tackle this job on my own? Its only 1 door so ik guessing the problem pertains to only that door...
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
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The first issue sounds like a chafed wire in between the door and jam. When you open the door the wire does not make contact. When you close the door the wire makes contact and the window rolls down. By locking out the windows via the master drivers switch, you killed power to the rear window wires.

Issue 2.
Does the door unlock/lock when using the front passenger door switch?
When manually pulling up/down on the lock pin, is the resistance the same as the other ones on the other doors?
Again this could be a wiring issue or it could be the actuator.
$200 Diag is a little high IMO. My dealer only charges $100, and sometimes $0 if I ask them to check for errors when having an oil change done.
Do you have another dealer close by?
 

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Since i disconnected the battery i have not have the issue with the window going down on its own. But, the issue with the door lock i noticed when i lock or unlock using key fob or switch, i can see that the lock pin looks like it tries to move but doesnt. The lock pin does not have the same resistance as the other doors. This lock pin moves more freely.
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
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If the lock pin moves more freely, does it unlock the door when pulling it up?
This is really strange since the lock pin is attached to the actuator in the door latch mechanism.
 

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Hi, Inside the locking mechanism there is a spring which gives a little help, and holds the locking pin in position ( locked or unlocked ), if the spring has broken then the locking pin will not hold it's correct position. when you lock the car, the vehicles computer receives a signal that the door lock pin is in the open position, so the computer unlocks the door. ( i think thats what is happening ).
as for the window that was strange.
 
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