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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2007 4.0 stalls at idle after driving approx 5 miles. It restarts but has no power for about 5 seconds. It only does this once and then runs fine.
 

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Seen this happen with the crankshaft or camshaft position sensor. Both are fairly cheap. Intermittent failures are common and them testing good doesn't mean they are good. The failures happen when they warm up and then they act normally once they cool a bit
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Seen this happen with the crankshaft or camshaft position sensor. Both are fairly cheap. Intermittent failures are common and them testing good doesn't mean they are good. The failures happen when they warm up and then they act normally once they cool a bit
No CEL. Thanks for the reply. I am just loathe to spend money on maybe. I kind of figured those may be the problem from my browsing the topic. I think I will give it a try.
I drive part time for a parts place and can easily get and return parts for my own car. A
Local garage will install them. I will post back but it will be awhile.
Thanks again!
 

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Get a cheap Obd2 Bluetooth reader and the Android torque app and pull codes.

No CEL doesn't mean that there are no codes.

Probably egr or crank/camsensor or a bad coil pack.

Pull (change) spark plugs and look at their condition
 

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Get a cheap Obd2 Bluetooth reader and the Android torque app and pull codes.

No CEL doesn't mean that there are no codes.

Probably egr or crank/camsensor or a bad coil pack.

Pull (change) spark plugs and look at their condition
You are spot on with the CEL. It doesn't always come on when there is an issue.

Almost all vehicles on the road have condition codes stored in memory. It doesn't always mean there are problems though. It could be something as simple as the AC blend door did not actuate within the specified time. But you could take a 6 month old vehicle and find codes pulled by a diagnostic scanner.

But I still say to just replace the camshaft and crankshaft sensors. There is no need for a shop for the job, it's not hard at all. If you can replace plugs, you can do this.
 

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2007 4.0 stalls at idle after driving approx 5 miles. It restarts but has no power for about 5 seconds. It only does this once and then runs fine.
Hi I dont know if this your fix for your problem but my 2010 nitro 3.7 was doing the same thing and then eventually one day i had went in a store and came out and the horn was blowing windshield wipers going and when I out the key in the ignition it cranked but everything was still going crazy and it would go into gear. So my husband took the negative post off of the battery and everything was fine. It didnt do it again for a long time then one day the same thing happened and the next day there was no lights on dash or anything and it wouldnt crank at all it was dead we had bought a new battery earlier too. But my truck would cut off while you were driving. Well I ordered TIPM rebuilt for 350.00 already PROGRAMMED with a year warranty and I replaced it myself. Havent had a problem since. The dealership wanted 1700.00 just for the part and the total cost would have been 3000.00 I replaced it in 30 minutes myself for 350.00 and a few minutes. And I got a refund for my old one I sent in. Might want to check that out. Hope it helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hi I dont know if this your fix for your problem but my 2010 nitro 3.7 was doing the same thing and then eventually one day i had went in a store and came out and the horn was blowing windshield wipers going and when I out the key in the ignition it cranked but everything was still going crazy and it would go into gear. So my husband took the negative post off of the battery and everything was fine. It didnt do it again for a long time then one day the same thing happened and the next day there was no lights on dash or anything and it wouldnt crank at all it was dead we had bought a new battery earlier too. But my truck would cut off while you were driving. Well I ordered TIPM rebuilt for 350.00 already PROGRAMMED with a year warranty and I replaced it myself. Havent had a problem since. The dealership wanted 1700.00 just for the part and the total cost would have been 3000.00 I replaced it in 30 minutes myself for 350.00 and a few minutes. And I got a refund for my old one I sent in. Might want to check that out. Hope it helps.
I think I may start with the cam and crank sensors. Never had a Chrysler product in 60 years. Never will again.
 

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I think I may start with the cam and crank sensors. Never had a Chrysler product in 60 years. Never will again.
I like my nitro have had it since 2012 it's a 2010 it has almost 300,00 miles on it and it is still kicking. I guess you have to put some money in it. I have probably put in maybe 300.00 in all those years I think that's pretty good. Good luck on yours I would like to know how it goes.
 
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