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Mine does this intermittant. But turning key off and on still works. Perhaps I should buy a sensor just in case.
 
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Trooper Dan you are a life saver
Got a check engine light today same extended crank symptom got home vehicle wouldn't start tried cycling the key and lo and behold it started right up. Got it to the shop but it wouldn't restart (Great) better not be a fuel pump I'm getting real tired of dropping coin into a 10 year old vehicle with 120k on it.
Also my traction control light came on solid at about the same time as the CEL if anyone has experience with these two issues being linked let me know but it seems strictly coincidental to me
 

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Update 12/21/17
Mine ended up being the cam sensor or so I'm told picked up my keys a little earlier and it started right up no CEL. Gotta wait till later to actually pick the vehicle up as I currently have a 2 vehicles (borrowed one today) and only one driver. I'll try and post an update on the long term results. However the cam sensor makes sense as this sends the signal to the ignition coils to fire (in loose terms) I think
 

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Hi all, been a long time lurker and now first time poster. I am having this issue also and it started to happen right after I changed the cam sensor about a month ago. Truck has been sitting sense except for a couple short runs to the store. Replaced the crank sensor today. My ETC light is on as well as my CEL (original reason for the cam sensor being replaced as that was the code I got) any other ideas as to why it would still over crank? Its about a 5-8 second crank and happens each start up.
 

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Hi all, been a long time lurker and now first time poster. I am having this issue also and it started to happen right after I changed the cam sensor about a month ago. Truck has been sitting sense except for a couple short runs to the store. Replaced the crank sensor today. My ETC light is on as well as my CEL (original reason for the cam sensor being replaced as that was the code I got) any other ideas as to why it would still over crank? Its about a 5-8 second crank and happens each startup.


Possible fuel pressure issues but that's just a stab in the dark guess sounds like it's taking x amount of time to build pressure but again just a guess
 

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I replaced that part about a month ago. I guess it is possible that I received a bad one because this problem was not happening before I replaced it. I will also listen for the fuel pump before starting when I go out later to start it. :)
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
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I replaced that part about a month ago. I guess it is possible that I received a bad one because this problem was not happening before I replaced it. I will also listen for the fuel pump before starting when I go out later to start it. :)
For some parts OEM are best. This is one of them.
 

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That is longer then normal. But it won't hurt anything except maybe the lifespan of the battery and/or the starter.
Next time you drive it, I want you to try something and get back with the results.
Drive it a distance this normally occurs, park it, turn off the radio, shut down the Nitro, and do your business like you normally would.

When you come back to the Nitro, put the key in and turn it to the "Run" position but do not start it!

In this position the fuel pump and other electrical components will run. Your instrument lights will also do a self check.
What I need you to do durring this time, is to listen for the hum from the fuel pump (you should hear it behind you, it is in the fuel tank), and mentally take note of how long it runs. It will turn off when adequate pressure is reached.
Once you hear the pump turn off, try to start the rig. Let us know if it starts normally, or if there is still an extended cranking.

You can also do the same thing before a cold start, and compare how long the fuel pump runs.
Scar0, this is my scenario too. Can you tell me the significance of turning the key to run position. What does that tell me is actually wrong? It was happening about once a month, now more frequent. I thank you for all you do here on the forum. My mechanics "hate" me when I learn!
 

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Update 12/21/17
Mine ended up being the cam sensor or so I'm told picked up my keys a little earlier and it started right up no CEL. Gotta wait till later to actually pick the vehicle up as I currently have a 2 vehicles (borrowed one today) and only one driver. I'll try and post an update on the long term results. However the cam sensor makes sense as this sends the signal to the ignition coils to fire (in loose terms) I think
NitromanDan, I have been experiencing the exact cranking symptoms. For about a year now, it will do this every now and then. Much more frequent recently. I started having issue with my abs warnings around the same time. Never a cel. Code showed bad brake module but I insisted they checked wheel sensors. One was bad. Changed. No abs warnings for 3 months. This week, four times bad crank and abs and brake warnings on and off. What was final thought on your issue? Comparable?
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
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Scar0, this is my scenario too. Can you tell me the significance of turning the key to run position. What does that tell me is actually wrong? It was happening about once a month, now more frequent. I thank you for all you do here on the forum. My mechanics "hate" me when I learn!
What this does is to prime the fuel lines. I call it the "key dance". It is kinda a test to see if the fuel lines are loosing pressure.
Typical dance is; Key on, do not try to start, key off. Repeat 2 more times, then start it.
I had a Cherokee that I had to do the "key dance" to get it to start for years. My son now has it and is still doing the dance.
 

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Wouldn’t once be enough to run the fuel pump?
Thanks. Douglas
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
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What would be the way to correct having to do the dance?
That is the problem. All the key dance does is to help indicate there is a problem. With fuel pressure, or air in the line. It could be a leaking injector, bad/low fuel pressure, faulty check valve in the pump, etc.

Wouldn’t once be enough to run the fuel pump?
Thanks. Douglas
The pump will run with each turn of the key. 3 key turns will usually build up full pressure and assist to remove air from the lines. It is not a cure, but can be used as a down and dirty way to indicate fuel delivery problems.
 

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Thank y'all so much! That helps me to understand. One mechanic had told me to do that when this first started and said it would indicate the problem if I looked at rpms while doing it but didn't explain. The other was saying it was possibly a faulty tipm.yikes! It makes me nervous because I travel a lot by myself. I wish they could pinpoint the issue but there are no codes. As far as the brake warnings and abs goes, I am not willing to change brake module until all sensors and wiring are checked. But, when I as a female, start spouting off, they don't want to deal with it!
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
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I've only heard of 1 person saying a TIPM fuel pump relay went bad here on the forum.
There were several other years/makes of Dodge and Jeeps with this problem.
But, if you do the "key dance" and can hear the fuel pump running during the key "on" part (it may be brief), the fuel pump relay is working.
Since the dance does try not start the rig until the last sequence. The RPM (tachometer)should do nothing. Until you actually try to start it.
 

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Update 12/21/17
Mine ended up being the cam sensor or so I'm told picked up my keys a little earlier and it started right up no CEL. Gotta wait till later to actually pick the vehicle up as I currently have a 2 vehicles (borrowed one today) and only one driver. I'll try and post an update on the long term results. However the cam sensor makes sense as this sends the signal to the ignition coils to fire (in loose terms) I think
I know it has been a while, but, I am getting the extended crank. Did cam sensor work? Thanks
 
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