Dodge Nitro Forum banner

41 - 60 of 66 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Hello! This issue exist and in my car sometimes last year. After the check at the main dealer, says to me ,maybe is the fuel pump a non return valve cannot close perfect and have a long time crank .No codes or engine light.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
You havs
Just wanted to post my experience on this thread as well. I had the exact same problem. Except mine wasn't fuel related. New tank, pump, spark plugs and a few other pieces. What needed up being the fix for me and another member here ended up being the camshaft position sensor. It's under the alternator and it's like a $12 part. Anytime my fiancés nitro was warmed up it took 5-6 seconds of cranking to start. I replaced it 2 days ago and and it's fired right up every single time since then. That was the only thing I have replaced other than the serpentine belt. Hope this helps anyone else having this problem.
what’s the part number? Or a pic? Ugh I’m Ha ing this problem to but don’t t want to get into changing a fuel pump. Rather try a $12 part first. Thanks!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Don't have part number, mechanic replaced. It was about a year ago, and it lessened the problem. But didn't fix it. When I say lessened, maybe four or five times since sensor replacement. I can see that there is no true solution to this mystery. But camshaft sensor is best point to begin. I do key dance if necessary. It has never left me stranded.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Hello everybody!
After adding 2-3 times fuel system cleaners , my Nitro has about 3 months,
without any cranking problem, seemed like fuel system was cleaned.
And non return valve on the fuel pump, hold the fuel in line.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Hello everybody!
After adding 2-3 times fuel system cleaners , my Nitro has about 3 months,
without any cranking problem, seemed like fuel system was cleaned.
And non return valve on the fuel pump, hold the fuel in line.
What product did you use? Even though I'm not currently having issue, I want to give that a try!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Hi Andrea,
I use Petrol system cleaner from a German company, called Autoprofi line, because
I find this product near my home ( gas station store). I live in Greece.
But exists so many other companies that have the same product.
By my opinion, use every 5-6 k. miles.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Thank you! I'm a "world" away in Texas, but I am going to initiate this into my maintenance. This situation with extended cranking is so odd. This almost makes sense to me. It's gone on for years, will do it frequently, then stop for months. I thought the cam sensor fixed it, but I just happened to be in a good stretch after it was changed. It hasn't done it recently, so a dirty fuel system would make it more sporadic. Thanks a bunch!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
And my problem of extended starting ,I notice it after about a year that’s my Nitro
wasn’t in use. I put in gas tank fuel stabiliser, but seems doesn’t work.
When I begin to drive my car , begin the problem of extended starting.
It’s a little hard to believe to me ,that the problem is a crank sensor,
or something else hardware, car has only 40000km, so the problem was the dirty fuel system ,that’s don’t allow the non return valve at the fuel pump unit, to hold the gas in system. After 2-3 times of filling petrol ,adding system cleaner, driving a little harder than usual, seems the fuel system was cleaned,and newer have a difficult start.
My advice is to add in fuel some kind of petrol system cleaners, to keep clean the system,
periodically.
Hello from Greece!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Thank you! I'm a "world" away in Texas, but I am going to initiate this into my maintenance. This situation with extended cranking is so odd. This almost makes sense to me. It's gone on for years, will do it frequently, then stop for months. I thought the cam sensor fixed it, but I just happened to be in a good stretch after it was changed. It hasn't done it recently, so a dirty fuel system would make it more sporadic. Thanks a bunch!
Be careful to use fuel injector cleaners cause they will eventually burn your catalytic converters. I had a Nissan Quest and I thought it be a good idea to make sure I had injectors and even motor clean using fuel cleaners and it just burned that honeycomb inside that catalytic converter up. nasty damage and expensive. Be careful using those, depends how much and how ofter. Youre putting "fuel" power to your cylinders and that exhaust comes out hotter than normal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
That is the problem. All the key dance does is to help indicate there is a problem. With fuel pressure, or air in the line. It could be a leaking injector, bad/low fuel pressure, faulty check valve in the pump, etc.


The pump will run with each turn of the key. 3 key turns will usually build up full pressure and assist to remove air from the lines. It is not a cure, but can be used as a down and dirty way to indicate fuel delivery problems.
Im having same problems with startup. I used one of the advice here of "turning the key to the acc 3 times and then cranking it" and it works and so I figured that its a fuel pressure problem. On my 2007 Durango, it doesn't have a fuel pressure pump (similar to an EGR) or a fuel filter outside. My Flex Fuel pump was already replaced about 2 yrs ago and I really don't think it could be it but just to eliminate right now something that big of a job, what else could it be? I checked leaks along the lines to the front of the injectors and there is no leaks. what do u suggest could be the problem if I just replaced the fuel pump no more than 2yrs ago (& to not start with a big job like that..lol) could it be anything from the EVAP system? maybe im looking in the wrong place.
 

·
Khaki Nitro Nut
Joined
·
30,009 Posts
Welcome to the forum @smnamn05. When you have a chance, head over to the Newbie Section (<click this) and say "Hi".
Tell us a little about yourself and your ride.
That way we can welcome you all proper like.

Hard to say for sure. I don't have manuals for the Durango, so I don't know what fuel pressure should be, or what the expected leak-down time should be. It could be a leaking injector.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Nitrogen

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
I had this issue and got key replacements. this fixed my issue. something about the alarm/trasponder and it being in valet mode or some mumbo jumbo.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
I had this issue and got key replacements. this fixed my issue. something about the alarm/trasponder and it being in valet mode or some mumbo jumbo.
Oh my gosh! I've never heard this before. Tell me more!!! How long has it been? Here is my overview of this problem. There is a ton of different solutions. But this extended crank thing can go a year or more before resurfacing. When you think you have it fixed, I comes back. Just like with my cam sensor.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
So many posts about this exact problem, and never a solid solution. No codes, and it is so intermittent, that when you think it has been solved, it does it again. Cam sensor did not resolve, I will continue to do the "key dance" until my dancing partner doesn't want to dance any more😂. It has only extended cranked once in the last few months. I will be adding a bottle of sea foam cleaner to my fuel soon...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
429 Posts
I was having similar issue randomly. Later during the winter I started getting MIL with injector failure.
One day error became permanent - went on each trip.
Engine was running smoothly.
I’ve removed air intake and measure the resistance. Limit is 125ohm I was getting around 110 on 6th Cyl.
All others were about 60ohm if I recall correctly. I replaced the injector and error was gone and also random long cranking was gone.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Nitrogen

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
I was having similar issue randomly. Later during the winter I started getting MIL with injector failure.
One day error became permanent - went on each trip.
Engine was running smoothly.
I’ve removed air intake and measure the resistance. Limit is 125ohm I was getting around 110 on 6th Cyl.
All others were about 60ohm if I recall correctly. I replaced the injector and error was gone and also random long cranking was gone.
I am not getting any codes. BUT I am keeping this info for when I do. This problem is never consistent, just bothersome. It may go months without resurfacing. I appreciate your input, let me know the length of time you've gone now without the extended crank if you have a moment!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
429 Posts
Longer than 2 years. However I had to change a spark plug module on 5th cyl few months later. No error, but car never became “ready for emission testing” on OBD and there were around 10 misfires registered during the trip.Since then no issues. Emission test ok, no long cranking, smooth idles.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
I fixed my problem after having own the car for 10 years and no one could fix it. I sold the piece of CRAP and bought a Ford. I had nothing but one problem after another with it. They even had someone come in from another state to look at it and he couldn't figure it out. It had been at Dodge for over a month. They put numerous parts on it, but nothing fixed the problems. I was not charged. I drove it for another year and got rid of it. Nice to have a vehicle now that I can depend on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
429 Posts
I would agree Nitro doesn’t define the quality baseline...
I’ve replaced so far TIPM, 1x injector, 1x spark plug module, cabin blower
Leak in trunk - finally found
All that in under 240k km
On the other side - in US it was just $25k- $29k vehicle with V6, 4x4, A/C, towing capacity 2700kg and auto trans... here it was sold ( due to taxes, customs, and premium) for $70k - stupid price, that’s why Nitro is rare here.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
132 Posts
Here's my situation, and hopefully correction. Found this thread while searching repairs for the issue. Just bought the truck, (2011 Dakota) with the 3.7, had the long crank times, smell of gas after start, rough idle. Swapped out the plugs first, noticed one was brown around the ceramic, rather than white like the rest. Didn't do anything at that time, did more research, I didn't believe it was electronical since it was not throwing codes. Didn't think it was fuel pump since it ran fine after start. That narrowed it down to injectors. Started truck this morning, only let it run for a few seconds, shut it down. Pulled the plugs, one was brown, and slightly damp from gas. Swapped out that injector, seems fine now. A couple days will tell the tale. The reason I'm posting is let everyone know to check the plugs, if one is different, that cylinder is the problem. NAPA Echlin injector, $38, 3yr warranty, not real hard to change. Thanks utube!
 
41 - 60 of 66 Posts
Top