what’s the part number? Or a pic? Ugh I’m Ha ing this problem to but don’t t want to get into changing a fuel pump. Rather try a $12 part first. Thanks!!!Just wanted to post my experience on this thread as well. I had the exact same problem. Except mine wasn't fuel related. New tank, pump, spark plugs and a few other pieces. What needed up being the fix for me and another member here ended up being the camshaft position sensor. It's under the alternator and it's like a $12 part. Anytime my fiancés nitro was warmed up it took 5-6 seconds of cranking to start. I replaced it 2 days ago and and it's fired right up every single time since then. That was the only thing I have replaced other than the serpentine belt. Hope this helps anyone else having this problem.
What product did you use? Even though I'm not currently having issue, I want to give that a try!Hello everybody!
After adding 2-3 times fuel system cleaners , my Nitro has about 3 months,
without any cranking problem, seemed like fuel system was cleaned.
And non return valve on the fuel pump, hold the fuel in line.
Be careful to use fuel injector cleaners cause they will eventually burn your catalytic converters. I had a Nissan Quest and I thought it be a good idea to make sure I had injectors and even motor clean using fuel cleaners and it just burned that honeycomb inside that catalytic converter up. nasty damage and expensive. Be careful using those, depends how much and how ofter. Youre putting "fuel" power to your cylinders and that exhaust comes out hotter than normal.Thank you! I'm a "world" away in Texas, but I am going to initiate this into my maintenance. This situation with extended cranking is so odd. This almost makes sense to me. It's gone on for years, will do it frequently, then stop for months. I thought the cam sensor fixed it, but I just happened to be in a good stretch after it was changed. It hasn't done it recently, so a dirty fuel system would make it more sporadic. Thanks a bunch!
Im having same problems with startup. I used one of the advice here of "turning the key to the acc 3 times and then cranking it" and it works and so I figured that its a fuel pressure problem. On my 2007 Durango, it doesn't have a fuel pressure pump (similar to an EGR) or a fuel filter outside. My Flex Fuel pump was already replaced about 2 yrs ago and I really don't think it could be it but just to eliminate right now something that big of a job, what else could it be? I checked leaks along the lines to the front of the injectors and there is no leaks. what do u suggest could be the problem if I just replaced the fuel pump no more than 2yrs ago (& to not start with a big job like that..lol) could it be anything from the EVAP system? maybe im looking in the wrong place.That is the problem. All the key dance does is to help indicate there is a problem. With fuel pressure, or air in the line. It could be a leaking injector, bad/low fuel pressure, faulty check valve in the pump, etc.
The pump will run with each turn of the key. 3 key turns will usually build up full pressure and assist to remove air from the lines. It is not a cure, but can be used as a down and dirty way to indicate fuel delivery problems.
Oh my gosh! I've never heard this before. Tell me more!!! How long has it been? Here is my overview of this problem. There is a ton of different solutions. But this extended crank thing can go a year or more before resurfacing. When you think you have it fixed, I comes back. Just like with my cam sensor.I had this issue and got key replacements. this fixed my issue. something about the alarm/trasponder and it being in valet mode or some mumbo jumbo.
I am not getting any codes. BUT I am keeping this info for when I do. This problem is never consistent, just bothersome. It may go months without resurfacing. I appreciate your input, let me know the length of time you've gone now without the extended crank if you have a moment!I was having similar issue randomly. Later during the winter I started getting MIL with injector failure.
One day error became permanent - went on each trip.
Engine was running smoothly.
I’ve removed air intake and measure the resistance. Limit is 125ohm I was getting around 110 on 6th Cyl.
All others were about 60ohm if I recall correctly. I replaced the injector and error was gone and also random long cranking was gone.