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Over the course of the last 9 months, I have followed all the posts related to no/poor heat in my 2008 3.7l 4x4 Nitro.

My symptoms are:

Very little heat after engine warmed up, but I do have some. I would say the air temp is in the 40-50 degree range even though it's below freezing outside.

The air coming out of the side window defrost vents is noticeably cooler than the vents above the radio.

The air coming out of the defrost is the warmest, but still just cool. The air coming out of the heater ducts is quite cool, but not cold like the outside air.

The hoses to and from the coil are very hot, in and out. SO I have not replaced the thermostat.

The radiator is full when cold & the reservoir is full up to the cold full line. Hoat fluid 50/50 mix used.

My air-conditioning in the summer is barely cold....just cool.

All of these things are AFTER the following. Before this, my air worked fine but I had the exact same heat problems as outlined above. So all I've accomplished is to spend a lot of money and weaken the air-conditioning!


What I've done:

I first flushed the heater coil, both ways. Water ran well. Ultimately I replaced it.

Since the hoses in and out were hot, I presumed under the dash was the problem.

I checked the actuators. They all worked.

I pulled off the dashboard and discovered broken gear teeth under the actuators.

I bought a brand new upper HVAC housing (the blend door housing) from Dodge.

Had a mechanic evacuate the freon (or whatever it is) and then recharge the system at the end.

Bought a new heater coil just because.

Put it all back together.

Everything works mechanically correct.

I made sure the coolant was still full and bled the system of air. I ended up putting about 1/4 gallon in doing this. Little change to the heat...perhaps a tiny, tiny bit more.

I did not replace the thermostat.

Of greater worry, is that I did not replace the foam seal on the highest and furthest forward blend door. I believed that to simply send air to heat, or vents, or defrost and I didn't care about leaks. The old one fell apart when I tried to use it. The much larger figure 8 shaped foam for a lower area I was able to reuse.

Should I still replace the thermostat? Is the lack of a foam seal on this highest and furthest forward blend door actually the problem? Is there something else I'm missing??

Is there a connection between heat problem and new air-conditioning problem, or does the air system simply need checking for leaks/recharge....perhaps from a poorly done recharge??

Two winters ago, the heat would be extremely strong even at 10F degrees out with the temp dial only half way. The air has never been VERY cold and would barely keep the inside cool on a 90 degree day.

Help!


Exasperated in cold Michigan!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Sorry for the second post. I could not figure out how to edit the original post in time and now I'm locked out of editing it. My reply to myself is my entire original post that was inexplicably cut in half. Perhaps an admin can fix the mess! lol
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
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Welcome to the forum LlamaDodge. When you have a chance, head over to the Newbie Section and say "Hi".
Tell us a little about yourself and your ride.
That way we can welcome you all proper like.

I fixed the first post for you. ;)

Sounds like you did not get the actuators reinstalled in the exact position they were, when you removed them.
They are not self calibrating.
Bad news is, only a dealer can calibrate them.

I have not had the HVAC apart in my rig, so I do not know how much the missing seal would affect the temperature, or if it would at all.
 

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Welcome to the forum LlamaDodge. When you have a chance, head over to the Newbie Section and say "Hi".
Tell us a little about yourself and your ride.
That way we can welcome you all proper like.

I fixed the first post for you. ;)

Sounds like you did not get the actuators reinstalled in the exact position they were, when you removed them.
They are not self calibrating.
Bad news is, only a dealer can calibrate them.

I have not had the HVAC apart in my rig, so I do not know how much the missing seal would affect the temperature, or if it would at all.

The actuators gears are a part of the blend door housing that I bought new from Dodge. It's all one unit...the upper housing and the actuator door gears. Are you saying that they STILL need to be calibrated? The actuator motors just slide over the gears, they only go on one way and I just manually adjusted the temp and direction knobs until the motors were in line with the screws holes.

:>(
 

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Khaki Nitro Nut
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That is correct. The new actuator motor has to be installed with everything lined up exactly the same as when the old ones were removed, in order for the previous calibration to work properly.
See this thread of another members issues and resolution.
https://www.nitroforumz.com/threads/no-heat-issue.44476/
 

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I had a similar issue.Went from great heat to no heat. I reverse flushed the heater core. which may have helped but I noticed very little coolant came out when I took off the hoses. I reversed the hoses and then and still have great heat. hope this helps
 

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Not an expert here but recently fought similar battle in my R/T......

To my knowledge and experience........

Don't worry about the foam seal, there isn't enough flow or pressure to concern the system with additional air.

The thermostat is replaceable for only like 15$ its worth a shot for the money. If they fail they are designed to fail so they stay open and let coolant run freely so engine don't over heat.... at 190F

air conditioners and heat are separate issues.... sorry.... faced exact same battle myself. Short of the blend door and acutators the setup is separate. The best bet is to take somewhere for a pro to release any oil/moisture in the system then add a dye to the refrigerant to find the leak. 95% of air conditioner leaks are pinhole and A/C Stop Leak PRO is a notorious good fix. I went against the grain and just added the Stop leak pro and 1 can of refrigerant to the system myself. mine quit 30 days after I bought mine from a used car dealership. So I feel they just added the bare minimum to get me down the road. Ive had Good luck so far and lasted better than 90 days, but adding too much oil and additive (supposedly) isn't good for the system. but im willing to try it for a few dollars myself. More times than not a recharge is from a leak, whether its large or tiny (AND I MEAN TINY) ive seen a couple systems that wouldn't leak out but every other year, and some in the same day. Most "tiny" leaks, by a lot of non-reputable, backyard mechanics, and "DIY'ers like me" just add refrigerant and go with it. Opening a line and releasing the gas usually ruptures the O-ring and is unuseable. If it is useable it rarely seals back to 100% like before. If it was properly vacummed out and caught like to code, it shouldn't have the same issues... although im not sure how the evacuate the gas properly???? Check the pressures on the lines, the upper lines should stay mid ways on the guage, if its low its obviously low... if its high (at or in the red) its the compressor, or compressor clutch.


I underwent the same on forum

https://www.nitroforumz.com/threads/progress-on-heater-core-tips.45444/#post-300379

I left the hoses on reversed and have had good luck with that. but I think the overall cleanse and flush was more important than the hose orientation.


Good luck

B
 
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