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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm up to darn near 2000 miles on the SLT.I'm going for the oil change early instead of recommended 3,000 miles. Of course I'll let the dealer do the freebie oil change and then I'm thinking I'll do the Synthetic change myself at about 4,000 to 5000. (I just don't trust 'em changing my oil when using synthetic..I know..Anal huh?) Uses the 5w-20 weight..Man the oil requirements are getting thinner all the time. whatever happened to 10w-40? Hmmm wonder what the filter options are? anybody done the research yet? Got the sale going at Advance Auto Parts 2 for 1 Syn..Penz or Quaker...almost reasonable.
Nick
 

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On my other cars I've used Valvoline dino, usually Napa labeled & a Napa/Wix filter.
This is my first new one and I understand starting them out on synthetic is the way to go. Not sure yet if Napa sells their own synthetic & 3.7l filter but I'll certainly be finding out soon enough!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
I've heard it's important that unless the engine comes with synthetic oil (some kind of a break in tolerance issue) that you do the break in period first on regular oil and then switch and stay with the synthetic. As far as filters all the top name filters are good... I usually use Purolator but Fram, Wix and the OEM's all good.
Oil has gotten thinner, but that's because it's gotten better. Thin gives the best flow at start up or in the cold. Today's oil is so good at not breaking down under heat (thermal breakdown) that thin is in.
Good example: I remember Harleys using straight 60 weight (man I'm old) now 20w50 does it all... and they're air cooled.
 

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I was at the dealer's this morning & asked them about this. They recommended waiting till 12000 miles to run synthetic. Wonder where these dealers get their info? It would be interesting to see something in writing from Dodge.
 

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Do a little research on oil filters sometime. Their not all that good. Look it up on Google & you've find several oil filter studies out there on the net.......

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html
http://www.ntpog.org/reviews/filters/filters.shtml
This is true. There are some unbrand or knock off filters out there that are what mechanics used to not so affectionately call "toilet paper filters". On the big name brands some have different advantages and are slightly better than others. But if you stick to a good name brand and change your oil at the correct intervals... they'll do the job.
 

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I just completed my second oil change at 7600 miles and then I'm switching to synthetic. In my opinion, it 's a better product. I use Fram 3600 series oil filters and Mobile 1 synthetic. It's a combination that has worked well for me.
 

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It's amsoil all the way for me. Their 5w20 is rated for 7500 miles with their filters and I just receive a bullitin from them on their new 0w20 which is rated at 25000 miles and the same milage with their extened life oil filter. Sounds extreme but I've run their oil in my F-350 Dually(110,000 miles and 97 GMC with 170,000) with not a hint of engine wear. Besides if the filter is that tough to get to I want to do it as sparingly as possible.:D
 

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You can switch to synthetic at any time. The "urban myth" is that you should wait some period of time because supposedly the "natural" oils will somehow better permeate the various seals and other soft bits, and seat them better than synthetics. If this was true, you wouldn't see things like Vipers shipping with synthetic from the factory.

That being said, a guy I used to know is an oil formulation engineer, and he runs nothing but diesel oil in everything he owns -- including his Viper, which is primarily a track car. The short version is that large fleet owners wanted a single oil for their gasoline and diesel vehicles, so the oil companies put together a package which could do this. The diesel oils have a lot more detergents than anything else, which is generally good.

On top of that, it is his opinion (and it's his job to know these things) that there is little difference between a modern "dino" oil and modern synthetics. It all comes down to additive packages, and by the time they're both done being chemically processed, what goes into the bottle on the autoparts rack is very similar. The only thing really worth paying attention to is the formulation markings on the bottles (such as SJ), and they're all going to be the same for anything you're likely to purchase.

Finally, you can't definitively make any statement about how good an oil is without a rigorous series of assay tests -- including clean oil samples to compare with the used samples, and so on. We go through this a lot on the various motorcycle boards (where the oil formulation is a lot more important due to the wet clutch designs and the way molybdenum levels affect clutch life).

So -- buy a good filter (Mopar, Bosch, or K&N win just about every one of those cut-them-apart-and-see comparisons somebody else mentioned), and run synthetic if you want to, and rest assured that just about everything available is very high quality these days.

:beerchug:
 

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I am going to step out on the ledge here and stay that I have 2 GM Vehicles, 1 Chevy Silverado 1500, and 1 Saturn ION.

Both have the "Oil Life System", which is nothing more then an onboard computer that monitors driving style, RPMS, etc, and pop's up a light when it thinks you should change your oil based on your driving conditions.

It doesn't actually have any sort of sensor that tests the oil.

But My point was that GM says that changing oil every 3,000 miles is 'OLD', that today's oil's don't break down like they did back in the 60's, they go on to say that if you change your oil every 3,000 miles you are wasting money, and natural resources.

Basically they say that the reason the 3,000 mile rule is still enforced by dealers and your local lube shop is just to charge you more money to change your oil that is still good.

GM suggest's that your every day oil is good for up to 7,000 miles depending on driving conditions. My "Oil Life" Change oil light always comes on right around 5,000 miles.

I tend to agree with them. Today's oils are FAR better than they were in the 60's, and last alot longer, pluse with the additives in use today that actually bond into the metal, oil has a much longer life cycle then it use to.

You can read the full "Oil Life" info from GM Here: http://www.gm.com/company/gmability/environment/news_issues/news/simplified_maintenance_040104.html

-TheChad
 

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Shoot, my Mercedes E500 typically went 10,000 to 15,000 miles before it "asked for" an oil change. Even if I drove it pretty hard, it usually came pretty close to 10K. My service writer said little-old-lady drivers typically run as much as 20,000 before the car needs a change.

However, I've read that the higher-end Benzes use some kind of elaborate and expensive multi-stage fleece-based oil filter system, so I suppose that probably contributes heavily to the extended mileage. Plus the E500 has an enormous oil pan -- 11 quarts, I think it was. More than the 9.5 qts in my Viper, at any rate.

The Nitro's oil pan at 6 qts is pretty healthy, too. With Mobil 1 running about $22/gallon, keeping synthetics in all these cars and motorcycles gets pricey when I decide to do an oil-change weekend...
 

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It seems that this subject is the most highly debatable topic on any car forum. There are standards that have to be met and they are tested so if you change regularly pretty much any oil on the market will suffice, if like me you tend to extend the changes somewhat it may make you feel better to spend a few extra bucks for the syn.
 

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14.4mpg (me too) - my complete maintenance "kit"

I have also been in a determined search on how to get my 2007 Nitro SLT completely loaded (with 20" R/T wheels/tires too) from 14mpg - that's right, a SHOTTY 14.4mpg, to 20mpg in the city. I knew it could be done! Just 6mpg to go. While I haven't reached that yet. I have hit 18.3. Still good to me but I will continue my quest. I have a limit I want to invest on this research (~$500) to get that elusive 20mpg in city. Well, funds are limitless but I am setting my cap (hehehe, till I hit it, then it may expand a little :p ).

So far I have installed the following items, although not always the "BEST" brand available, very good. I have listed the items, what I have found to be the "best," and what I installed.

Spark Plugs = E3s are best (only available by special order from their website or Autozone/Adavance Auto/O'Reilly's Auto. $8 plus shipping each). I went with the NGK iridium iX plugs. $7.95 each +tax. Available at most all auto parts stores. NGK iridiums rated to 60,000 miles between changes.

Oil = AMSOIL (only available online or through special dealers - NONE of the typical auto parts stores carries it. $10 p/qt. online + shipping). I went with Mobile 1 Synthetic Extended PERFORMANCE. DO NOT CONFUSE WITH Mobile 1 Synthetic! They are NOT the same. M1SEP is ~$7 p/qt at most all auto parts stores. M1SEP is rated at 15,000 miles between changes. AMSOIL is rated at 25,000 miles between changes and when used in conjunction with their oil filter, they guarantee your engine for, I believe, 1,000,000 miles (1 million) at that change interval. Astounding but I didn't want to wait.

Oil Filter = If going with AMSOIL, go with AMSOIL Oil Filter. I went with K&N HP2009 (HP=High Performance). ONLY USE 100% SYNTH OIL. (The more hours on the engine without it, the worse it could be to make the switch to 100% synth.)

AIR FILTER! = If going with AMSOIL, go with the full package and get their air filter too. I went with K&N 332363. Lifetime filter. Clean every oil change by rinsing with H2O, allowing to dry, and then give a light coating of their special air-filter oil. $55. That's right...$55.00! However, since installed, there was an instant notice in off-the-line 'pep'! (Although, that wasn't my goal.)

I've used only Premium Unleaded over the past 30 days (since I bought it), I've paid between $3.029 and $3.339 p/gallon. As mentioned at the beginning, I have only gotten a horrible-just horrible-14.4mpg! I do NOT "get on it" while driving. I DO JAM loud with the myGig Infinity stereo system, though. :pepper:

:thk:NEVER BUY ANY GASOLINE WITH ETHANOL!!! It DOES NOT help gas mileage (~20% DROP in mpg). It DOES NOT run any cleaner than Premium Unleaded. In fact, I can't find definitive answers yet but have found several reports that, it actually burns LESS cleanly, meaning MORE greenhouse gases.)

After the above improvements, I have better performance PLUS I've hit 18.3mpg but seem to maintain about 17.4mpg. Only 3mpg better. EEK. I feel rest assured that my engine will last longer but I would merely break even on the 9,000 mile comparison (3 normal oil changes). I WANT 20MPG IN THE CITY!!! 6mpg would make it all worth while. Especially in the long run.

After HOURS of research, I have found 3 additional, fairly-affordable things to get that magical "20."

1) in-line airhose vortex creator to better direct the air-flow to the engine. ~$40.
2) Fuel Vaporizer!!!!! :loser1: Simply the best thing you can do to GREATLY increase mileage AND almost completely eliminate ALL greenhouse emissions! If you didn't know, gasoline itself is not flamable. The fumes from the gasoline, however, are. (Remember "flooding" your engine on older cars?) Gasoline is converted to these fumes prior to ignition. The more the liquid is "vaporized," the more efficient the burning of the fuel. (No "flooding" possible because it's all fumes - "vapors".) This should be an easy concept to comprehend. Liquid doesn't burn, it's fumes do! I will install a vaporizer, if it doesn't void the warranty. (I am going to ask the dealer to install it and see if they will keep my warranty valid.) ~$155. I don't know how much for installation. I can't do it myself as I'm no where close to a mechanic.

3) oxygen sensors. If the flow of air and fuel change, at minimum, you will have to reset the computer by disconnecting battery for 15-20 minutes. But think of what the oxygen sensors do. They analyze the fuel/air mixture coming and going. The computer auto-adjusts itself. If I install a vaporizer, I will also replace the oxygen sensors and then reset the computer to start fresh calculations. I am currently looking into the best oxygen sensor that I can buy or even if there is truly a "good," "better," or "best" brand. Any suggestions here would help me.

As you see, my quest WILL :SHOCKED:result in 20mpg in the city! (Or my name ain't Orville Reddenbacher!) If I get close to 20mpg, and virtually eliminate greenhouse gases, and get more 'pep', and extend my engine's life expentancy, then hey, I've done all I could. I should be able to stay right at the $500 mark on investments for my engine and the environment. I will certainly keep posting.

Hope this all helped your quest to get above 14mpg like me.

GOOD LUCK!

- NTroGN

selectkc.com
 

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in the uk they say 12,500 miles 20.000 kilometers type of oil shell helix 5w,40 fully synthetic. they also check oil level about 5 minutes after a fully warmed engine es shut off , ive been driving since 1963 and always check oil level when engine is cold , what do you say /
 
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