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Discussion Starter #1
Won’tengage 4x4, 2wd/4wd switch 4wd light flashes, checked fuses and relays, all good, supply voltage to motor and 4x4 engages but upon restart the transfer case motor goes back to 2wd..........is there a transfer case control module?
Any help would be greatly appreciated
 

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No separate module for transfer case. TIPM (fuse box) controls it. Little hard to understand you. 4wd engages, but when you turn ignition off and back on it is in 2wd mode?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Sorry for the confusion, i powered up the T/Case motor with direct power from the battery, and when the Nitro started up it went back into 2wd,
i hope thats more clear,
and if what you say is true, i must have a broken wire that supplies voltage to the T/Case motorthat engages the 4wd
 

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I'd say the wires are ok, otherwise it would not go back to 2wd mode. Motor/position encoder could be bad or 2/4wd switch which resistor based: resistance between pins 1 and 3 should be 750ohm-2wd, 2700ohm-4wd

edit:
or was it 720ohm-2wd, 2380ohm-4wd, don't remember
 

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Discussion Starter #5
When i rotate the 2wd/4wd switch, the 4wd light comes on and is flashing, and the motor doesn’t do anything.......if i put direct power to the motor, it will engage the 4wd, so would i be right in saying the 2wd/4wd with is faulty then ?
i was also wondering if one of the relays in the TIPM may be faulty........all fuses are good,
 

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It is little bit more complicated. Switch is connected to the cluster, then via computer data lines to the TIPM and motor is hardwired to this. If TIPM doesn't have position feedback from motor, it goes back to 2wd. Someone with proper diagnostic tool has to check where the problem is.
 

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Won’tengage 4x4, 2wd/4wd switch 4wd light flashes, checked fuses and relays, all good, supply voltage to motor and 4x4 engages but upon restart the transfer case motor goes back to 2wd..........is there a transfer case control module?
Any help would be greatly appreciated
Did you fix it?
This happened to me on my 2007 sxt 6 speed.
Turns out, one of the wheel sensors was broken in half. It was 20$ at Autozone. I got lucky that the first one I tested just happened to be the faulty one. This job took longer to get my tools out than to swap the sensor.
 

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just depends on the quality of the scanner....if there is an actual code....check engine light etc it most should atleast tell you the code. anything beyond that you need a decent scanner to decipher more
 

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Hey, will a scan tool pick that fault up or dos it need to go to the dealership
I
Hey, will a scan tool pick that fault up or dos it need to go to the dealership
I don’t know, but if u jack up the wheel you can test each sensor with a multimeter. I don’t go to stealerships. Lol
There are a ton of videos on YouTube on how to rest an abs wheel sensor.
The 4 wheel drive won’t engage if a sensor is faulty.
 

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You can not test nitros' speed sensors with multimeter. They are no ordinary sensors. Even with scope it is impossible.
 

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You can not test nitros' speed sensors with multimeter. They are no ordinary sensors. Even with scope it is impossible.
Are you saying you can’t connect it to AC function on a multimeter and spin the wheels to see if it gives a current? That seems odd to me, but I’ve never done it. My faulty sensor was literally broken in half so it was obvious which one was bad.
 

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Yes, it is not inductive type sensor. More like switch, that is constantly feed by abs control unit and output changes from lets say 12.0v to 11.95v (not correct numbers).
So, basically you can use scope to see fluctiontions, but never be sure, that its correct.
 

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I have a small scanner that gives me live data on each wheel speed. The one that reads 0 is the bad one. LOL
It will not tell me if it is a sensor fault, wire fault, or tone ring fault, but at least it narrows it down.
 

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Guys without scanner, but are good with computers can log CAN bus directly. I've logged and collected some info.
 

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Are you saying you can’t connect it to AC function on a multimeter and spin the wheels to see if it gives a current? That seems odd to me, but I’ve never done it. My faulty sensor was literally broken in half so it was obvious which one was bad.
the signal given from the WSS is in square wave form, so can't be read with a multimeter, but with a good multimeter you can check the ohms resistance of the WSS and find which one is faulty.
 

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Yes, it is not inductive type sensor. More like switch, that is constantly feed by abs control unit and output changes from lets say 12.0v to 11.95v (not correct numbers).
So, basically you can use scope to see fluctiontions, but never be sure, that its correct.
I figured if it showed a signal it works. If no signal at all replace it.
It’s keeping it simple.
It’s a start. Mine that went bad was broken in half inside it’s housing. No signal. Lol
Not the best way, but anyone can do it for free in the driveway. You might get lucky.
 
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